51jay

It might be a piece of cake to fit......but how do you reatach it and the sender back to the car. I did the swap allright , incidently the "ugraded" pump in situ is apparrantly a VN pump it's about 2/3 the size of the stocky and just couldn't hack it. I spent about 2 hours trying to fit the pump back in but just couldn't figure it out so they are just sitting in there ( the way they were when I opened the tank up) Got the 040 pump through my local Aussie Auto for $290 Alderly store, 2 hours from phone order to pick up. addit: Incidently the 040 fuel outlet contains a one way valve, even if you remove this the inside diameter of the outlet is only about 3.2mm. I assume everyone does as I did and threw the whole thing away replacing it with an outle inside diam 8mm. Maybe this is why SydneyKids quoted output is so much higher than the Bosch site's figures

The Vl is different the AAC looks like front half of the Skyline one and the fast idle control is different . Col-GTSX.... where in Japan were you going to get one??

You could try Zoom at Wynnum 07 33486939.....small chance though. If you don't mind what's the place in Japan for a new one ,I need one for my R33. Other place you might try is Cresta at Capalaba 07 32451555 , All Jap at Virginia 07 3865 2221. I don't know how interchangeable these are between models but I heard that the VL one fits the RB20 and 25DET. If yours is an Aust spec R31 I guess you ring every wrecker in the book that mentions Nissan. Good luck

You can get a good quality carbon bonnet made in Bris for $1300 to $1700 depending on what extra venting you get on it. Wgt for the street version between 4 and 5Kg and plenty strong enough so you don't have to worry about people leaning on it

Thanks Mark.....that was......interesting

" am I doing anything that could be potentially bad 4 da WasteGate/Turbine?" The sort of question it's good to ask befor rather than after Well you've found out what it does, it's ok to leave it out or you can put it back in if you don't like the result

MicK51: hmm well that was pretty lame, where on earth did they find that pommy commentator! Only one breif glimps of marios car . Highlight was the in car video of Mark Ashford putting his 200SX in the wall, hit so hard he bent the steering wheel!

MicK51: http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/cgi-bin/TV/de...&time=9%2e30+pm Will be from WSID, this is the one mario raced GTR700 in!!!

What's the ambient temp in the engine bay like when the oil starts to run hot. if you can get the engine environment temp down it may help. Didn't 'Godzilla' have coolers on just about everything

Hi performance!! HaHa!!......Try adding a couple more doors :wassup:

It looks like it would if it was burning a lot of oil but it's white instead of black. It's on the central ceramic, the tip only, of the central electrode and all over the other 4 electrodes ( Bosch super 4)

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Sparkplug.jpg Got a very heavy light grey to white deposit on one plug only rest are clean, Anyone know what this indicates

Check all the usual things Quality of radiator fluid, are you losing any? Thermostat fully opening? system retaining right pressure? waterpump not too wornout? condition of radiator interior ,hoses and water passeges? oil cooler? theres a start

It used to be BP Ultimate....but not anymore, After 6 months of standing with a half tankful I personally would drain it and stick it in the wife's Camry, At the very least fill it up with 98Octane before you go anywhere.

Sounds like you "broke" something else aswell

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Fron...hrottlebody.jpg The foil backed foam is fine and doesn't transfer as much engin bay heat as a hard box. Best to use a double layer of foam though. I use stuff with foil one side self adhesive the other. Makes a box 20mm thick foam with foil inside and out

Nah! Squizz is predudiced (for good reason) Krawler is probably right, whilst not exactly the end of the world (??Mount Morgan??) they'r not far from it

MicK51: look for 2 threaded holes near the wheel studs, find a bolt that will screw in and then screw em both in and tighten evenly, u should see the disc start to seperate from the hub. There is nothing holding that disc on except the handbrake pads (which is basicly a drum brake), those pads are spring loaded so they push against the inside of the hub and make it hard to pull off. DO NOT UNDO BIG 36mm NUT!

Yeah!!......but in a hot car

Maybe to Renae......but not to anyone else ......actually ...you might want to check that out with Renae too :wassup:

Well i've finally organised myself to get it tuned....will be up at Bundaberg on Sat for a good dyno session....so....when I get back .....bring it on New Jay!! due to my kindly genteel nature...we won't be racing for Rego Papers :wassup:

mumble mumble..... young whippersnappers....mumblemumblemumble...bloody cars with not enough doors...mumblemumblemumble.....Zzzzzzzzzzz

^mick: yeah took me and jay a while to figure how to get the injectors out. its pretty easy though, just loosen the 2 bolts that hold that top cup and take one bolt out, then flip the cup over and pull out the injector. its heaps easier if u pull the rail out but be carefull not to break the little plastic clips on the squirter part of the injector.

^mick: wtf man!, u sure u hooked the oil lines up! did u take it back?

^MicK