GiJOr33

My car has been sitting around for the last 6 months on the same half tank of fuel. Just wondering if it goes stale or if i can do the first 200km of driving the car with that fuel (ie no boost). I have to take the car for a bit of a run to make sure everything is in check before i get it tuned, so i was just going to use up the last bit of that fuel and then fill up fresh before the tune up. Any thoughts? Oh, it is BP Ultimate fuel. Cheers, Andrew

bugger... i missed that... repost has been deleted. When i posted it i got a zero post size error so I posted it again and didn't read what i wrote. it was $32... a rip!

yeah what a rip... Well i get home jack up the car and dad brings out this can that has a pipe with a 'tap' on it... you put the bike pump on one side and pump it up and it forces the oil out of the can through the pipe with the tap on it... anyway i'm under the car and dad is pumping. The first litre goes in fine so i fill up the can again and back under the car i go... i said pump a little more but not too much... what does he do?? gives it about 10 quick pumps and blows the hose off the can... so my $32 oil is flowing all over the road and there is nothing i can do about it but get covered in it as I try to get the pipe back on the can. Consequently there is not enough oil in the gearbox so now i have to find someone that has more oil, spend another $30 and do it again tomorrow. I cracked it at him and he then cracks it back at me and said it was my fault for telling him to pump it... Not happy about it!

yeah... what a rip!!! well i got the gearbox oil in... but there is a little story behind it now. Dad has this bottle that has a pipe in the top with a tap on it (so you can control flow) and a air valve in the top next to where the pipe goes into the bottle... you put the oil in the can, pump it up and the air pressure in the can forces the oil out the pipe with the tap in it. Well i was under the car controlling the flow and dad is pumping up the bottle. The first litre goes in fine so i empty the second bottle in. Under the car i go again and dad pumps it up a bit... it's flowing nicely... i said pump it a little more but not too much... so what does he do? pumps it 10 times and the pressure blows the pipe off the bottle... so my $30 geabox oil is spraying all over the road and there's nothing i can do about it but try and get the pipe back on the bottle as i get hosed in green oil. Consequently i now don't have enough in the gearbox so i have to find someone else in melbourne that has Redline and i have to do it all over again tomorrow and piss away another $30. Not happy about that at all

Well i went to get some gear oil, called them up first and they said $50 for 1L... ended up they were quoting me for engine oil... so i specified that i wanted Redline Lightweight Shockproof Geabox Oil... made sure he understood, and he then said $25.25 so that sounded better... then he corrected himself again and said it was actually $20.25. So i said i'll take two 1L bottles and i'm coming to get it now (only neede 2 for a top up after spillage when gearbox was removed)... i get there, paid for parking, and he then says he made a mistake and it was actually $33 per litre... wouldn't budge on price when i told him everywhere else was $28... dirty biatch. If i hadn't needed it that badly i would have told him to kiss it and got it from somewhere else when more stock arrived. And the fact that i'd driven all that way and paid for parking!!! This better be good oil... otherwise i'll be going to VMX80 next time at $9 per 1L

it's a blow off valve... sits just before the throttle body on the R33 inlet pipe. It has some pipe that comes off the outlet and goes back in down near the air filter before the turbo, but after the air flow meter. It also has a small hose that goes to the inlet plenum that opens the valve when you take your foot off the accellerator

exactly... i think if you are building a specific engine it's a good idea to buy a second engine and build that up so that you can still drive your car. Then once the engine build is finished you can pull out your current working engine and fit the new one. Then you just sell your complete engine to get your money back on the initial purchase of the one you just built up!

so his exa didn't have a bov either? interesting that nissan would put a bov on the ET but not the exa... as for the flutter sound, i would be a little warey about trying to get it. It slows your turbo down so it has to build boost again after the gear change. Especially bad with a bigger turbo so perhaps not so much of an issue with the stock one.

yes... set backs are the bain of engine building. A lot of it on supply of parts. You can wait 2 months for some rod bolts only to find they sent you the wrong ones and you have to wait another 3 months for more to be made and sent from the USA.

Possibly... but the pipe from the turbo to the inlet looked factory. It was the start of my car hobby so wasn't as switched on about the ins and outs of turbo cars as i am now. But i never saw anything that looked like a bov. Mine was a 1984 model... perhaps they put them on the later models.

my old pulsar exa didn't have a bov stock, and that's the same engine as the ET. straight from the turbo to the throttle body, no I/C

and is it for GTR, GTST, R32,33,34?

Thanks for the link Jimbo2000... if only i'd checked the forums earlier today!!! Oh well I'll go to box hill first thing in the morning. Hopefully i'll get the car tuned tomorrow or wednesday lwells... i had a little crunch from 1st to 2nd as well before i put in the short shifter. I then had redline installed and the crunch went away. I then put in the C's short shifter kit and there is still no crunch. I think it's just a slightly warn gearbox that will give some crunchies when cold.

Yeah i have a short shifter kit, but i haven't driven the car for 6 months so can't really tell you anything about it!!! Once it's back on the road i'm gonna try and clock up 1000km's in the first week. Then i'll be able to tell you about it.

yeah i should have mentioned the price for the two Castrol ones was from Autobarn.

well the lightweight was about $110 or so to fill the gearbox (around the 4lt mark). VMX80 is $9/lt and Syntrax is $24/lt (close to redline pricing)

Yeah i think i'm just going to top up my Redline. The engine had to come out and they spilled some oil from the gearbox. I've hardly done any km's on that gearbox oil. Only problem is Oil World have sold out here in Melbourne so i can't get any till Tuesday! I'm going to put Motul 4100 Turbolight in the engine too... see how that goes.

I've searched the forums and saw many varying views on the different oils for the manual gearbox from a fair while ago. Just wondering what you guys think after a few km's on the gearbox oil you selected and why you think it's good or bad. These are the 3 oils i'm looking at using: Castrol Syntrax - 75w90 Castrol VMX80 - 75w80 Redline Lightweight - 75W140 I currently have Redline Lightweight in my gearbox. I don't think i've done enough km's for it to "wear in" as i've read in other threads that it does. I had the gearbox out and spilled some of the oil out so am not sure whether to get more redline and top it up or change it out for one of the castrol oils. Post up your experiences! And if anyone knows where i can get some Redline Lightweight Shockproof in Melbourne today (pref over the eastern side) that would be sweet as Oil World has sold out Andrew

fantastic... thanks HEAPS for that maximajim!!! i'm almost finished! Just got the timing to do and put the radiator and other stuff at the front back together! Hopefully if it doesn't rain today i'll have her fired up! i said this in another thread but i'll say it again... You are all champions... i love this forum!!! It's full of knowledge and helpful people!!!

ok thanks... so for pic 5 they are just mounting points? i thought they might have been earth points but couldn't see anything to plug into it. pic 1 goes to the unit just after the uni joint on the steering column. I'll check to see it it's mounted to the crossmember. pic 2 and 3, i found those points just before reading this post. But i put the earth onto the back of the alternator where another earth of similar size is located. Should i move it to the chassis rail? (don't want any earth loops) thanks for the tip on the fuel lines Jaws - thanks heaps for the timing guide! Also do you guys know which part of the wastegate goes to which bit of the boost controller? my little lables fell off!!! I've got a HKS wastegate which has a vacuum pipe on the top and another one on the side. I've got a Greddy ProfecB boost controller. You are all champions... i love this forum!!! It's full of knowledge and helpful people!!!

shite... sorry, i should have put that info in the first post. Open a rar file with winrar. I have zipped it too for those that don't have winrar installed. http://users.bigpond.net.au/sunriseservices/photos.zip It's in an R33 Skyline GTST and it's an RB25DET. Also any tips on setting up cam timing? I've got the cam belt with the white marks on them. I've set the crank to TDC (is that the 1st Red mark on the harmonic balancer) and the cams to their correct marks. Then i put the belt on with the white marks lining up with the notches on each cam gear. I think i have it all correct but would just like confirmation to make sure i don't go bending valves! How do i know if cylinder 1 is TDC and not on the top of the exhaust stroke? Thanks Andrew

Hi guys, Just had a new engine fitted to the car and am now plugging in all the wiring. There are a few things i'm not sure where they go. Also the fuel line, not sure which is meant to be plugged into which spot. I've attached some photo's which i've annotated so you can see what i need a hand with. It's a 650kb download. http://users.bigpond.net.au/sunriseservices/photos.rar I'd appreciate any help from those with the knowledge or who can look it up in their workshop manual!!! I think i should have bought one before starting this quest!!! Thanks Andrew P.S. if this is a duplicate post it's cos the last one buggered up when submitting and wouldn't appear for me...

well my engine is going in tonight so tomorrow i'll hook up all the bits on the top and hopefully turn the key and it will start!!! if you have a scanned image of the head and where all the vacuum and fuel hoses go that would be sweet!!!

Yeah not too big... but i think a 2835R turbo would be a damn good match for an RB25. Big enough to give good flow and power, and small enough so that boost comes on early enough to use it on the street. The 3040 turbo's are good too... better for slight modded RB25's like forged pistons as you can then run some higher boost and get some good power out of it. I don't know what the HKS 2835R or HKS 3040 would compare to in the Garret range (even though the HKS turbos are based on Garret) as i dont know too much about garret turbo's!

If i was going a 3037 or higher i would probably get a manifold made up and use an external wastegate.