pvdm

My NEO motor in a manual stagea was overheating also. It turned out to be a small leak in the plastic end tanks of the stock rad. Was only enough to lower the system pressure and then the coolant would boil at the turbo and the car would then overheat. Check that your hoses are hard with pressure when it overheats. If they are not, then you have a small leak somewhere. I replaced the rad cap and thermostat before i found the leak and it did nothing. A full aluminum rad from just jap or ebay is an easy job you can do at home if that is your problem. By the way, when looking for coolant leaks, you may not see any fluid, only the white residue of the boiled dry coolant. Look for that instead of liquid coolant. Hope its not your head gasket, you can test for CO2 in your coolant with a tester from repco. Or if its bad enough, you will have bubbles coming to the surface with rad cap off and car idleing. You may also have oil in your coolant or froth in your oil. Look for that. Good luck.

I know this is an old post but I have exactly the same problem and just wondering if anyone knows what this annoying pump sound might be? It is exactly as the OP described. I have just bled the attessa system and it did not stop the noise. As soon as i started bleeding it i knew it was not the same pump sound. I dont think it is the fuel pump because it seems to be linked to wheel speed. If you are rolling slowly it will keep running until i come to a complete stop. Then it will stop completely until i start moving again. Car is a stagea C34 RS4S factory manual. Hope someone can help!

I know this is an old thread but I used it to change my timing belt and have a couple of things to add that might help others. My car is a c34 Rs4S (i.e. manual, series 2 w/ RB25det neo). I used a genuine belt and seals and NSK idler and tensioner. Firstly, even though it is a manual, I could not lock it in gear with the parking brake on and remove the crank pulley bolt. With the force required to remove it, it will easily drive forward (even uphill) and you will not have enough throw to get it undone. With the radiator out, you can undo the mounts for the aircon condenser and the small bracket that is right in front of the pulley and just get a rattle gun in there. Once the rattle gun in in place it will undo easily just against compression. For tightening, I could do it up to the specified torque by simply locking it in gear with the hand brake on though. Secondly, you do not need to remove spark plugs to turn the engine over when aligning the marks and for after the installation. If you turn it over slowly, you will have no troubles. The most important thing is the tension to apply to the belt before you finish the job. The translated manual is not very clear with this as its a bad translation. The job of the tensioner spring (that you should replace when doing this job) is to set the specified tension, by itself. So, once everything is installed and aligned correctly (but with the tensioner mounting bolt loose), turn the motor over 2 or 3 full rotations (TDC - TDC) to help settle the tensioner and belt. At this point, the tensioner will have applied the correct, factory determined tension on the belt. Now all you have to do is hold the tensioner in place with the allen key hole and tighten its bolt to the specified torque. Job done. If you try and set the tension by either the twist method or the +/- 5mm at longest throw method, you might get it wrong and have an over tightened belt that whines and makes a terrible noise when the engine heats up. Last thing that I noticed was that, like many people have found, the timing loops (blue and white) at the back of the motor near the fire wall give strange readings. I tried many things and always got too much advance when using the loops. Even with the CAS all the way against the stops, there was still not enough adjustment to get a correct reading. I still don't really know what is going on, but apparently, some timing lights pick up on an earlier signal when using the timing loops and you get roughly double the reading. On one of my loops, there was two signals coming through and I could just make out two different timing marks. One was way out and moving all over the place and the other was about what I would expect and when set correctly to 20deg the CAS was almost in its original position. Hope this helps others. Cheers!

Thanks Mate, your absolutely correct. I have gone genuine for $216/set. Incidently, I changed the front sway bar links first and this solved the very annoying rattle that I had in the front end. Feels so much tighter now, nice! Cheers for your info.

Hey Tom I am replacing the tie rod ends at the moment on my RS4S. The guys at pedders said they have found some rod ends that they think will fit but after reading a few posts here I am not so sure. Just to be clear, did you put the protex - TE926-14 tie rods on first and then replace those with genuine items? Did you try pedders? Thanks mate, Pier

Hey All One of my first posts since I took delivery of my C34 RS4S. Its a great car and goes surprisingly well. Its such a sleeper, its great! Thought it would be interesting to post my first two fuel consumption figures as my car is absolutely stock standard. Not a single mod except a turbo timer. Both figures are mixed hiway and city driving plus its a new car for me so I have been giving it a good squirt in between. First 58L Caltex 98 to 498kms = 11.6 L/100km Second 55L Caltex 98 to 510 = 10.8L/100km I imagine if I was going easy and not getting on boost much it would drop to 9L/100 easy. I'm pretty happy with that as just about any car of a similar size (commodore wagon, camry, liberty) will use the same or more. Only difference is when the RB lights up all the others will be in the rear view mirror! Cheers!

Thats great! Answers so many questions I had, even in slightly cryptic Japanese! Thanks a lot