51jay

His prices have allways been very reasonable, Sounds like he is saying....not worth repairing

Hmmm! things are starting to get interesting. Good one Squizz.

Double declutching eg from 4th to third........clutch in-into neutral-clutch out- bring revs up to match your current road speed- clutch in-into 3rd-clutch out mostly used when downchanging, Your clutch will live a long and happy life. Flat changing- go pedal flat to the floor-hold it there while you change gear. Your clutch will die very young.

They look ok on the ford but in the flesh ,so to speak, they look heavy and sort of stodgy....don't have the finesse required for a Skyline

BullSh*t!! RB25DET....stock everything except fmic and exhaust isn't going to be anywhere near 185rwkw it would be around 130 to 135rwkw at the most. It has the potential for about 180 to 200rwkw but you would have to do a lot more than that to it.

That front wheel looks very dead to me!!... place to find out for sure is Chris Neale at Wheel Revolution in Slacks Creek 07 3209 2833

NGK Irriways are pregapped to 0.7mm

I've just aquired a pair of Pirelli P Zero D5 245/645-18 full slicks approx 40% wear also a pair of Dunlop F145 230/640-18 slicks 50% wear directional. Does anyone have any info on these tyres like where do they fit in the hi'erarchy of racing tyres and what is the optimal and also allowable wheel width for them. I only have 8" and 9" wheels in 18"

2rismo : Hope you'r going to post the offsets when you find them it would be really useful. It would be good if everyone who posted a wheel and tyre size that fits ok on their car would include the offset because without it the info is useless. Its about time we got a sticky going with these including the offset. eg: What is the stock wheel size Diam, width and offset for the GTR 32,33,34.

You weren't there at supper time. And thats not the ocean ,it's Kepple Bay...it's an estuary...that's why the beaches are pretty useless. On the ocean side of Kepple Island it's a different story though.

I don't know anything about the ORC twin plates.....but that sounds like a very good price. If you go ahead with it will you post up your impressions of it.

I think a little explanation would be in order!!!

Who's been a naughty boy then?? I'm not a fan of punishing the kids in public. but for you I'll make an exception :wassup:

The igniter is the rectangular box located on top of the head at the rear, up against the firewall, sometimes it's actually on the firewall. About 4ins x3ins x1ins deep

I have the G Max twin plate in my R33 GTS25T I assume the actual feel of the clutch would be similar in the GTR though I think your's would be Pull type as against my push type. It feels the same weight as standard but the take up is much more abrupt ie its either in or it's out. Forget about slipping the clutch as you engage.....until you've had a fair bit of practice there just isn't time... and it's not good to slip them either. look forward to a few embarrassing stalls "til you get used to it. Once you've got it sorted out though it's really good...I won't be going back to the normal type. They are supposed to be rattly in neutral and I think the OS Giken is, but mine is not. To sum up I think they are good for about 600hp and much better than going the heavy duty singe plate.

I have a C's short shifter in my R33. I've been racing, dragging and general driving it for 2 years now and the gearbox is still fine....so don't blame the short shifter. I'm with MarkG the throw is shorter but the lever itself is still too long

Probably need to contact us closer to the big day but we have R33 4 door and R32 4 door both silver and yes we can help out Addit: This might be better in the Queensland Forum

I would suggest dropping down to 4th in that particular situation..even 3rd if your feeling toey

Dropping the pressures in the rears does help with more grip during the launch and putting 40 to 45psi in the front will give less rolling resistance. I would have 16 or 17psi in the back.The 225 50's should bag up relatively well and it's not low enough to risk rolling the tyre on the rim. It's your first run..launch the same as you would if trying really hard at the traffic lights, then on subsequent runs you launch harder or softer depending on what kind of 60ft you got. Have a good time ....it's a blast edit: rev 210 got in while I was 2 finger typing ......and pretty much covered it

I disagree. As I said I have one of the Nismo.com bonnets and I really think they are a liability on a street car. They are just too weak in all directions, even though mine has the extra lockdowns at the front I seriously doubt it would stay with the car in any kind of a bingle it would just rip off all it's attachment points. The carbon/foam sandwich would be very much better in these respects and for the couple of hundred over the cheapie ....a very much better buy. Still...you gotta admit...ours look good though

Are you running stock exhaust ? why no bov?...you need it. Which OEM ECU is it If it's R33 you can't tune it and I don't think it will cope very well with the Q45 throttlebody, Greddy Manifold and fmic. I assume it's the R33 stock turbo. Your idling problems sound like a malfunctioning AAC valve or you could try running through the ECU learning process a couple of times or 3. My R33 with many performance mods in place is currently making about 160rwhp instead of near 300 and it is entirely due to it's current state of tune or I should say lack of tune. The first thing you need to do is get it on a dyno and see where you'r at .....I think you'll need an aftermarket ECU to utilise your current and future mods. Brouse the Teck forums here and at WWW.skylinesdownunder.com for heaps of info

Your best bet would be to deal directly with Japan, perhaps via one of the Australian import services such as Prestige Imports...there are many others

I doubt all your packs have failed at once. I believe they are fired sequentially...did you set your program for this??

The Nismo.com Bonnets are carbon top with fibreglass undernieth. I have their type 2 on mine. I don't believe they are strong enough for street use, you just have to lean on them and they crack, also they weigh 10Kg against the 18Kg of the stock bonnet. My next bonnet will be from Custom Carbon in Bris. Carbon both sides of a sandwich of 6MM foam. Weight 4Kg and strong enough to stand on about $1600 with the vents I want....similar to my current one

$22000 on top of $17000 for the stock standard car