CrimsonLey

I'm not trying to thread steal. I understand that you are in Nissan worker but my Japanese friend is an importer/exporter out of Osaka. I can almost guarantee that he has the best prices on BNIB OEM items. Maybe he can help you get the items you need from JP

I bought VSPEC outlet pipes when I did the EGT install on my BNR32... To each his own

Can stock RB26 bits fit in there or do I need to buy all new components?

Adam, I'm interested to see what you come up with. I'm interested in the same IC for my BNR32. Problem is that the GTR is setup for a single entry charge pipe so I'm curious to see how two entry pipes will work for the GTR.

Why'd you guys suddenly stop talking? Good read here. Those N1s still in Oz? I've been seriously thinking about picking up a BNR32 N1 with intention to drive quickly.

Have you tried Americans living in Japan? Or checked for in Canada? You're asking for a big favor from the Australians. Frankly, you sound like a kid: Damn, USA dealerships won't get me my bumper and I don't wanna wait. Move to Oz if you want JDMs and better access to Aussie goods. Solved.

Nick, that sounds exactly how my car us currently acting. Unfortunately, I won't get to take it to a skilled tuner until much later

I seriously doubt it's my wideband because it's brand new. I was paying with it while I was installing it because I thought it wasn't working. I'll check them.

I think that's what he meant: "your gauge us shit." Let me ask you guys something, is it possible to go on a 4-5 hour road trip in the current state my car is in? I have to drop off my vehicle at a friends place that's quite far

Thanks for the clarification, Hadouken. If the spark plugs are filled with fuel, wouldn't that indicate a "rich" car? Ido, I don't have the stock ECU any longer. Is it possible to but a used one from the auctions and still have it work on my car?

Threads like this one are the reason why I keep coming back to SAU. I have a late model BNCR33 engine in my early edition BNR32. I installed an AEM wideband and it's constantly reading rich (14+). A couple of weeks ago, I checked the spark plugs and they were very filthy with fuel. I tried my best to clean them but a friend said I should completely replace them. I'm planning on doing that but I want to find out why my GTR is running so rich. I think I tracked the problem to my O2 sensors via a mechanic that was doing some different work on my car. I have BNR34 VSpec dumps with BCNR33 O2 sensors installed on my BNR32 Skyline. I also have a Mine's ECU that's in need of a tune or change. :-( Do you guys think that using a stock ECU and/or changing to BNR32 O2 sensors will improve my fuel economy?

Can't see where you're located but I asked NISMO about the seats and they told me that only a NISMO tech can install them. I guess they said that per warranty,etc. I really wanted to do this but I'm set on removing and storing my seats so I install carbon seats

You tried the link I posted for the files? I just installed this last week so I know the files work. You'll need to download MagicDisc, at least 1 2010 file, install via the setup file (I used windows 2k setup), decompress all the letter files into sub directories of the main FAST directory (i.e. c:\fast\A2), edit the NFS.EXE file to point to the sub directories where you decompressed the files, then start the program.

I'm also looking for a full length for my 32-R. I want the best cooling panel (air diversion) possible. I believe the full length ones to be the best for R32s per the design of the airbox/snorkel. Siebon carbon also makes a full length panel for BNR32s.

I decided go back to stock on my BNR32. I have a friend that has a 1990 BNR32 and he's willing to switch out parts with me. I currently have some sort of "M's" pod K&N filer setup: I want to trade out with my mate's stock box: Do the MAFs look different in size? I don't see the RED part on mine so I'm not sure if I can do a straight swap without ECU tuning. However, these are relatively old pix so I'll open my hood tomorrow and take a peek at my MAFs. BTW, I'm currently running a MINE's ECU which is in crazy need of a tune. Do you guys think I can trade parts and still drive around without tuning? Also, I checked my Nissan FAST and what are parts: 16577 and 16580T (BOTTOM-LEFT)? FAST says "DUCT ASSY-AIR" for 16577. Doesn't look like theres an opening that allows air to be sucked-in. Isn't that part right below the headlight that intakes the outside air? FAST says "RESONATOR ASSY" for 16580T. What's the purpose of resonating the stock airbox and do I really need it? Thanks.

Any success getting the rotors/discs off? I found this thread with good info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/97404-r32-stuck-trying-to-remove-rear-rotor/ When I removed the front rotors/pads, I was told to make sure to break-in the pads (i.e. drive real fast - brake hard, ride the brakes for 5-10 seconds, blah blah blah). Is there a procedure for breaking in rear pads or can I simply install new discs/pads and ride to work the next day?

Any update on the shroud?

I decided to keep my MFD after not receiving solid buyers. custom panel to keep the buttons in-order. I decided to remove the "MFD" characters because I'll purchase a FULL-RACE ETS PRO unit and use the space to place the switches and knob. My only beef is that I don't have oil pressure per not having the MFD2 update by NISMO. I haven't decided if I want to upgrade to the NISMO version or if I just want to purchase a dedicated oil pressure gauge. I'm not a fan of gauges but I do have an AEM AFR gauge... Anyway, does anyone know how the MFD 2 reads oil pressure? Does the system come with an additional oil pressure sensor? http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/ie/pdf/ie01.pdf i didn't find anything on NISMO's site.

Honestly, I haven't used the program in some time. I do not currently have it installed. However, I have installed the program a couple of times in the past. The 2010 program should be installed first. I remember using MagicISO for that. Once the program is installed you need to configure it and make the program load the appropriate Skyline CDs. I wanna say that I used MAGICISO to create the virtual drives for that as well. Hey, mate. It's been a long time. glad to see that your builds is going so well. :-) I recently installed a BNR34 MFD into my BNR32. Otherwise, everything is slow with my build. I'm not in the states just yet but I hope I can pay a visit to Oz really next year. I believe I used the US or Canadian one per my preferred flavor of the English language. :-) I think I installed in compatibility mode too. The ISOs with the letters in front of them are for the JDM vehicles. I don't have much need to look up numbers lately so I haven't installed it on my current system.

Any setup file should be fine. I don't remember having to setup multiple ISOs just one and used the main file to point to all the ISOs after installation. The ISOs ARE FOR JDM vehicles including the Skylines. USA vehicles can be found on Courtesy Nissan's website (courtseyparts.com). I don't have the Eur ISOs. I apologize about that.

I uploaded Nissan FAST here for the Nissan SKYLINE and GTR Google + page: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxDXWrNW4kySeW1qZVZCUFVlT3c&usp=sharing You'll need all files and please read install Doc.

I understand that it's all relative but how different is the sound? I just don't want my exhaust to sound like a raspy Honda civic.

I've heard good things about the Midori. I thought they only make titanium pipes though. Apologies, I was trying to ask which design is better for flow but I think I figure out which.

I'm in the market for a new front pipe for my BNR32. I'm sporting BNR34 vspev outlets and I want a high flowing front pipe to match it. Anyone know which design offers the best flow? 1) Equal length such as the Mine's 2) Short pipe such as the stock design, RS*R, etc?

I think this is the controller I need