js_gtr

Not 100% sure as I haven't checked the part numbers, but it was purchased via an Australian distributor and installed by Centreline in Thomastown, so I'm assuming it's Aus spec. I don't like cars setup with incredibly stiff suspension and prefer the more feedback and less drifting/skating that a compliant balanced setup will give. For someone who likes a very stiff setup /rant on because it makes them feel like they're driving a sports car, impresses mates, etc /rant off (or gets driven more often on the track than the road), then my car on 0/0 may be too soft, and a Tein Flex derivative may be a better bet. Also remember that the values I have mine set to, are a) what I like and b) suited to my car which has, to name a few differences Midori camber arms Adjustable castor bars HD Adjustable Whiteline swaybars Semicomp tyres Jamie

This has happend to me before and it was simply that the power steering fluid had run low, and accelerating and braking caused the reservoir level to fluctuate. I also had a case where the screws came loose in the HICAS computer and bounced around and shorted the circuit boards. The replacement computer's screws got a good dose of loctite! Taking it to Nissan and getting it plugged into a consult will let you know if there is anything wrong. I wouldn't however say that the light coming on was normal... Jamie

A mate who knew nothing about cars bought a S2 RX-7 at an auction, then came by to show me his cool car... The conversation started like this... Me: You bought a rotary! Him: What's a rotary...? He learnt quite quickly that if he missed services stuff broke, and I can remember a $1k+ bill to re run all the oil lines. It was quite thirsty from memory, but a shed load of fun to drive and always had classic looks. My favourite rotary quote : "Rotaries, great to drive, not to own" Jamie

I like the HKS GT-SS: - Similar to factory. BUT: - Steel wheels so you can run more boost. - Ball bearing to spool faster and to offset the loss of the ceramic exhaust wheel. - More modern design to give better boost characteristics. - Larger exhaust housing to give more top end. Nice looking car btw. Jamie

Found it, very cool and pretty much as expected... Car = Braking and Corners // Bike = Acceleration There is a good "Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera VS Ducati 1098" video too... outcome the same. Probably means that the R35 and the Lambo are pretty damn close too. Jamie

I'll go out of my way to get nice cars to take off just to hear them The R35 is a lovely sounding vehicle btw... Doesn't matter whether I'm in the gtr (r32) on the bike or in the daily. Although the bike does seem to be the thing that the faster cars are happiest racing. I'd like to see a 1098r vs R35 race. Jamie

I have Aus spec Super Streets in my R32 GTR, paid the extra $400 to get the in cabin adjustment. Ride height is lowered 20mm Full hard = 0 Full Soft = 16 Front / Rear 0 / 0 = Stupid, never use it except for giggles 2 / 4 = Really smooth track use 6 / 8 = Smooth roads I know well 10 / 12 = Normal every day setting 16 / 16 = Where I know the roads are bad, larger kerbs etc. Jamie

On the R32 if an AFM problem is detected the ECU will limit the engine to 3,000 rpm. Jamie

I'm running some Bridgestone RE540's on the R32 atm, Brilliant dry grip - 10+/10 Normal wet weather grip - 7/10 Price 225 x 50 x 16 - $280 (on closeout) The thing is that they are great on smooth roads, but due the the very stiff sidewalls and ~2 degrees of neg, they tramtrack badly over uneven surfaces and will unsettle the front through uneven roundabouts. I will be going back to a less rigid semi for my next purchase. Probably a Toyo RA1, my fav previous tyre, not quite as much dry grip as the Bridgestones (still far more than a street tyre), but better wet grip and a softer sidewall. Jamie

Heya, what colour sticker is the AFM? and how much would shipping be to Melbourne. Thanks Jamie