DannyC33

Yeah true. My dump pipe is off an r33 so little long haha

looking good dan. wish mine sat up that high. the bottom of my dump pipe is flat now thanks to scraping on speed bumps and stuff haha

dude i love your car. where abouts in adl are you? including yours i now know of only 3 c33s regoed in adelaide. i got a black one and my mate has a pearl white over gold one with a 25 in it.

that was kinda hard to watch. looking at all the bits i could have used off it. although it looks like it was basically stripped already. couldnt see a rear cradle in it and i doubt it had an engine bar the way the front end crushed down.

so recently i had to replace the tires on my volks as they were well passed the use by date. walked into the shed to get the equips so i could have the tires stripped off and fitted to the volks. as i pulled the first one off the pile i noticed it bounced when it hit the ground... thinkin thats odd maybe this was the one out of the four that didnt leak when put in the water bath. i continued to pull the other tires off and realised they all 4 were still hard. so i fitted them up to the laurel, went for a drive and parked the car up over night. expecting the tires to be flat the next morning. i was wrong. all four are still rock hard and have not lost a single psi. im thinkin that maybe what i saw as a leak when they were tested was just little bubbles of air that had been caught in the silicone bein forced out under the pressure of the tire. they have been on the car now for 2 weeks and all good. will see what happens when they need new tires again next time. on a different topic. the engine in the laurel is gettin a little tired. its losing water somewhere but not leaking it anywhere. so i suspect head gasket and its juts pushin it straight into the exhaust as its not mixing with the oil. its also still popping the dipstick out slightly after a hard drive. so i suspect rings are shot. im in the process of getting a few quotes for the parts to rebuild it, and I will be building the motor myself. planning on just a basic rebuild with forged pistons and a set of poncams. how ever pending how long i put it off and how the bank accounts are looking i might drop the head off at lewis engines to have them port the head out and re seat the valves and such. so far from what ive found, if i go for a completely stock rebuild with standard cams and no head work its gonna run me about $2200. if i got for cams its about $3100 and if i get the head done also its pushin $4300. what do people think about doin the head? worth while? the cams are just drop in spec so no need to change anything. and will give me a bit of a mid range beef up from what ive heard. before anyone says it. no im not gonna pull the 20 out and put a 25 in. i simply dont like doin engine swaps.

Hey all. I'm looking for some centre caps for my work equips. They are work equip anhelo. They looks very similar to meisters. Id really love a full matching set if anyone has any they wonna sell. I can get away with just one as only one of mine is damaged. Alternatively if anyone has a set of vs-xx/kf or similar centre caps and would be willing to take some measurements for me I'd settle for them if they will fit. My wheels have a 69mm centre cap diameter. Cheers Danny

I had the laurel tuned recently and the tuner didn't find any faults. Other then my stock fuel pump being a bit tired. But installed a walbro and it's still doin it. Problem is it'll do it for a week or so when get over it and run fine for a while. Haha

Spotted hypr 33 (vspec gtr) on main north bout 10ish tonight. At the regency road main north intersection. Heading north. Followed it all the way to Salisbury. I was driving the silver Audi Tt. (Gfs car). If your on here. It looked awesome. Had a bit of a chuckle when you gave it a squirt. Poor Audi just isn't good enough.

It's not that green shit is it? Tire slime or somethin along those lines?

Tire in a can? I'll have a sus of that. Yeah I'm still having issues finding a club s lip. Thinkin about makin a 32 gtr lip to fit. And ya gonna sus the loom out on the weekend.

Ok cool. I'll sus it out on the weekend.

So I noticed the other day the loom that runs in the drivers side guard is gettin chewed out by the tire. I was thinkin about repairing it and putting a plate over it but then thought maybe I'd be better off relocating it. Has anyone done this and if so how hard is it and where/how do I run the loom?? Cheers

Ok so I found out today exactly what my wheels are. They are called work equip anhelos. From the searching I did today they appear for be extremely rare and expensive The few sets I found for sale/sold were chasing between 1500-2000 dollars us. For specs and condition similar to mine. So now I've decent decided I'm just gonna keep them. Save some cash do some measuring and see how much wider I can make them. Then get them professionally refurbed and sealed. Thinkin about paintings the centres a light high metallic silver and high polish on the dish. Plan is to fit the rear lips to the fronts and get new wider rear lips.

I do like the wheels on it currently. How ever I can't get them to stop leaking. I've tried everything. The next step is to fork out 130 per wheel and have them professionally sealed up and hope that fixes the problem. I've been thinkin that if I go down that path I'll get some new lips made up. Put the rear lips on the front and get wider rears so that I don't have to run spacers for good fitment. As for the styling. If I could find a club s lip I'd already own it haha I've even asked streeter to find me one. I have a set of side skirts lined up. But waiting to get the lip before I bother.

not really an update as such. but ive finally gotten around to sorting out the stereo for the laurel. after a lot of comparing and testing things out. ive decided to give jay car a go. currently have a set of 6x9 kevlar coax in the rear. 6.5" kevlar coax in the front. with a 4x100wrms response precision amp and a 1x1000wrms mono block response precision amp. all new wiring and some vibration matting. will hopefully get it installed this weekend assuming stock comes in so i can pick up the 10" vifa 300wrms sub and the mono block. on more of a aesthetic point. ive decided i want new wheels. tryin to decide between cr kai. volk ce28ns, orgin dna02. im not at all bothered by copies. rota/koya that kinda thing. they all do the same thing. what do people think?

no catch can. unfortunately haha

having said that i also believe i may be in for an engine build in the not too distant future. the old rb20 is seeming a little tired. i noticed the other day that the oil dipstick had popped out. it is a little smokey in the mornings but thats the only time ive seen smoke. and the oil smells badly of fuel. ive been wanting to build a stroker engine for a long time now. so thinkin about finally biting the bullet and doing it. was planning on doin just 25crank and a slight over bore to bring it up to 2.2ltrs. but then figured if im doin that i might aswell do a bit of head work and some cams. then i found this. http://lewisengines.com.au/prod158.htm its a 2.25ltr stroker engine/ complete from head to sump custom built to order. and figure for the money its probably a better option because once i spend the money gettin a 20 block machined out to take a gtr or 25 crank do the head work and cams itll end up about the same

probs not much gonna happen to it for a while. ill eventually stop bein lazy and finish sealing my work wheels up. having said that i have been thinkin about ditching them all together for something different

right. so yesturday me and a mate did this cradle swap. got up at like 6am so i could pick my mate up and then head to work for a 7am start. thankfully everything went fairly smoothly. for the first time ever there was no mishaps or f**k ups. the cradle was completely out and on a bench by about 8:45-9 ish. cable tied the calipers to the coil overs so they werent just swinging around haha and the new cradle complete with adjustable toe arms fitted up. it was surprisingly easy. its is in dire need of a wheel alignment as we just slapped it all back together, and the passenger side is toe out while the drivers side is toeing in. haha. makes the car kinda crab down the road slightly. i will be straightening the arms out at some point today and then gettin a wheel alignment through the week. but it drives alot better. no more violent jerking around whilst turning at slow speeds. no more clicking from the half shafts and it seems to have gotten rid of the vibration it had from the rear end also.

hey mega long shot. i bought a pair of r33 rear calipers and they were missing the steel bracket with the solid lines in them that connect to the rubber brake lines. im lookin for them and need them asap. dont particularly wonna pay for another pair of calipers that i dont need. pm me please

ah its all good. i got the non hicas knuckles. picked up the last little things today. brake fluid, copper gasket goo for the exhaust, and new copper washers for the brake lines. all systems are go. got the work shop to myself all day tomorrow. hopefully wont take to long.

oh no these shafts are second hand but in alot better condition then my current ones are. and the $90 was for a pair of non hicas knuckles. thankfully today i found the bolts required. turns out gk tech do replacement bolt kits for them which are designed so that when you put adjustable arms in it eliminates the factory cam bolt which apparently have a tendency to slip. $36 for the for bolts which are camber and toe.

so went to jap import spares today to buy some new shafts. $95 each not to bad i guess. and some lock collars as ive decided to go that way. while i was there i asked if they had the mounting bolts to fit the adjustable toe arms. after tell them i was converting from hicas to non hicas cradle they informed me that i needed to change the upright as the hicas ones have ball joints and the non hicas are a bush where the toe arms join up... so thats another $90 i wasnt planning on spending and from all the people id spoken to about doin this no one had told me it needed to be changed... ohwell shit happens i guess. just need to find some bolts and then ill have everything to get this done on saturday.

yyeah i used to work for cbc bearings and still get good prices through them. so ill be gettin them to do it.

any tips??? does the joint have to be pulled apart? im thinkin i might just buy another pair of shafts. and then send mine away to get rebuilt. my mates laurel got defected today. so we will be stripping it of the fun stuff and gettin it ready for an inspection. lucky between the pair of us we have all the stock shit. well... except for a diff but we will either source another stocker cheap or ill be pullin the shim outta mine so he can use it for the inspection.