GiJOr33

shit... i was looking for one of these!!! didn't take long to sell it!

oh ok... must be a PFC-FCON then, as the FCONV needs a laptop and the software... that's the hard bit, no one has the software!

yeah.... AFM's are the most accurate way of measuring, so youdo get better fuel economy, and there are some cars with good horse power still using AFM's.... I have MAP, and it's not bad, a bit rougher than the AFM, but it's all good

hardly anyone in melbourne can tune the fconv. I think the only mob is in sydney, BD4's i think

yeah... the Air Flow Meter is before the turbo compresses the air, so you need to place the bov between the turbo and the throttle body. The cars that plumb the BOV back into the inlet does so AFTER the airflow meter, but before the turbo. So the air has already been measured by the AFM, and is just fed back inbefore the turbo to be recompressed. As it vents through the turbo it uncompresses. Some say that feeding the BOV back into the inlet just before the turbo helps to keep it spinning, this maybe so if the air is directed towards the turbo. Although for most people the BOV is there cos they like the sound

FCONV... needs a tune though

I can't get to that site... goes to the msn search thing. I also logged into autospeed and tried typing in the url after and still no good...

fsck... i just wrote a big post and clicked the back button... so it's gone. Anyway, i reckon i'm right as that's what i've been told by plenty of people before i had a stock skyline with exhaust/atmo venting bov and it blew black smoke on gear changes, and my current skyline has an aftermarket computer with a MAP sensor (so no more Air Flow Meter) and it no longer does it. Andrew

i'm just telling you what i've learned too from reading the forum. I'm not saying i'm 100% right. I thought air/fuel ratios are controlled by setting them up with ya laptop on the dyno. And that the O2 sensor is utilised in the warm up stage (as it's not a wideband O2 sensor) so that the ecu reads a hi/low signal (not sure which) so it can add more fuel while the car warms up. Once it's warm it switches back to what the ecu is programmed to do. That's why when you get an A/F Ratio guage from Autobahn they either read full red, or full green... never in between unless you have a wide band O2 sensor I understand that the factory ECU is a learning computer, but it can only just things a certain amount, taking things like EGT sensor, TPS, and rev/speed history into account as it's designed specifically for that car with the idea that it will remain standard so the a/f ratios are programmed into the computer. I could be wrong, but if you've got a link i can read about your thoughts/experiences that would be sweet. Cheers, Andrew

have you got pics of the handset? i'd be interested to see what it looks like as i thought the fconv was only tuned by a laptop... if it's no trouble, can you e-mail them to me at andrew @ sunriseservices.com.au as if it is suitable to me i'll make you an offer for the handset Cheers, Andrew

and aren't most O2 sensors either hi/low reading??? used mostly for the warm up period? wouldn't you'd need a wide band O2 sensor to read the air/fuel mixes properly... and as these are expensive i wouldn't have thought they'd be a factory item.

But what about the Air Flow Meter? you didn't mention that... and if that plays no part in it, why do we have them?!?! And why is it that when you see a turbo car with an atmo BOV racing, it blows black smoke on the gear changes? If the air that is already measured by the air flow meter and the signal is then passed on to the ECU so it can inject the right amount of fuel, then when the air is not there to burn with the fuel as it's been vented, then you'd expect more fuel/less air... richer mixture for that point. Maybe like you say the computer stops the fuel being inject the instant the throttle is closed, but what about the air that was measured before the it was closed? Andrew

yes... do tell!!!

Are they 256 PROCAMS for both inlet and exhaust?

Check out this thread dude... maybe you have this problem if your car stalls when you jump off the gas and onto the brakes. Something to do with the fuel pump ground wire... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=408 Cheers, Andrew

yeah i'm interested to know about the computer too... is it the PFC-FCON, FCONV Pro, or VPC??? or something else?

he was talking about running decent boost, 1.1bar+, not just ya stock. i was told that for ever 1psi increase of boost , you should have an increase of 3psi of valve spring pressure... the guy i spoke do didn't say i need to spend $2000, i'm just saying that i personally don't want to spend $2000, if it will only give me a few kw gain over spending $1000. He said that once i decide what i'm after he'll be able to tell me what i should get done, and what i can expect from that. They have a flow bench to test the work is done properly. i was just looking to see what other people have had done and how much it cost them

me too... andrew@ sunriseservices.com.au

go the 0.84 A/R... cos the feeling of the car when it just keeps pulling hard all the time is awesome! my old skyline fell off in the top revs and it loses the excitement... my new skyline is AWESOME!!!! and i think i have a large exhaust A/R (not exactly sure) and a 0.70 A/R Compressor. Much fun to be had!!!

just bringing up this old thread again... i am about to drop the head in for some work. I was told that with increased boost you need stronger valve springs as the pressure from the turbo is trying to open the valves. (that's on the inlet side) This is what i have been told to get done. Port inlet and exhausts ports Taper valve guide protrusion into ports Triple angle cut the valve seats Match the combustion chambers so that all 6 are exactly the same volume Match the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold to the ports Flow bench to check results As i'm not chasing 800hp, i don't see the point in spending $2000 on head work if it's only gonna get me 30kw more than a $1000 job. I'm not too cluey on cylinder heads so i don't know what benefit each modification yields. Has anyone had similar work done on their cylinder head and what was the cost? Thanks Andrew

looks pretty sweet from what i've seen... and with all the guages i have in my car as well as a profec b spec 1, i don't think it would be worth it for me to pull everything out for a new boost controller...

Just wondering what you think of it, and how it sounds. Any chance of a sound recording of it? I'm either thinking of getting the Tanabe or the HKS Hiper. I've already got a sound file of the Hiper on an R33 GTS25t... so am chasing the Tanabe. Cheers, Andrew

no... cos it has a different type of plenum. It's not a front feed

but it will run out of puff at 5000rpm!!! and you've still got 2500rpm to play with!

aaaahhhhh.... i was thinking that the first 4 cylinders were using up most of the air in the plenum before it reached the back 2. What must be happening is that the velocity of the air means if flows fast enough so that most of it hits the back of the plenum, meaning cylinder 5 and 6 get the most air and run lean.