DannyC33

yeah fair call mate. shouldnt have to much issue gettin 6.5" to fit in there.

twin pipes for sure. looks a million times better then a cannon

nah wasn't to bad. my components have the tweeters built in. but id avoid putting the tweeters to high. it can be very over powering and mess with the sound stage, try and have them as close to the woofers as possible. in my r31 coupe i actually got a hole saw and cut holes just about the woofers and flush mounted them. looked like they were factory fitted and sounded amazing

i have 6.5" component speakers in my laurel. i just cut the plastic housing away and made it fit 6.5" speakers

well friday was a little dissapointing. ran into a few issues on the dyno. vct controller was turning on and registered rpm, but it wasnt actually doing anything. next problem was that the tps wasnt getting a signal either. apparently these two problems are linked. the way the 25 has been wired, i apparently missed the part that said i needed to power a wire from the ecu that gives power to the vct solenoid and tps. so i will be fixing that during the week. next problem and a bigger one is that the bee*r rev limiter isnt letting the engine rev past 6000rpm. unfortunately they ran outta time to disconnect the bee*r and fix the vct/tps and so the tune has only been partly done, and will require a little touch up once these things have been fixed. having said that, it made 201.9rwkw on 14.5psi limited to 6krpm.

well laurels been running nicely for a week now. done just over 100ks (i live extremely close to my work haha) and its gettin tuned tomorrow morning. cant freaking wait to see the results!

Haha yes. Please do!!

hell yeah thats looks like it was ment to be like that. nice work man

so changed the cam cover gaskets tonight. and took it for a boot round the block. love it! so freaking happy its registered, and assumin it starts in the mornin (suspect the battery is dead/dying) itll be gettin driven to work and some fresh fuel put in it. its currently i little shitty under load when it gets up in the revs, which im assumin is either fuel or the fact the vct isnt connected running off an rb20 ecu thats not tuned.

so i was getting all excited to register the laure yesturday, was up early working on it. in the freezing cold. doing the last little bits of wiring, fixing the power steering resi from leaking. and swappin speedo cables out. started it up. let it idle and get warm. then took it for a boot up the road and back. revs hard. comes on boost hard. and just wants to bake tires. as i pulled it back into the driveway, noticed there was a lot of smoke coming from the engine bay. popped the bonnet and it was comin from exhaust side, so i kinda just assumed it was gasket goo, degreaser or spilt oil. apon further inspection, turns out the exhaust cam cover is pissing out oil onto the exhaust manifold.. so thats a big dampner it. now i gotta pull the bloody cam covers off again. haha ohwells. good thing i hadnt registered it yet.

ah that sounds like fun.... not. least ya mates got a general idea of whats goin on.

haha you are a god amongst men!

seriously dude? sell me one of the 3 you have! where do you keep finding them?

least its fairly basic stuff, hopefully the ecu isnt to much of a stuff around. nice figures. especially considering its not been properly tuned yet.

nice! keen to see the results. mines tentatively booked to be tuned in 3 weeks.

found out that ceffy hicas rack is not a direct swap for laurel. the housings are completely different and there is more lines going into the laurel pinion housing. can be made to fit. but you will need the cefiro high pressure line from the pump. both the high and low pressure lines will require slight bending to make them fit.

Fixed it all up today. Test driven. All seems sweet now. Needs a wheel alignment somethin feirce. But drives in one direction now haha.

ive got alloy lock collars in there atm. apon inspection, i found the cradle mounts are fine. and tight as hell. i did how ever notice that my left hand traction arm one of the lock nuts has come loose the right and toe arm also had a loose lock nut. and also where both the toe arms mount to the cradle, theres visible signs of them having slipped in the cradle. odd considering that its not running the eccentric bolt and washer that holds them in from factory. ive replaced those with the gk tech lock out washers. but the bolts there were loose also. have tightened them all up now and readjusted my traction and toe arms. just havent had a chance to test it yet. hopefully thats fixed the issue.

ok so got the power steering fixed. cefiro high pressure line was used, turns out laurel and cefiro even though both hicas. use different lines. i made it fit though so all good. serviced the engine on saturday and whilst i was letting the engine warm up so the radiator flush could do its job i noticed that it had split a hose under the plenum... not happy at all... so thats gotta be changed. took it for a drive up the street (had to move cars in the front yard anyway) rack feels good, engines nice and responsive. but the rear ends still floating all over the place. id assumed it was the rack moving around. but since the entire front end is now brand new. its gotta be somethin in the rear. gonna jack it up in a bit and have a look. thinkin maybe cradle mounts. as ive changed the cradle. maybe they have come loose?

soooo. my power steering wont work.. ive replaced the hicas rack with a cefiro rack, its only got 5 ports. since removing my hicas i only have 4 pipes. ive fitted them all. how ever there is one that is open and leaks fluid out of it.. other problem is when car is running it has no power assist. anyone know what the other port is for. and how to make my steering work? for reference its the far left port on the front of the pinion housing. its a bigger fitting then the one for the pipe that comes from the pump. need this fixed tonight else im walkin to work...

damn you for getting another club s lip! haha i think you should sell it to me!

Well its finally running. Still got a few little things to do like tail shaft and rack boots. And tidy the wiring up. But it starts and runs beautifully. It seems the powersteering pump has died how ever. Its makin a god awful noise and then sounded like it ground to a halt and blew a bunch of smoke. So will need a new one. And a speedo cable as its broken somewhere I believe. 32 should be the same yes?

Got the gearbox in tonight. Still tryin to get my head around the wiring. Cant work out how the rb20 uses a seperate loom for the starter and alternator Where as the series 2 25 has them incorporated into the engine harness.

So the engines in. Anyone got a link to the wiring that needs to be done to get it to start and make the gauges work?

soooo massive update. lots has happened over the last couple weeks. rb20 came out nice and easy. victory smoke and cider taking the rb20 for its last ride rust was found..... lots of rust... thankfully only surface rust. rust was removed. via drill and wire wheel. (shit idea. takes to long) that was three hours worth of wire wheeling. then via $59 super cheap auto sand blaster. (amazing! best $59 ive ever spent) random selfie in my protective clothing..... lol the aftermath... looks like its been sitting through an egyptian freaking sand storm haha. painted in anti rust primer painted in anti rust black paint engine was delivered to me tuesday last week. rad coz saved me driving an hour to pick it up and organising a trailer. haha lots of part have been bought. with a few more to be purchased over the next few days. list so far asi silicone hose kit new timing belt water pump engine mounts rear main seal gktech lock spacers nolathane rack mounts alloy gktech steering shaft bush summit racing rpm window switch (to allow vct to work) tonight luke and myself stripped the bits off the 20 that i wanted to keep. and started stripping the 25 of the bits that im throwing away or replacing. will hopefully have the engine in and running by the weekend. need to get dr bolt out to remove the snapped exhaust studs.