i'd say proper headwork (porting & match porting manifolds, cc'ing, radiusing, triple angle cuts etc) standard valves, heavier springs, and then top it off with a day of good tuning.
i was told that it's a good idea to put higher pressure springs in. Especially with the N/A head. As the more boost you run the more pressure is on the spring to hold the inlet valve in its seat. I'm going to put heavier springs in. The last thing i want is to have to pull the head off again cos of valve bounce or leaking from 20psi boost that's being fed in! And for $300 or so i think it's a good idea. There is some rule... for ever 1psi of boost you feed in you need 2psi extra in spring pressure... i can't remember exactly what it is.
where did you get harmonic balancer from? and how much are we talking?
they are hard to find second hand?
and what's the difference between the RB20, RB25, RB26 and RB30 harmonic balancers?
i didn't have to make up brackets for power steering, and there is provision for the oil return line, you might just have to drill and tap the hole... no big deal
it will probably cost $150 to ship it to WA from QLD...
cost me $120 to send one from melbourne to Sydney, and that was only for the block, sump, water and oil pump... no pistons or rods.
http://www.focal.tm.fr/gb/car/archives/pol...olyflex/27h.htm
High quality French made subwoofer... brand new in the box. It's a good size for cars with tight boot space. Not the sort of sub you'll find at JB-HiFi
$380 ono
Cheers,
Andrew
nope.... it's pretty straight forward, you just need to setup an oil feed for the Variable Cam Timing (if you want to use it). Check out the RB30 Conversion Thread....
I took my car to an Exhaust Place, not the actual EPA testing place. The guy that did the inspection didn't worry about the Pod filter or BOV (my bov is hidden in the front bumper). Never done the steel wool in the muffler trick. I'm gonna get a center pipe made up that's full of resonators/mufflers that i use just for when i get EPA'd (cos my new exhaust is gonna be loud). If your only gonna keep the car for a year then it's probably not worth it, but it's an option.
sweet as... so what did you rebuild it with? And what gear box is it running?
Also i can't get to ya website... say its not found, dunno if it's just me (on Bigpond Cable)
sam, who actually owns the GTST? you or benny? or someone else?
it's a weapon... i remember seeing those two big bird shredders on it... there was an old guy with a nice R33 GTST with one of the 2835R's and he was running low 12's... that Endless weapon should nail 11's for sure in no time...
I might drop in tomorrow and check out ya new place, i have to go to Epping to have my exhaust changed so i can pass an EPA test so i'll swing past on the way back!
Andrew
you can use the standard nissan head gasket if the block is O-Ringed. I like the idea of 9:1 CR as it means a good power curve and better off boost drivability. I spose if you have forged pistons and rods you can have high CR (or at least stock 9:1) and high boost 1.2bar +
Yeah... and the 800 page R32 GTR one is about $500+ too!!!
I'll have a look through it and might get it printed... gotta love mates who work in a printing office
yeah i'm downloading it now.... but only at 15kB/s
I thought about buying the R33 Service Manual. I think there is an R32 Service Manual as well as an R32 GTR Service Manual. So i'm tipping there will be 2 books for each model skyline. One for the GTR and one for the rest.
yeah i'd go, but i have a job i have to do at 8pm... probably only for an hour or so, but by the time i get there it will probably be too late.
My mate is taking his red Ford GT-P, not a bad car, it's been to Herrods so has 320+kw now.
I live too far away in Camberwell
just out of curiosity, and if you don't mind me asking... how much did you get for the 1JZ-GTE 5sp gearbox? I have a mate with a soarer who is looking for one and he has no idea how much they go for...
Thanks
Andrew