GiJOr33

You have to take into account the stroke of the engine. The 3.0lt sucks in more air/fuel so when the piston comes up into the combustion chamber with the RB25 head on it there is more air/fuel being squeezed into the same space as before so you get a higher compression ratio. I think that's how it works but am not 100% sure. You also need to take into account the size of the combustion chamber too, cos if it gets bigger by putting the RB25 head on the RB30 then the compression ratio drops so you'll need pistons that have a dome in them to take up some of the space and bring the size of the combustion chamber down and the compression ratio up.

so the RB25DET oil pump isn't as good as the RB30ET pump??? i wouldn't have thought that as it also has to power oil squirters and VCT in the head... as well as the turbo supply.

is that 345mm all round? anyone got any pics of an R33 GTST with 18" wheels lowered to 345mm all round, and also 355mm all round too. I've got 255/40/18" rubber on the back, will 345mm be too low? Sorry for the questions, if i have any more i'll PM them to you. Just thought others might be wondering the same thing. Thanks in advance Andrew

what height does this make the car? I'm after the distance between the center of the wheel to the guard. Thanks dude Andrew

yeah i'm interested in the rear bar too... have you sent out pictures yet? plz post up! Cheers, Andrew

so fill up halfway with normal, do a dyno run, then chuck some toluene in and go down and fill up full, and drive back and do another run.

yeah it does look good... boost at 3000rpm full boost at 4000rpm or so and just over 650kw to match! That would be sweet on a 3.1lt you'd probably have full boost by 3200rpm and a nice fat power/torque curve to 7500rpm

yeah there is still the two theories of whether it's better to baby it for the first few 100km's or just rip into it right from the start. I'm not gonna do either i think... i'll load it up, but i won't rev it too hard for too long or screw in too much boost. Also no constant revs (freeway driving)

can you get bigger than 80mm ones? I'm tipping he means outlet pipe

Castrol Formula R is good... the 10w60, and the Valvoline SynPower 10w30 is meant to be ok as well. Both about $75 for 5L

Skyrine-Dave - if you have standard RB25DET pistons let me know cos i'm looking for a set to get my skyline up and running again.

MattR, how much are you asking? is there any difference between RB26 pistons and RB25 pistons?

cool well i'll wait to see who else has some before i go ahead with it. Thanks in advance though

i'm gonna double check tomorrow and post back, i think it's only 5 of them. I have a feeling No4 is ok

I'm still looking for these...

my memory is too sh!t to remember a Zoom article verbatim... hehe

awesome... thanks dude!

yeah the 2530's do seem popular with a lot of twin turbo cars, like the 300ZX TT (which is 3.0lt) and the Soarer 2.5TT. You can't go wrong with the HKS setup, it's tried and true. But at the same time, don't discount the later released turbos from other brands. I too have heard the Apexi's spool up very quickly from a mate who had one on his R33 GTST, but i don't know what they are like in the topend.

Just wondering if there is anywhere that you guys recommend i get a set of rings from? I was thinking just calling up nissan but thought i'd check to see if anyone has better contacts to get a set of rings cheaper. Also wondering what sort of price i'd be looking at. Cheers, Andrew

I'm sure with all the upgrades to Forged Pistons that are being posted on the forums, there's bound to be a few sets of standard pistons floating around. Let me know what you have and how much you are asking I'm located in Melbourne. Cheers, Andrew

it's a HKS ball bearing turbo. It will probably do 1.7bar easily. HKS turbos are known for having high efficiency ranges, so when it's at 1.5 bar say it works the best. But on a bigger engine you might be trying to put too much exhaust gas through the exhaust housing in the higher revs so the power will drop off. Give it a go on the dyno... just tune it to what power you want if you have all the support systems to go with it! When i say whatever power you want i mean that the turbo will allow, a 2510 won't net you 500hp no matter how much boost you screw through it!!!!

VVT and not using it... If you don't want to use VVT (cam gear, or just don't want to hook it up) do you need to leave the big thing on the front of it? because when i undid the 4 little bolts oil came out, then when i undid the big bolt in it more came out. So i presume that if you decide to leave that bit off then you are going to have oil leaking out. So if you have a VVT head, what do you need to do if you don't want to use the VVT? We've discussed how to hook it up, but we've never discussed how to disable it. And also what head bolts do you use? do the normal RB25 head bolts fit?

expensive to put on the rear guards though wouldn't it? Cos they'd have to car and reweld them on and then repaint it too. They have a lead section where the guard joins the roof so if there is an accident they can just unweld where the lead section is and put a new one in. Pretty good idea! I like the gpsports body kit.

well i've gotta take some happy snaps of the pistons so i can email them to someone who knows better. But just looking at them and from my own experience i'd say they a fooked

hehe... you were right. I got it off. It's funny, i would have thought that to undo the bolt you would do it the same way as the rotating part, otherwise it can undo itself while rotating. As the cam turns clockwise, that's the way i would assume to undo the bolt. I'm pretty sure that you undo the crank bolt clockwise. Oh well... it's off now, and i think my pistons a buggered Gotta check the head tomorrow for burnt valves... i think too much boost and not enough tuning was the cause!