CrimsonLey

Thank God for that! I was seriuosly willing to pay retail for a used R34 ARC oil cooler!

subscribed for later reading.

I'm looking for a min of 600whp. I more interested in the better technology of the GT block than the 05U: cooling, etc. Besides, I haven't seen a N1 block available so this is the next best thing vs stock. Will my other RB26 components fit? This is a copy and paste of my current engine mods: >>Engine RB2.7DET (R33 shortblock/r34 head) -CP Pistons 87mm -Cometic head Gasket -Eagle Rods -ACL Upgraded bearings -ARP head and main studs -unkown Polished andBalanced Crank -N1 Oil Pump -Tomei Type-A cams -HKS Race 60mm ex.wastegate -RC 750cc injectors -EBAY Fuel Rail -Walbro 255 fuel pump -Aeromotive FuelPressure Regulator -NGK spark plugs -stock ignition coils -HKS intake with customintake box -Sard BOV -PitWorks timing belt -PitWorks drive belt -GReddy adjust cam gears -Garrett GT4088 -unknown clear timingcover -LM24 custom IC piping -LM24 custom Intercooler -LM24 custom 4"downpipe Fujitsabo Cat-Back3.5" OBX top mount manifold Godspeed Radiator Greddy oil catch can asoverflow tank Nismo Rad cap Electric puller fan convert Nismo T-stat Battery relocated totrunk. Motul 300v 15W-50 Power Enterprise MAG oilfilter

So, it turns out I need a rebuild. Might has well get a stronger block to replace my 05U. Do you know if a regular RB26 head will fit?

I want the ashtray and HICAS controller under the steering wheel... if you're willing to part out.

John, thanks for the interest. I'm pretty serious about Time Attack but I'm restricted to the rules of the organization which I'll be running with. I remember reading that the interior cannot be completely stripped. It's not a hardcore, competitive TA series so I imagine that's why. My GTT-R has a RB26 engine with a stoke to 2.7. You're not the first person that thought I was running a RB25. Apologies for not being clear in the OP. My Beast is at 600rwhp ATM. I don't hit boost until 5000-6000 RPM which is MEH. I'm hoping my tuner and my GTX30 can get me into boost around 3500 and give me good acceleration through-out the track. What do you (and anyone else reading) think about a sequential Twin Turbo setup? I know the Supra offers that stock.. To my knowledge I'm running the stock H2O pump. I think the issues is more about fans and shrouds as opposed to the water pump.

I visited the shop today to drop off the gaskets and check on the progress of the Beast. chilling getting work done: The shop removed the A/C and removed the head covers to install the AN fittings for my PCV Cheap ass Godspeed radiator (notice the rusty lines) and a Mishimoto twin fan setup Radiator being measured and fabricated to fit If my car continues to overheat then I'll install a cross flow radiator, install the stock clutch fan, and place the twin mishi setup in-front of the rad (reverse the blades).

I dropped off the Skyline at the shop back home in Los Angeles. Thank God that I finally have a place where the tuners know WTF their doing. I took 1 of the technicians for a ride and I explained all my concerns and everything that was wrong with my car. He immediately started offering suggestions. So, I was mainly there to get my Haltech installed and the overall car health checked but, unfortunately, a fuel line was sliced by my drive belt while I was heading there. I ended up spilling expensive California petro everywhere. The previous shop, LM24, decided to use cheap, non-SS lines for the fuel lines which was very stupid considering where they mounted/positioned them. More on that later. Rewinding time a little, I asked the shop in L.A. to do a compression check on the engine before doing the Haltech via a their Dynpack Dyno. Thank God I did because the sparks plugs were barely torqued in place! Moreover, my compression check came back with a 150 compression in all cylinders except for cylinder 6 - which was 130. They recommended a engine rebuild. Custom fuel lines SS are being measured and installed. I also asked them to install more fans for the Haltech to control, remove the A/C (might as well have them do it) and fix the PCV lines because LM24 used cheap Home Depot plastic lines which got burnt by the hot engine. For the PCV lines, they decided to remove the stock PCV heads to install AN fittings like this guy did to his RB installed in a 240z. Afterwards SS lines will be measured and installed: I didn't like the direction the tech wanted to go with the radiators fans but I guess we'll see if it over heats. He decided to installed two puller fans with a shroud behind the radiator (in-between the engine and radiator) to cool the engine. My clutch fan was never installed so I preferred to have 1 puller and 1 pusher fan to cool the radiator and engine separately sort like the stock configuration in a way. As for the installation, I ordered a bunch of replacement gaskets fromm West Covina Nissan (TheNismoShop.com): I eventually want to do an engine rebuild before I replace my turbo. I've been looking into the GT500 block or the N1 block and a few other improvement mods while my engine is being reviewed and rebuilt. I'll post move once the Beast is back from the shop.

Definitely keep us posted, mate. Don't forget to add pix

+1. From what I read the wiring/electrical aspect is the most difficult issue you'll face. I know a few dudes state-side that have done a GTR engine/tranny convert on a S14: http://forums.nicoclub.com/95-awd-rb26-s14-kouki-t546132.html#p6228048 He said it was a BEITCH to do and expensive. If you have the time and money then I say go for it! If then, like R31Nismoid said, it's probably better to get a real GTR. BTW, I was told that the R34 chasis are the same between the GTT and GTR. There are of course difference in certain areas relating to the frame (i.e. crossmembers, etc).

Sorry for the dumb question but is there a 'stock location' to install a tow hook on a R34?

Thanks mate but ATM I'm interested in SPL bits and finding R34 bits that have solid bushings to compensate the components that SPL doesn't manufacture for the R34.

I figured the Chinese company could also manufacture a 4" Ti exhaust for a R34. Project didn't fall through. I understand. No worries.

I don't have an R35, mate. I was looking for something for my R34.

Any more info on the exhaust for 2012?

Good point on the oil cooler. I'm not sure about the OP but my radiator is visually rusted inside so I'll conduct another flush and replacement. I'm also considering a cross-flow radiator. Anyone have any experience with the PWR crossflow (or any other company)?

Read and replied. You basically confirmed with Dori34 mentioned above, thanks Pete. I do plan on tracking my R34 and I want to ensure I have the more adjustable suspension bits. SuperPro have poly bushings? I prefer to keep the suspension bushing consistent (i.e. all solid, all polly, etc).

I'm very doubtful that I'll purchase Jap suspension bits. IMHO, most of the Jap suspension manufactures don't make components that are any better than lower priced bits from Oz or the states. SPL parts are Titanium with solid bushings. Which Aussie companies do you recommend? I'm interested in White Line but I don't know anything about them.

I've been playing around with the White Line website and looks no Silvia or Z part is compatible with the R33/R34 front control arms. Hence, SPL doesn't manufacture that particular bit.

How does that translate to the Silvia or Z32? SPL parts only manufacture bits for USDM vehicles. If I figure out the complete compatibility list then I could purchase replacements for my stock components. BTW, they at least told me that these parts fit the R32 "The following items will fit the Skyline R32 GTR: S13 rear upper arms S13 rear hicas eliminator (available but not advertised yet) S13 traction rods S13 rear subframe bushings or rear subframe conversion bushings S14 rear diff bushings S13 front tension rodsZ32 front tie rod ends w/ Z32/Z33 inner tie rods"

^^ Thanks, mate. The front tension rods control the camber and caster, right?

Does anyone know which SPL Pro Suspension parts are compatible with the Skyline ER34? http://www.splparts.com/ I've called and email SPL over the pass 3 months. The rep told me he would contact the Australian distributor but never got back with me. I've also contacted other SPL vendors with no luck. Google isn't turning up any results either.

I've finally thought of a name for my Skyline: Beast. It's sounds stupid at first and I couldn't agree more but the story of the name actually started with a co-worker of mine. My co-workers all know that I love cars. In the past 4 years I've bought (and later sold) appx 6 different vehicles. I suppose you can say that I was searching for 'the one.' About 1-2 months ago, one of my co-workers told me that I 'should watch a movie by Eric Bana.' I didn't think much of it but he told me that the movie was called "The Beast" and it was available via Netflix steaming video. Me, being open minded, watched the movie that weekend. The story resembled my feelings towards my R34 so what better name to have: Beast... or more correctly termed, My Beast. Now to get down to business. Around Christmas time 2011, I installed a Nismo combination meter and a GTR MFD. I took me quite a bit of time to figure out the MFD. About 3 days later, 2 blown fuses, and a dead battery, I figured it out. Heres a vid of the Nismo meter (brief view) and the MFD: Cooling has been a major concern of mine ever since I first drove the Skyline. The previous owner is an idiot. It seemed like he was mainly concerned about how he looked driving the car and how the car looked driving. No real attention to detail was placed on the configuration and parts selection. Anyways, car has overheated at idle on several occasions. I had to flush the radiator and engine block with a garden hose to remove the majority of the rust-filled coolant. When I was done with the flush, I installed a BNIB Nismo T-stat and used a 50/50 solution with distilled H2O. The cooling is A LOT better but still not the best. As of Jan 2012, I've flushed the radiator and block 3-4 times and there's STILL rust in the coolant. Nismo The shop that tuned the Skyline (again LM24) installed a puller fan in replacement of the clutch fan AND the A/C fan (aka the overheat fan). Stupid really, since an electric fan alone isn't enough to cool off a built GTR RB engine especially since there isn't an efficient airflow path in the bay (FOR NOW). Currently, I'm in the process of setting up an efficient fan, radiator, shroud combo to combat the heat. I refuse to go back to clutch fan even though I know it'll solve my heat problems. I've decided to go with a cross flow radiator (probably from PWR), the stock shroud, and install a pusher fan in-place of the stock over heat fan. Anyone know if the water pump and stock shroud will work well with a crossflow radiator? I have my eyes set on Flex-a-lite fans http://www.flex-a-lite.com/ I plan on having them controlled via my uninstalled Haltech ECU and the water temp sensor (Jan 2012). I went ahead and bought a MFD from another GTR and upgraded stock my combination meter to the Nismo combination meter. Both devices are brilliant and I have visual of practically everything going on in the engine bay. Eventually I will upgrade my MFD to the Nismo version.

LOL, I was thinking final drive but I typed final gear...

I been hesitating to post up my build on SAU. I'm not sure why I waited so long but I'm posting up my build here to get feedback and suggestions. My Skyline was built and tuned by LM24 in Long Island New York. I'm slowly fixing the mess they made and bad decisions the previous owner made. My goal for the Skyline is mainly time attacking. I'm not sure exactly what I need since I've never time attacked before. I'm open to suggestions/recommendations. Hence, this thread. Current modification list as of Jan 2012: >> Engine RB2.7DET (R33 short block/r34 head) -CP Pistons 87mm -Cometic head Gasket -Eagle Rods -ACL Upgraded bearings -ARP head and main studs -unkown Polished and Balanced Crank -N1 Oil Pump -Tomei Type-A cams -HKS Race 60mm ex. wastegate -RC 750cc injectors -EBAY Fuel Rail -Walbro 255 fuel pump -Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator -Unknown spark plugs -stock ignition coils -HKS intake with custom intake box -Sard BOV -PitWorks timing belt -PitWorks drive belt -GReddy adjust cam gears -Garrett GT4088 -unknown clear timing cover -LM24 custom IC piping -LM24 custom Intercooler -Custom 4" downpipe Fujitsabo Cat-Back 3.5" OBX top mount manifold Godspeed Radiator Greddy oil catch can as overflow tank Nismo Rad cap Electric puller fan convert Nismo T-stat Battery relocated to trunk. Motul 300v 15W-50 Power Enterprise MAG oil filter >> Suspension/Drive train R33 5MT tranny Comp Stage 4 6 punkclutch Unknown FW HKS unknown series Coilovers Nismo F/R Sway bars Unknown (HICAS removal) stabilizer bar >> Interior/Electronics MOMO super Cup Racing seats AEM EMS series 1 Apexi Turbo timer Apexi AVC-R boost controller GTR MFD (non-Nismo version) Nismo Combination Metter Works Bell BOSS short hub (air bag version) Works Bell Rapfix ii QR Personal steering wheel Fortune Auto shifter >> Exterior/ (ER34) Tommy Kaira front bumper Nismo rear bumper GTR Xenon lights stock GT-R wheels Cheap ass Nexxen tires square 265/35/18 Nismo LED trail lights (by JDM Auto Link) GTR rear fog light Where I want to take the build: >> Engine Garrett GTX30 or GTX35 McKinney top mount mani Titanium exhaust of some sort Spirefire coilpacks Fix GTT wiring issue to read oil temp via stock sensor and run into my GTR MFD Install my Haltech PPP Nismo oil cooler Nismo Gasket kit Nismo plenum Nismo Intercooler Mishimoto radiator Mishimotor PS cooler or stock (from Z33/34) E85 convert SARD/TOMEI fuel rail Remove A/C system >> Suspension/Drive train I'm thinking of a GTR 4WD/AWD convert -GETRAG -GTR front cross member, etc. -GTT to GTR rewiring and new wiring harness Nismo Ti strut bar ACT carbon clutch ACT FW 1.5way (perhaps Nismo) I'm thinking of changing final gears for Time Attacks. Comments? Whiteline adjustable anti-sways SPL Pro Suspension bits all over Bilstein coilovers from Europe built in Oz (by Gary) or U.S. (if I could find a suspension builder with Gary's attention to detail in the US) StopTech trophy series BBK with rotors or used BBK from someone on the forums SS brake lines Nismo SS clutch line and slave cylinder >> Interior/Electronics Nismo GT500 Ti knob Nismo short throw BNR34 pedals (Big Maybe) Remove radio and speakers >> Exterior/ (ER34) Install my JDL tuning rear GTR bumper Empire Aero GTR Ztune package Paint Ztune color Seibon Ztune style hood Seibon CF R34 doors Empire Aero CF R34 spoiler splitter Remove rear wiper Replace glass with light-weight material Volk TE37sl 18" in black (I had the graphite and quickly sold them) or lighter wheels Remove tint Video (2011 before I started the GTR convert): GT40 for now: Haltech PPP and Boost solenoid My Z and my 34: