51jay

hey james hows ya car going?

Willowbank and or Queensland Raceway.......whenever you'r ready

Sorry to be an a*sehole but your mate sounds like a bit of a d*ckhead 8months ago!!! he bought a car that had obviously had big time repairs. Now a 4x4 writes him off so he wants to sue the dealer???. Would be a pretty safe bet that he didn't get the 4x4's rego.

Because big hp numbers seem to impress a lot of people regardless of how drivable the car is. Stock torque is I think 294Nm at 4800rpm If you want a Very quick Skyline that will kill most others but not it's own mechanical bits and pieces aim for an engine that puts out as close to 400Nm as you can get between 2500 and 6500 rpm

(the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken.) 6 or 7psl would be more accurate. 7mmhg is about 14.5psi. and the only line between 0 and 7 is halfway inbetween. B est advice I can give you is.......... 1) STOP making assumptions 2) Forget all the advice you've just read in this thread 3) Search this forum to find a "well thought of workshop" 4) Go to them before you do anything else stupid

Yep I've still got it, it's on the car at the moment but still in it's origional grey gelcoat and it's still for sale

Pic 1 if that socket is mounted on the crossmember under and behind the oil filter...the red wire goes to side nearest to the side of the engine bay. Pic 2 & 3 the lead goes to the front post at the front inside corner of the relay box the earth goes to chasis rail directly undernieth , the 2 plugs are clipped onto the lower front of the relay box, pic 4 The fuel line from the filter goes to the pipe which runs round to the rear of the fuel rail...it should be the top one. bottom pipe comes from the pressure equaliser at the front of the fuel rail Pic 5 2 wiring sockets are clipped onto this bracket (Grey) 1 6 pin and 1 8 pin, the 8 pin socket is hanging in front of it

What do you open a rar file with?? what's the car, what's the motor

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Blac...0Bar2%20(1).jpg These ones look ok, they are good solid quality and use real globes not those nasty festoon things. They cost $40 each they are a trailer light,

Oh Dear!! Check out Repco or better still your local Aussie Autos for a price on a couple of cartons of them .....you should get a very good price

Can't comment on your mechanic's comments re the high discharge stuff, however the battery area is vented to air because it is in the boot, any battery can produce gasses. As far as I know ...the Skyline power requirements are no more than any other modern car with fuel inj, power everything and air con etc.

They work together ok in mine and the RSM is well worth keeping. I usually have mine set to show revs and speed with an ongoing peak hold for both, And a speed warning at 115kph

You can get them from UAS in Sydney....Pricey though $150 each. Check the bar carefully before you pay for it . Those lights are a push in...twist to lock idea and if the bar is not well made in these areas you are in for some hassles. The holes for the lights must be the right size with 3 cutouts , glass should be about 3 to 4mm thick around the holes. My bar failed miserably in this area ...amongst others. Good Luck

Hmmmm! how did you have it secured on?? can you get it off?? if so put it face down on a hard block with some towel or something under it to protect it.....then some gentle panel beating with a light Flat faced hammer, only hit the back of the badge. Good luck

The HICAS system on the Skylines only moves the rear wheels a couple of degrees in either direction. It only activates over 80 Kph when exiting corners hard. In the R32 it is hydraulic and the R33 Electronic controlled by a separate computer in the boot. There are no CV joints or similar

vrs kit=Complete kit of gaskets for rebuilding top end of motor

(looking around nervously) GOOD GRIEF!!!! this place is full of postwhores!!!! ( jumps in his Silver Skyline and roars off)

Going by the experiences I've had with "made in China" router and drill bits I wouldn't use a turbo made there.....maybe in 10 or 15 years

If the adjustment screws are not broken they are adjustable, I'm not familiar with R31s but I'm guessing they are much the same as R32,R33 in which case the adjustment is an integral part of the headlight assembly so if they won't adjust ....yes..you will need new headlights....but....check with someone who knows R31s before you spend

Watts is the amount of power it pulls

do a search of this forum we went into this in painful detail not so long ago

seems strange??? all headlights I've known are adjustable up/down and side to side, maybe he meant the adusters are broken... not unusual in post '80 cars where the mechanism is usually plastic. This was the case in my R33

It's the power it takes 12V 10Ws pulls 0.8 Amps. 12V 0.5Ws pulls 0.04Amps

Any Nissan dealer should be around $30 to $50 you will need other gaskets too if you'r taking the head off

Custom Carbon prices are pretty reasonable (for real carbon fibre) and I like the way they construct their panels, especially the bonnet and bootlids. They will be doing boot,bonnet and frontbar for my 4 door.