GiJOr33

yeah i figured that i'm not going to be changing it very often so why not pay the extra $50 over the cost of other oils. Everyone that uses it says it's great so that's a good enough reason for me. The only thing i hear people whinge about it is the price. I have light weight and think it's pretty good. Andrew

nah sorry dude...

sh!t i totally forgot about this thread!!! I sent a message to the person interested a while back and never heard back so it's yours if you want! send me an email if you like, asuggars at homail.com

bump

- Exterior/Engine 92,000km's - Condition of car reflects km's (I don't suspect it's been wound back but you can never say for sure) 5sp Manual 222kw at the wheels at ~9psi 650hp HKS Turbo HKS 45mm Wastegate Tuned Length Exhaust Manifold Custom 3.5" Dump Pipe Hi-Flow Cat Dump pipe back 3" Exhast HKS Super Powerflow Airfilter on 100mm Inlet Pipe Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller HKS PFC-FCON Fuel Controller HKS FCONV Fuel and Ignition Computer HKS VPC Air Controller (No need for Air Flow Meter) ARC Front Mount Intercooler OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch (replaced Thrust Bearing too) GTR Fuel Pump Cusco Oil Catch Can Potenza Suspension Gold 18" Advan Model 7 Wheels Back - 18" 255/40 90% Michelin Tyres Front - 18" 235/40 Tyres on the front (soon to be replaced) Timing Belt, all other belts, filters and fluids were changed at 89,000 Motul Engine Oil is used and changed every 5000km's along with Oil Filter Redline Lightweight Shockproof Oil is used in the Gearbox which I have changed twice - Interior/Exterior Factory Electric Sunroof Tinted Windows Darkest Legal F1 Grade Tint Car alarm/4pt immobiliser/keyless entry. Fitted by Mercedes Benz, worth $800+ Greddy Electronic Boost Gauge HKS Turbo Timer Omori Electronic Exhaust Temp Gauge Omori Electronic Oil Temp Gauge Omori Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge Nardi Leather Sports Steering Wheel Alpine CVA-1000E TV Headunit Alpine ERA-G100 Graphic Equalizer Alpine TUE-011A TV Tuner Pioneer Front and Rear Speakers All Car Mats Modified Type M Front Bar for increased flow to the Intercooler GTR Side Skirts (I think) Wide GTR Rear Spoiler with working Brake Light - Recommendations All that's required to make this car a 300+kw weapon is a set of bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump. You'd be looking at about $1400 for a 40% increase over the current power levels. - Other Info I imported this car from Japan through a broker and I still have all the paperwork. This car was marked as Grade 4 condition wise but gets marked something else because of the modifications. The car was off the road for 9 months with a blown motor as an injector crapped out and the engine detonated. I had stock ones cleaned and fitted. I pulled out the engine and replaced it with a recently rebuilt RB25 and while that was happening I sent the turbo off to GCG to be assessed, all checked out good. The car was then tuned on the dyno and checked to make sure everything is ok and working properly. The car has been fantastic since. Selling due to Overseas Commitments Located in Melbourne Inner East $25,500ono -- Cheers, Andrew

What's the difference between your one and this one, 22670-RR580?

i think you'll need the flywheel unless you have another OS Giken Flywheel that will suit the rest of the clutch kit. I have one of these clutches... the best mod to my car, love it!

you suggested close the gaps more... but what is the detriment to performance? i mean surely closing the gap has to hinder it somewhere otherwise all cars would have an 0.5mm gap.

I was just wondering what affect changing the spark plug gap has on performance? I mean if you're getting a miss fire then you gap the plug smaller so as to reduce the resistance against the spark. Why not just leave it small to begin with? What's the advantage of a bigger spark. I've heard that you get a better burn, but once the fuel/air mix is lit then surely the burn is the same (fuel type dependent). The reason i ask is because i had to gap my plugs down a little to get rid of a slight missfire under boost. What can you do to allow the spark plug gap to be big but no miss fire? Is there anything that can be done apart from an ignition amplifier? Cheers, Andrew

Igniter is still available, wiring loom is pretty much sold (but nothing is sold till goods and $$ change hands).

i've pm'd and got no answer...

My skyline had ridiculous tint on the back and rear quarters. I couldn't see out at night so i had it removed and have got the F1 tint now, 35%... not dark enough. My Verada has some non F1 tint that's pimp style from the outside and you can still see out at night (although harder to see than the skyline). I wouldn't get F1 again... i got it for $200 (through a mate's work)... but for the normal price it costs i reckon it's a rip. Andrew

yeah i wouldn't mind a PM of who it was as well cos i've had some dodgy work done on my car in the last 3 months. I've had an engine being built for the last 12 months. Things pop up that take time to sort out. Being a race engine builder means they probably race cars so that takes up a bit of time too... I just hope they don't forget who the engine belongs to and i end up getting it!!! lol

$15 and it's yours.

I'd appreciate the R33 one if anyone has it hosted. Thanks Andrew

what's the site address? Thanks Andrew

Used for 15km's, wrong temp for my car. These would suit a stock or midly modified skyline. $95 for the set of 6 Cheers, Andrew

my tail lights already only light up just the outside ones... have done so since i bought the car 2 years ago. I'm not 100% sure if it's legal so just wanted to see if there was a way i could turn them back on easily if need be. I presume it would be legal as there is a fully functioning set of tail lights and brake lights, but i'm not sure if the lights from the factory must all be lit up as designed. I think i might just have to daisy chain the two inside ones together and then put the switches in there... all sounds like too much effort though and i'll probably end up leaving it the way it is!

yeah they are just two ideas that i came up with for the possible wiring. I'm kind of after confirmation as to which one it is and ideas on doing what i'm after. A daisy chain is where one globe is linked to the next and the next but not in series... still a parallel circuit. Just means you don't have to run 4 separate wires, you can just run one bigger wire and splice into it for each globe filament Cheers, Andrew

Hi Guys, Just wondering how the tail lights are wired up. In the picture i've attached i've drawn the ways i think it might be wired. The first set has the power for all four of the tail lights all daisy chained from one power location for each of the filaments and all sharing the same earth The second set has each pair daisy chained to together but then going to the power location separately to the other pair. I understand they both get power ultimately from the same source, either the brake switch or the tail/headlight switch. I'm working on a little electrical project and what i'd like to do is be able to cut the power to the two inside lights of each pair. I tried this by cutting the earth for the two center lights but what happens is the tail lights still come on, when i press the brake light this also lights up the tail light filament. If the tail lights are turned on and i press the brake then the filament goes off. The brake filament doesn't light up at all. I'd like to be able to enable or disable the center tail lights and leave the outside ones working only. What i was thinking of doing was cutting the power to the tail light filament and the brake filament individually and putting a switch in. The only problem is i will need 4 switches. Two for the tail light filament and two for the brake light filament. Ideally 1 switch would be good but will probably have to go with 2 switches. Maybe i could daisy chain the two tail light wires together and the two brake light wires together and then put one switch in each of their power lines... i dunno Hopefully someone can understand what i'm crapping on about... so if ya can, shed some ideas! Or if you have the wiring diagram of the tail lights that would be even better as i could then see the entire path of where the wires go and decide on a point of interception Thanks Andrew

well that's it, i just wanted to get the wheels aligned so the current tyres don't wear out to the belts in 2 weeks and thought $20 would do it!

Yep, get the lightweight, cost ya about $110. If you car is pretty much used as a weekend toy and always gets kaned, maybe look at heavy weight. I have lightweight, gearbox was a little notchy and it's better now. It takes about 750-1000km's before it really does it's job well.

Hey guys... my R33 is savagely wearing the inside of my front tyres. Just wondering how much a wheel alignment is? I thought it was around $30, but i called up and they said $88 for a 4 wheel alignment as it has HICAS. I was also told that if i was looking at putting new tyres on then i should do that before having it aligned but i thought they aligned the wheels not the tyres and it wouldn't make a difference if i had old tyres or brand new ones. Basically what i'd like to find out is if i can just get the fronts aligned, do i need to do it after getting new tyres, and what can i expect to pay? also where is the best place to get it done? Cheers, Andrew

no peers etc left on bit torrent

what does the VVT switch wire look like (colour and location)? i presume it does as the head that it was connected to has VVT. Injectors are standard RB25DE injectors. I presume they will be the same as RB25DET but just flow a bit less, so side feeds. Cheers, Andrew