51jay

RB26DETT as opposed to RB25DET, ECU, Instrument cluster is dif, seats, other trim bits. I think the ATTESSA set up might be different, the drive train might be beefed up on the GTR

Clutch life is not measured in months or years......but in how much abuse it gets. sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when you push the peddle in . Chech the fluid reservoir first If you have fluid could be failed master or slave cylender. You can check the slave yourself, its on the drivers side of the gearbox at the front. Jack the side of the car up and have a look while someone works the clutch.... you should see the lever moving.

Who makes the sidewinder?? what operating system have you got??

As far as I can see they cut off airflow through the grill to the radiator. $150 ??? it is so easy to make yourself if you want one. cut a template from cardboard and transfer it to a piece of alum sheet from your local hardware about 0.8mm about $12. You can cut the stuff with heavy duty scissors. For Brissy people i've got template for R33 GTS25T

I'm back behind the wheel again and minus crutches most of the time so i'll be there to keep mick in line

Nice knowing you Marty.... be sure to get in touch when you return. We'll be interested to see your 5.7L....at the strip???

count me in

$1500???? Skyline????

Unique Auto Sports http://www.nismo.com.au

Surely the wastegate has to be at least partially open making it take a lot longer to get to full boost

Mine did that too never did find out why but it was the main reason I went over to the Audi DIY..... Make sure the wastegate is held fully shut and check for gasket leaks.

I eventually took the solenoid out otto I'd be looking at the wastegate actuator first... is it being held fully closed ......you might be surprised!! also leaks in the gaskets turbo to dump, manifold to turbo and head to manifold. I now only use genuine Nissan gaskets for these after months of problems with boost stability.

Nissan Aus don't stock lots of Skyline stuff but it's usually available ex Japan average delivery time appears to be 2 weeks or less....try a different Nissan dealer

Sounds interesting......but i'm allready in for Jamboree....pity about the clash of dates

Can you post a pic of you'r setup I've built 3 of these setups... 2 using the better quality BIT micro regulater valve as in part 2 of the articles. We haven had any problems with 2 of them but my car has always been a bit unstable...developed 1Bar 1st and 2nd 1.2Bar in third 1,35Bar in 4th and 5th. However I had ongoing problems with gasket leaks (all three) and also felt that the w/g actuator was unreliable + I was using a very unimpressive hi-flowed turbo. What boost do you get with the regulator turned all the way clockwise and the relief valve all the way ANTIclockwise. this is a starting point, Also is yout Factory solanoid still in the circuit or still plugged in.

Which turbo do you have and have you spent any time setting up and fine tuning you'r boost controller. To get the boost on as early as possible you need to ensure that the wastegate is held shut until around your max boost value

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...32&page=2&pp=40 link is to middle of thread in for sale private, guys dad has them machined up ....expensive but a very classy bit of work.

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Pod%...20can%20005.jpg Link is to pic of a good quality catchcan that should actually work. The inlet extends to the bottom of the can, the outlet is from the top. Oil tainted air is admitted to the bottom of the can and exits from the top on the way up the wire mesh helps to condense out the oil. You need to empty the can from time to time depending on how much oil you'r blowing through

Can you see inside it?? does the inlet pipe go down to the bottom of the can?? what does it use to help the oil condense out?? Stainless steel wire mesh inside the can??

well whatever it is i've got one

No pics of front bar it is a 400R copy from UAS, it is on the car at the moment, unpainted. PM me your phone no. if you want to check it out

My guess is it would do just as good if not better than the Apexi in terms of control of the set boost. it does not have any of the extra functions of the electronic boosters except to control "how the boost comes on" ps Hope to find out for myself towards the end of the month.

Got mine from Zoom Auto Imports at Wynnum, 07 3348 6939 cost just over $500 each..new.

I think dAVE had some for sale also

Take off the hose from the rocker cover to the inlet piping, Replace it with hose from rocker cover to inlet of the Cusco. If you want to stay legal put a hose from outlet of the Cusco to the inlet piping. If you care not about legality don't put the last hose in. However if there is any oil atall going through the system it will very soon be all over your engine bay Leave all the other hoses alone. I believe that sensor is inlet air temp ??