51jay

I have one ..pm me with offer if interested

If you'r still looking..I have a pair of rear Brembo callipers

Iff you'r still looking ...I have a pair of rear Brembo Callipers

Is the R33 workshop manual for the GTST or the GTR and is it for the whole car or just Engine. Car sounds nice ...might see you at QR some time.

I believe the GTR and GTST rotors are a different thickness with the GTST being slightly thicker, so you'd have to swap the callipers along with the rotor

On the scrutineering scale at QR my R33 4 door with 1/2 tank of fuel and 63Kg driver on board came in at 1565Kg

You'll get nowhere with a rubber mallot you need to shock it free if you'r not going to cut it, use the little heavy hammer

anywhere from 14.4sec to 11.5 sec depending on how well you can drive it on the strip :burnout:

Any one else ??

I have stripped out the interier down to the metal all parts are in excellent condition including sideglass and motors and airbag steering wheel. I have no idea of values and am not interested in any auctions so if you want something make a reasonable offer. please respond to my e-mail [email protected] as i'm now on dialup at around 12 to 14Kbps so won't be looking at this site very often

I'm interested..... how Much??

I got 1 set from Revolution racegear and another from Autobarn about $4.50 each bolt

www.customcarbon.com.au Quality is good ,prices are reasonable....do not confuse these with those from UAS,Carmate etc. These are a carbon fibre foam sandwich construction and are 1/2 the weight and 10times as strong.

I have 1 set left used but in good condition, buyers of the other sets say they clean up well. $75. can bring to Syd 10th Sept.

airbag or not

I have one in fact I have a complete system from radiator back

In English??

160kw at the rear wheels of the white echo chamber, hmmm ...lets see now...mumble mumble, that's aprox 13/25 of a Melve :bahaha:

Yo Theo You'd better check out HPI...they have got it wrong. The white car did 160rwkw minus the muffler at the Mercury Skylines shootout today....not bad for a stocky! http://www.hpi.com.au/drag_records.php

Quote...it seems like either HPI have quoted the wrong tyres or he did use them __________________ Seems like they quoted the wrong track too He ran that time at the Jamboree in March this year at the Sydney track. Mick and I were there but we didn't race. I guess we need a word from Theo.

Just a point.......Theo doesn't and never has run on Nittos...He's always used Federal street tyres....possibly why Federal is now a major sponsor along with Castrol.

At 100K it is time to replace the timing belt and it is good practise to replace the waterpump at the same time. you only need replace the fuel pump if it's failing. If oil pressure is low it is more likely main and big end bearings rather than the oil pump

On rereading this thread I get the impression that you are trying to put in the spring and strut befor they have been bolted together. If you havn't got it sorted yet post exactly which nuts you removed and in what order to remove the strut assembly

Not quite sure what you'r on about here?? To change springs Under the bonnet undo the two strut retaining nuts, then undo the bottom retaining nut. Remove complete strut/spring from car. Hold strut in a benchvise and use spring compressors to remove and replace spring. replace completestrut/spring in car there is no use for spring compressors when replacing the unit in the car. If you have changed from a short spring to a stock one you will have to lever down the wheel hub to get enough clearence for the strut to bolt back on. Push the strut up into position and loosely do up the 2 top nuts then force the hub down until the bottom end can be slipped onto the pin. tighten the bottom nut then get the car off the stands and tighten the 2 top nuts