ctnewman

I pulled the motor out of the car 3 years ago... I probably have pictures at home where this goes, but maybe you can help me out. There are two coolant lines open towards the back of the block. One of these connects to the coolant pipe under the manifold, one connects to the pipe that eventually joins the thermostat housing between the pump and thermo... I know one of them connects to the coolant exit from the turbo, but where does the other one go? Or do they tee together and then connect to the turbo? My "double vacuum pipe" is AWOL, so I cannot verify it with that... You can see the two open coolant lines in this picture:

It was the shortest runner length I could use and maintain equal length. Since the turbo sat so far forward, runner number 6 basically dictated overall length. The diameter isn't that large, really: It's a 1.5" schedule 10 manifold with a wall thickness of .109. That makes the inside diameter 1.682", that's a flux area of 2.22 in^2 The RB26 exhaust port has a flux area of 1.60 in^2. That's only 30% larger than port diameter. Which is on target to a decent amount of literature I have read. Shorter runners would have been better for my setup, but it's gotta be what it's gotta be... * Runner 1: 20.790 * Runner 2: 20.861 * Runner 3: 20.794 * Runner 4: 20.759 * Runner 5: 20.801 * Runner 6: 20.786 Standard deviation: .033

They are custom made work VSXXs 17X10 +22 17X8.5 +16

Haha, well now you can get a GTR engine for 3500 all day long. I bought one 5 years ago for a 240sx for almost 7000 dollars. insane. That said, I pulled the engine from a running GTR stateside from a guy who was a friend of mine. In fact when I told the guy I bought it from (3 years later) that it was messed up, he gave me an RB30 longblock, but since it won't fit in my my BMW, I'm saving it for another project...

i'm gonna street the shit out of this car! my other street warrior:

The whole build blog is here: http://onyxsyndicate.com/newman/e30gtr/e30gtr_00.html It's not together yet, but here is one of the few semi recent shots... Some old ones:

Haha, no, but I wasn't planning on putting PS in the car from the beginning. I really wanted an ATI damper with only the waterpump/alt pulley on it, but they said they don't make one.

Is what part machined flush? The face where the timing gear rides or another side? The crank collar came with detailed instructions from Horsepower Heaven, which was supplied to my machine shop. What happened to your crank?

You can see the heater feed/return in this pic: The return is the nipple on the tstat housing. This is "low pressure". The feed is on the block to the left. The more I think about it, I should loop these, or else the pump will cavitate when the tstat is closed....

There is no heater core in the car I am putting my RB26 in. I searched around a little bit trying to find an answer to this question, but was unable to. I know a lot of you guys loop the lines and that works, but I'm trying to find a definitive answer as to what the best course of action is for a high performance application... The heater core provides a fair amount of resistance to the system. By simply looping the lines, you create a "short circuit" from an area of high potential to low potential and could rob coolant flow from other areas that need it... Can anyone shed some light?

Fuel rail on: Plenum on: Cams in, with custom valve shims... Timing backing plate: Timing gears and belt installed. All tensioned: Rocker covers on: Another shot: Everything else. It's not really pink in person, it's more purple. The camera just doesn't represent it very well. Engine mod list: •R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R RB26DETT •87mm bore/3 angle valve job •Wiseco 87mm Pistons •Eagle Rods •HPE Crank collar •ARP head studs •ARP Flywheel Bolts •ARP Exhaust manifold studs •EPP valve guides •Ferrea Dual valve springs •Ferrea Valve spring locators •Ferrea Retainers •Ferrea Locks •ACL Calico coated main and rod race bearings •Garrett GT35R .82 A/R Tial 38mm WG •Spitfire Coilpacks •New OEM Water Pump •New OEM Oil Pump •Trust Timing Belt •Powdercoated valve covers •OEM gasket kit •Cometic MLS Head gasket •Polished alternator •ATI 1000HP Race Damper •Custom valve shims Rest of the car: Chassis: • 1987 BMW 325IS (manual) •Seam Welded •Vito Antonicelli 10 Point Cage •Every suspension member powdercoated Body: •Ireland Engineering Fender flares •OEM Mtech1 Valences and Sideskirts •Euro Bumpers, Dechromed •Shaved Side Moldings •Shaved Fuel Door •Shaved Sunroof •Custom baby puke paint •Newman Engine Mount •Newman Transmission Mount •Custom Tunnel Transmission: •Modified RB26DETT Transmission •Nismo Flywheel •EXEDY 3 puck clutch •Custom Driveshaft •E30 M3 LSD 4.11 Fuel: •Bosch -044 800HP fuel pump •Seimens 870cc injectors, flow calibrated to w/in .5% of each other •Summit 8 Gallon Fuel Cell •Custom Fuel Cell hold down straps •Custom Fuel Rail •Braided -8AN Fuel inlet line •Braided -8AN Fuel feed line •Braided -8AN Fuel return line •Aeromotive Rising rate regulator •Summit Inline fuel Filter •Custom filter and pump mounting brackets Exhaust: •Newman 304SS heavy wall manifold •Newman 304SS exhaust •Tial 38mm wastegate Induction: •Newman 304SS IC Plumbing •PWR 24X11X3 IC core semi-custom endtanks •Tial 50MM BOV Cooling: •MOXIES/Newman Radiator Electrical/Management •AEM EMS Speed Density Engine Management •AEM UEGO controller •AEM Serial Gauge •HKS Turbo Timer •New Engine Harness •Kwikwire Chassis harness •(4) Greddy warning gauges Suspension: •Ireland Engineering road race springs •Ireland Engineering poly trailing arm bushings •Ireland Engineering Poly Subframe mounts •Ireland Engineering 22/25mm swaybars •Ireland Engineering Camber/rear toe kit •Bilstein HD Dampers •New OEM wheel bearings •New OEM F&R strut mounts Wheels: •Work VS-XX wheels (17X10, 17X8.5) Custom Offset •Falken Azenis RT-615 275/40/17, 245/45/17 •Vorshlag 90mm wheel studs Interior: •Sparco Evo Seats •Corbeau Harnesses •Sparco 300mm steering wheel •Rhinoliner interior and trunk Brakes: •Wilwood billet forged superlite narrow body, differential bore 6 piston calipers (front) •Wilwood superlite 4 piston caliper (rear) •Wilwood 13X1.1 GT48 rotor (front) •Wilwood 11.75X1.25 HD rotor (rear) •Cutsom machined rotor hats and brackets •Massive rear hat, ebrake ring and bracket •Wilwood Q pads •New OEM ebrake setup (backing plate, springs, adjusters, cables, pads, actuator, pin) •Wilwood Prop valve (installed next to driver’s seat) •Custom Brake Booster •Polished Master cylinder •-4AN stainless brake hardlines •-4AN stainless braided brake hoses For more interesting engineering crap, check out this link where I made custom valve shims from scratch... http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?t=46321

Water pump on: Water pump pulley on Alternator on: Head on: Intake manifold on: Coolant pipe on: Balance tube and IAC valve on (also a ghetto hose clamp in the middle of a hose trying to relieve a kink): Kink fixed with prebent tube, waterneck on: Injectors and oil filter in:

Took a half day and worked on the top end from 12-11. About half this was already done from a few days ago... Pistons and rods installed: Rods Upgraded oil pump drive collar... Windage tray on: Oil pump on: Rear main on: Oil pan: Oil pan baffles installed Oil pan and motor mounts installed: Other side:

I am in the process of building an RB26 that sits in an 87 BMW 325IS. (http://onyxsyndicate.com/newman/e30gtr/e30gtr_00.html) Right now the bottom end has been rebuilt w/ 87mm Wiseco Eagle Rods New OEM Oil pump Crank Collar 1.5mm restrictor The top end is currently at the machine shop getting a valve job, as well as the following parts: New valve seals Exhaust valve guides Ferrea springs/locators/retainers/locs Now comes the problems, I'm essentially out of money to buy cams right now. I was thinking of getting procams or something similar in the future. I know that I need to grind the head to do this, which requires the head to be off the block for cleaning purposes. What I need to know, is what is the width of the lobe on most aftermarket cams, and is this something I can do without checking the head for clearance... I actually have done this before, about 4 years ago on my old 240 project, but I cannot remember how much I took off and where... Can anyone help me out?

THIS WAS ORIGINALLY ALL FOR A 240SX. LOCATED IN 14085 USA. OK. Make offers on this stuff. Most of the stuff is brand new, unless otherwise noted. A gentleman with an r33 skyline told me he wanted most of the parts, but he can't pay until the end of next week and i need money now, so, if you a good offer you can have it otherwise he is tentatively going to get it. (i informed him of this and he knows, just so you don't think i am scamming him) I am selling because i am buying a lotus elise. I don't feel like having a project anymore. EMAIL ME PLEASE: [email protected] I can get you pics if you need it, but alot of the pics have been posted here. 1 R32 unassembled shortblock, bored .040 over to accept Wiseco forged and coated pistons. Power enterprise black metal main bearings. Has been baked and magnafluxed, skim cut deck. Pauter rods all within .0005 on the big end. R32 Crank with Jun oil pump drive collar installed, needs set screws installed. PE blackmetal Rod bearings. 2 5 lug conversion F+R 3 Tomei head/I/E gasket kit. Stock thickness 4 Exedy triple plate clutch with max pressure plate pressure 5 AEM EMS RB26dett with MAP sensor and wideband O2 sensor 6 Tomei Procam (intake and exhaust) 270 x 10.25, and Tomei Solid Lifters. 7 Tomei Cam Pulley (both) 8 Trust clear timing cover 9 RB26 head with ferrea valve springs, ferrea titanium retainers, ferrea valve seats. Jun extra strong valve guides. HKS high performance valve seals. Minor headwork. 10 High volume water pump 11 Timing belt tensioner assy. 12 1000cc top feed injectors x 6, RC ENG 13 Power enterprise super strong timing belt 14 Jun High Volume oil pump 15 Jun main studs 16 ARP head studs 17 Used greddy profec e-01 boost controller 18 USED Greddy warning gauges: OT, OP, WT, FP, EGT, Boost 19 USED HKS type 1 TT 20 USED 240SX fluidyne radiator 21 USED PWR intercooler 3 x 11 x 24 core 22 USED Tial 35mm WG 23 USED Rb20DET transmission 24 USED 2 x z32 MAF meters 25 2 x HKS filters and 2 HKS MAF adapters (these are sweet) 26 RB equipped 240SX full 3” mandrel exhaust with solenoid operated dump valve, T3 manifold, WG dump tube, Aluminum mandrel intercooler tubing, top mount manifold flanged for T3 turbo (EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO PLUMB YOUR RB) NOTE: this was installed on a RHD car. You may need to modify the DOWNPIPE only to fit it in a LHD car. 27 Right Hand Drive Converted 1991 240sx hatch with US vin, rear mount battery, Full front interior included, lhd and rhd parts. Heater is not installed but included. Pretty much all LHD and RHD parts. 28 RB26 parts: stock pistons, rods, cams, intake manifold, valve covers, timing covers, all accessories, stock valve components, water pump, oil pump, PTU, everything but stock block, head, & valves. etc. etc. etc.

Thank you very much. So the screws go in the flat of the drive. Everyone else agree?

can someone post up that picture of the installed JUN crank collar on an R32 GTR crank? Is there anywhere particular where i should put the set screws? My machinist asked me, cant seem to find any info elsewhere... and i searched for the pic... but couldnt find it.

Tried getting them from PE and they are backordered until at least mid june. I don't care what country they come from. Here are the numbers. MAIN 2 X 1102MN216 6 X 1102MN213 2 X 1102MN214 2 X 1102MN215 MAIN THRUST 2 X 1103MN213 ROD 10 X 1101MN215 2 X 1101MN214

When i removed my cams from my GTR the other day, a few of the bolts were stuck in the caps, I am sure i could get them out if I backed them out with a wrench... but what would cause this? I unbolted the cams carefully, gradually and in sequence... Should I be worried?

Thank you for the info sydneykid. I was planning on buying the guides, lifters, retainers and springs, as well as OEM valves. I see that JUN makes a cam kit. Perhaps I will get that.

Hey mates, I tried searching on this, but after sifting through 75 threads about putting rb26 cams into RB25/RB20's I am at a loss... Looking for a good cam profile for this setup: Probably Would go with Tomei or Jun Cams RB26 Single GT3040R Wiseco Pistons (8.0 CR) Pauter Rods Tomei Valve springs and retainers (Type B or C) Jun Main and Head Bolts Jun Valve Guides Looking to make alot of top end power. 700HP or so. I was thinking about the tomei procams 270 duration X 10.25 Lift On Both the intake and exhaust. From reading a few threads, I understand i will need to grind the head for cam clearance. I also understand that i should be OKAY with piston clearance. Summary of questions: 1) 270 x 10.25 lift ok? 2) Will I need Solid Lifters? 3) Type B or C valve Springs? 4) Does this require valve relief on the pistons?

Tried turning it over today (cranked with no fuel) But i wasnt reading any oil pressure... so i disconnected the oil pressure sending unit from the block. No flow. What the hell could it be? Any ideas? I cranked it for about a total of 60 seconds. Could it not be priming? Is there a chance the oil pump drive gear is cracked? I am going to compression check tommorow. Is there a way i can prime it?

Well, this is supposed to be an r33 engine... but i am guessing it is an r32... I cant find any solid information on the differences. Anyway: It is a gt3040R, 24 x 11 x 3 FMIC, emanage, profec e-01, 2 X Z32 maf. I need injectors and fans. Wiring will be done this week... I hope. I might be hanging out here alot for that.

Well, this is supposed to be an r33 engine... but i am guessing it is an r32... I cant find any solid information on the differences. Anyway: It is a gt3040R, 24 x 11 x 3 FMIC, emanage, profec e-01, 2 X Z32 maf. I need injectors and fans. Wiring will be done this week... I hope. I might be hanging out here alot for that.