brett33

The 300zx is actually sitting in my drive way in perfect running condition and it is a twin turbo job. The reason I'm not sure about this one is as you guys said the orange sticker as well as the wire colours described elsewhere on these forums being different too. Thanks for the info so far guys. Regards Brett

Hi people I have a 1989 300ZX I'm going to pull the AFM off and put on my R33. The R33 seems to have the 3 wire series 2 plug. Now my problem is having done a lot of searching on SAU about Z32 AFM's the wire colours of the one I'm about to pull off seem different to everything else I've seen. Is this the right type of Z32 afm to use on my skyline or have I got the wrong type. The writting on the side of the afm is as follows 22680 300P00 A36000 N62 9Y17A Cheers guys any help would be greatly appreciated!

I had similar prob............... siliconed bottoms of all coils, gapped to 0.6 mm. Now runs 17psi 250rwkw no worries.

Think it says here to let it idle for half hour to learn idle http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm

There are no chains involved in the lashing of cars on board ships. And I'm yet to see a chain used to lash a car on a truck.

Hi,do these X-Force cats have any sort of EPA or DOT approval? If they do I am very interested. Thanks Brett

About 3NM difference when you calculate Kg/Nm. Stuff all i would say. And about half the price to double the HP of your RB25!

Is't it funny how people think turbo cars don't make any real torque (grunt). Not sure how they think it can make power without torque when Power= Torque x Rpm. Even an RB25 has a useable power (torque) band of 5000 rpm. And as for towing..... thats why "sydneykid"pulled the rb25 out of his Stagea and stuck in a chev big block to tow the race cars... NOT !

They are permanently crimped in. Not replaceable.

Ya can't over haul the uni's. They're not replaceable. You're up for a new shaft. I had the last one made one piece. Saved 150 bux by doing that. Cost me $450

These dyno graphs............... are they done with pump gas? Are those 4 sec 1/4's you quote done on pump gas? Just curious. Not sure about the apple orange thing.

Hi, I really can't understand how it could be the fuel pump. At 100kph my car used to (with stock injectors) run at 6 to 7% injector duty cycle. Not a lot of work for the fuel pump I would think. I did also have AFM problems but was flat out getting to 40kph and 2500rpm. Which is about the stock ecu limp mode.

I'll tell ya why. Cause the bastard scares shite out of me and tries to maim me everytime I drive it. I need time to recover between drives. At least my $hitebox has a turbo though.

Its your timing belt. Time to change it.

Sorry sold guys

It comes with a stand,no lines or anything else they stayed in my white car sorry. The No.s are green and the needle is orange with lights. Location is Brisbane south side. Brett

Hi, I have this HKS boost gauge I'd like to sell. It works perfectly I just have a couple spare now. Its white face 2 1/2 inch and 2 bar. I'm hoping to get $70 + postage for it. Let me know what you think. Regards Brett

Its wire 53 on the ecu. just cut it if you've got a manual R33

Argh that would be fantastic if you could do that. Its just the plug with the yellow, white,green,orange and pink wires going into the control module under the dash. Thanks Brett

Yeah, it is the id3.

Hi guys, I'm parting with one of my cars this week so one of the first jobs was to remove my Blitz SBC-iD Boost Controller. Unfortunatley with a combination of being in a hurry and couple of drinks under my belt I accidently ripped the wires from the plug that runs from the display unit to the control module. Is there any chance someone might be able to tell me (or a photo) the wire colour sequence of the plug where it enters the control module? Any help at all would be great. Thanks Brett

You really do have a comprehension problem don't you knuckle head! Lost count of how many posts you've misinterpreted. What I'm saying dickbrain is that you have supposedly doubled your torque but only increased your powrer by 35%. How is this possible or is that you are full of crap and know very little about physics, dynos or engines. You're the wanker here pal!

Correct me if I'm wrong but is this the sphincter of the universe trying to tell us he has increased the power out put of his car by roughly 35% but increased his torque out put by more than 100%!! I'm not sure but when power = torque * rpm i can't seem to work out why his power is so low.

Well dip shit if you know so much about chassis dynos then you better up your rev limiter to above the 3000rpm you must have it set at now. Then you can make a power figure to match your your "torque figure" You must be thick man! The figire on your dyno sheet is tractive effort. Related to but nothing like your engine torque you clown. I can only guess from your figures you've had it on an engine dyno with a 3k rev limit. Imagine the power mate if you let it rev. Do the sums you'll be impressed!!

Please Mr Xrt can you tell me how you recorded your 1000 nm of torque. If it was from the rear wheels of your car on a dyno then you are sadly mistaken. The "torque" figure you get from a dyno is not your RW torque in NM. Please do some investigation if this is what you are quoting.