mz.qiksky

Is it making any noises? Whooshing really high pitched or anything like that with the shuddering of the car? Do you have a boost gauge installed, if so is the boost spiking? Reason I ask is because my old op6 was surging, causing the car to jolt and shudder. It was set to 10psi but was spiking to 14psi and making a definitive high pitched whine/whooshing noise. If its that, its very dangerous for the turbo and engine and I would recommend dropping the boost right back to a point where it no longer does it, or getting a new turbo.

10 psi max for safety

I use Eagle F1 Assymetric 2's and the size is 255/35/18. They are $650 a corner here in Oz but I get them from NZ for NZD$300 each and NZD$200 shipping.

I bought my skyline over from NZ and it had pretty much the same mods. It passed the pits, I got the permits and havent had any problems.

I know that noise. My op6 did it when I wound the boost up. I also found that the boost was spiking when it made that noise. I just wound the boost down to stop it. Have you been running 20psi for a while and it's just started now? Or have you just wound up the boost recently? It's usually caused from the turbo flowing more air than it can handle.

For those interested this is now a reality... details as follows: JDM Swap Meet Location: Midvale Speed Dome, Eddie Baron Dr, Midvale Date: Saturday, 7th September 2013 Gates open 9am for setup Trading begins at 10am $15 per site (carpark), discounts available when 3+ sites are purchased Gold coin entry for spectators If you've only got a few items to sell get your mates together and book a site together! PM me to register.

Hey guys, Just trying to see how much interest there would be in a swap meet in Perth for JDM parts and other bits and pieces, cars, rolling shells, tools etc. I know plenty of people would be interested in buying parts so thats not a problem, however, trying to find people who would be interested in taking all their parts to a central location for the day is. Unsure if anything like this has been run in Perth before for the JDM community so I'm interested to hear your thoughts. A venue is on hold for the 7th of September at the moment but let me know if you'd be interested in having a site for the day. Thanks.

You've got the power and torque. You need to stiffen it up.... seriously. Suspension, sway bars, bushes. What you've got at the moment is good for starting, but if you want to advance you'll need to stop the excess movement.

Possibly nothing done to the internals on the block, RB30 blocks are good for 600hp on factory internals. Just depends on who is doing the work. The most common RB30 conversion is done with a S2 R33 head. You'll probably have a decent fuel pump, ecu and some cam work for 470hp and the engine builder may have done their own rod prep as well.

I have the R34 GTT manual which has the factory ECU pinout, is that what you're after? I'm just unsure how to attach or send it to you through these forums.

Im not sure if there is fuel pump relay, think it works via the ECU. Could very well be the immobiliser, I've seen first hand how annoying they can be. We have a Walbro fuel pump and when we turn the car on to ACC we hear it prime and the fuel hoses buldge with the pressure. Do your fuel lines buldge when you turn the car to ACC?

I had a problem with dirty fuel. My fuel filter got blocked and in the fuel tank there is a little pressure release valve and it had popped open so that fuel was only circulating in the fuel tank. The symptoms sound exactly the same, the car cranks and cranks and cranks but it won't ever start. We pulled the fuel cradle, pump and lines etc and saw that the spring in the release valve had popped out so no fuel was getting anywhere near the engine. I think this could be what your problem is, but I can't be certain. One way to check I guess would be to spray 'start ya bastard' or crc into the intank plenum as the car is being cranked over to try and get a cough and splutter out of the engine to rule out ignition problems. When we sprayed it in the car coughed and spluttered. If this is your problem call Nissan - order part 17065 AA500 - takes about a month to get here from Japan. Change fuel filter regularly, we do ours with our oil change, every 5000kms now. Good luck.

change fuel filter??

I tell people not to listen to the tools who tell them its ok to do it on their cars which cost them xx thousand. But what do I know? I happen to get my information from people who rebuild turbo's for livings and not off google. So what if it didnt happen on your car, it may happen on his. And if you want to be the idiot who told him it was ok, thats on you.

There's a few different forms of surge most common is when the throttle and bov are closed while boost is still in the system with no where to go and it back tracks to the comp wheel and trys to stall it while the turbine is still being driven making that lovely flutter sound which is very bad for the turbo. It puts over 100 lbs of load on the thrust bearing which only has a 2mm contact area in some cases and so they fail quickly. The other type (shown in the video) is a mismatch of compressor wheel in relation to setup as in its outside its efficiency zone or surge limit and it cant grab air to make boost if it gets to bad it can have a servere enough effect to brake cranks or engine mounts. Pretty much most blow valves on the market today are crap inducing surge when the stock one worked perfectly fine there is others ways to do systems that dont need a blow off valve - red top RB20's/rb30 VL

The R34 has a nylon compressor wheel which makes them lighter and quicker to spool... yet weaker under high psi/temperature. They're only good for about 10psi and are probably one of the worst turbos to experience compressor surge with. You could get the factory turbo hi-flowed, where they replace the inlet and exhaust wheels with steel. But even so, I wouldn't recommend compressor surge on any turbo.

Similar thing happened to me with an aftermarket bonnet, water got under the coilpack covers in heavy rain and car dropped down to 5 cyl, then 4 cyl and then it didn't run. Had to pull it all apart and take out the coilpacks and clean it all out and I sold the bonnet which was a shame cause I really liked it. While the car was running on 5 cyl etc I used a hell of a lot of fuel and eventually realised that my o2 sensor had burned out too. I could only travel about 300kms on a tank of gas. Unsure if the two problems were related, but they happened at the same time. Hope that helps.

If you just got the car I recommend you do the manual conv and then work on the handling side of things. IMO no point in boosting the power until you know how to drift it, otherwise you just play tag with the walls. I have a friend who has just started drifting... his starter car is an R32 with an RB20E which is perfect. Simple mods will be fine, FMIC, pod filter, new brake pads/fluid are good too and some decent suspension. If the 33 runs electronic HICAS you can remove the steering rack and replace it with a lock bar. Some places sell collars that will lock the steering rack but you're better off replacing the whole thing with a lock bar.

It is compressor surge and is caused by the bov. When the bov doesnt open at the right time or doesnt open enough the compressed air flows back across the blades of the turbo and out of the air/pod filter. This is often because of the spring rate in bov. It is not good for the turbo because the blades can get damaged and break and go through the engine. The flutter may sound cool between gear changes but its not worth it.

I would be more inclined to replace it, especially if you plan on keeping the car. Maybe weld it up for short term use or to just go to the JDM meet. My mates 32 did the same thing, except it broke clean off, your lucky to have caught it.

Try KYP in Welshpool. They have lots of stock and aftermarket parts for Skylines.

If the coilovers are adjustable you should be able to raise it over the 100mm ground clearance. I have Tein adjustables and when I had to go over the pits after bringing my car to the country I failed cause the exhaust was sitting at 65mm, I drove to the back of the line and raised it up to the right height while waiting and then I passed and got my mod permit. The mod permit says I have adjustable suspension and that the car must maintain 100mm ground clearance.

Try KYP in Welshpool, they were really good when I needed non-xenon headlights to go over the pits with. Good luck.

Pretty sure you do the paperwork first, they'll come back and approve your mods then you take the car to the engineering guy and then you go off to the pits... I'm just going by memory here from when I spoke to the mods guys at Welshpool last month A high flow cat is better for emissions than what no cat would be assuming it might fail if its just straight thru exhaust.

Check this place out mate... they're friendly and well priced, provide all the tools you'll need for the job and friendly advice if needed. http://www.mmatesplace.com.au/