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Ah gotcha. Sorry, don't know anything about the Sat Nav units you describe. Didn't know they existed! Check fuses in case one blew when you cut the wires. You might need to multimeter the wires you cut if it is still an elusive problem. I can't seem to find much on the wiring for the sat nav. Check for voltage at relay and fuses and work your way back.

This was in my GTT. I haven't checked out the wires going into the MFD (if that's what you're referring to) on my GTR. This ^ If it stopped working exactly as you did this, check the pin out diagrams. MFD Info: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=166053 (from here: ) My alarm basically bypassed the standard relay and fuses for indicators. So that can mislead you. Maybe check related fuses and then get a relay tester or another relay to test with.

Tested the new replacement relay. It does not work. Tested old relay. working but low voltage. Cleaned connectors and bent copper to make better contact. Working. TLDR; Relay was partially faulty, so was new relay. I can drive my car again! After putting back together the entire dash hahaha! I'm just happy I know what it is now.

Today I had another detailed look under the dash. I found a small fuse box going to the alarm with 2 fuses. a 5 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it with another 5 amp. It blew when alarm lit the indicators for 1/2 a second. Put in a 10 amp fuse now and the indicators work with the alarm! The indicators still do not work with the stalk or hazard switch. I pulled out the hazard switch and connected it without the air vents. It makes a singular tick on the relay when depressed so it seems it still works. Still no indicators. I removed the black box mounted in front of the flasher relay and check inside. All seemed okay. Just a smaller black box. No burns or smells. What is in the brown relay thing? I'm starting to think maybe the alarm is causing the issue...

Thanks mad. I did replace the head unit a few months ago. Could be likely. I figured it could be a loose connection but the fact it still controls the relay made me look past it. Ill check on the weekend :-). Has anyone got a wiring diagram inclusive of indicators? Ive seen a few but not one that details indicators.

If you feel inclined you may be able to replace rhe guts of your old relay. This way you can keep the mount point and nice neat connector. I am interested to see how you go. :-)

Pop your head up under the drivers footwell and you shouldn't see a whole lot... grab a light and look for a black relay on the door side of the steering column. To help you can flick on your indicators and you will hear and feel it clicking. Unplug it to confirm that its the correct one. :-)

Fuses are all good. Funnily enough, I armed the alarm, hit the hazzard button and the indicators came on and went off and now cease to function when the alarm is armed... but all fuses are still okay... wtf???!! Someone somewhere said something about an indicator controller... where/what is it?

I just removed the NILES IF332 OEM flasher relay and when I opened it it had burn spots on the plastic. It looks like a piece of metal broke off and shorted... I placed a Tridon EP35 in to replace but it made no difference yet. The relay still works though. I will check fuses as that seems likely.

R34 GTT 1998 My indicators have just stopped working as I got to work today. Hazzard lights dont work either. However my alarm works just fine and unlocking/locking the car with the alarm lights them up. Depressing the hazzard lights button I hear the relay click once under the steering wheel. When the alarm ticks the indicators, it seems that it is slightly faster than usual... not a broken indicator though - Maybe it bypasses the relay? - i dont know... I can't find the fuse for the indicators, but the fact the alarm runs them fine makes me think this is not an issue, unless the alarm bypasses the fuse and relay. Any tips? Thanks

Compressor surge is not healthy.

Wow, just saw this thread. It was an epic read and your 33's interior will be the best ive seen! The flocking and retrim look awesome. You must be pretty wrapped with the outcome so far. If it was me, I would be more impatient to get it all back together and running. But hey, doing it properly is better than rushing it. btw, your handbrake has a foreskin.. LOL!

I hear the ceramics are much more sensitive to heat and the main cause of failure in them.

This is amazing! Keep the pictures coming! looks great!

Cheers for the responses. I have found Kermit on Facebook and will get in contact with him. Does anyone have an exhaust system by him?

Life-time Panel filer. Never needs to be replaced . I would recommend the cleaning kit for it also.

We sent some stuff from work, registered express to QLD. Took 3 weeks. Christmas period does suck for postage.

^ This

I would be furious too if I had a spoiler (Then had it ripped off!). I really hope you get it repaired at their cost.

This thread is relevant to my interests. Would like to see how it all goes!

I'm looking for a turbo back exhaust system with a tip that looks like the standard double tip as I'm not a fan of the Milo tins. Does anyone have any experience with the pre built systems out there or should I get one made?

Well I have wired up the new lights and checked and double checked them. Funnily enough my car was flat, thus 9v from the connectors. Now it is outputting about 11.7v. The 4 pin is setup as +==+ -==- Low beam is the left side, high beam is the right side. Independent earth for the HIDs. If you are swapping in Halogens, you will need to earth them separately.

I have worked out the connector pin outs with a multimeter now. The 4 pin, is 3 pos an 1 neg. I think there is Highbeam from the + on the right side and both or one for low beam. +==+ +==- Can someone further clarify what each of the 4 pins are for on the connector? The 3 pins look to be like the power for the leveling motor on lights. The 2 pin connector looks like parking lights + and -. They all output around 9v. I thought they are supposed to be 12v

I have tried searching for the guide to convert the lights but I cannot find it! My R34 had HIDs and I am fitting Halogen style lights for compliance. Can anyone help me with the pin outs for the connectors? It looks like the HIDs use a 4 pin style and the Halogens use a 3 pin style. I *assume* it looks like an extra negative but can't be sure. It also looks like the 3 pins are for the adjustment (pos up, pos down, negative or something). Can anyone help me confirm? Also if anyone has done this before any help is appreciated! Pic: HID connector pre ballast, Motor adjustment, indicator.

Here is a thread with details about them not particularly a guide on installing them. I'm sure you have probably seen it, but it can't hurt linking it again as it is good. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Summary-Front-Mount-Inte-t190267.html