mick51 and I will spectate for a couple of hours....both cars off the road....me off the road too.........thank the good son of rajab for auto rangerovers !!
It gives you more torque in low and mid range and then cuts out to give best power at top end. However you can't change the cut off point with the stock ECU and it is programmed to suit a stock as a rock motor. Obviously the optimum changeover point will vary with the amount of mods and state of tune of your particular motor. With most aftermarket ECUs you can set the cutoff point. When you have got it tuned as you want it you do a power run with it on then one with it off ,superinpose the 2 curves and where they intersect is the optimum cutoff point fot the best top middle and low range power and torque.
As Sydneykid often points out ....it's not the peak power figure, but the best usable power range that counts. If you don't believe that next time your at the drags do a run with and without it.
Mine is made of 1 layer outside 1mm alum sheet then 1 layer inside. The foam is a different composition. The clarke Rubber stuff was never meant to go in an engine bay.
Will be some time befor the car is running again, but i'll run the same measurements you did for a comparison. The 10mm of neoprene behind is probably your most effective layer
The clark rubber stuff is not very effective, a much better deal is similar stuff but self adhesive on the foam side from Insulation Supplies, 330 Curtin Ave West, Eagle Farm 07 3268 7399
http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Fron...hrottlebody.jpg
Well I got a VERY noticeble increase in low and midrange torque. Mine was retarded 4 degrees. These days if i'm just staying with traffic flow it never comes out of 4th til i get below about 1200 revs....though it doesn't pull well untill it's back up to 1800
Why do you think Qld decided to put speed cameras on overtaking lanes!!!!!!
You simply cannot get past unless you go well over 100Kph. In relation to speed cameras this is probably the most blatent case of pure revenue raising
Everyone...absolutely everyone ....who gets done in an overtaking lane should take it to court
Would't you just cut them off just befor they go under the firewall and use fuel hose and joiners to bring them back to your new location, I don't think any just vent to air
Thanks FORCE that looks just what I need......better placement of the cable bracket than i'd worked out too.
Steve: pulled one out of a Silvia....it was same length as the R33. Which one was quoted at $40 and bought for $20???
http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Fron...hrottlebody.jpg.
Anybody have any ideas what I can use for a throttle cable in this application. It needs to be about twivce as long as a stock R33 cable. Cable bracket will come off the bracket on the side of the head just below the oil fill cap.
Zoix......LOL mate...remember... it takes 2x2 doors to equal 1x4 door.....Not that 2x2 doors are actually the equal of 1x4 door.......but what the h*ll........we can afford to be magnaminous hehehehehehehehe!!
http://www.nismo.com.au
http://www.c-red.com.au/index.shtml
http://www.ksgarage.jp/
http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/
Ksgarage is Res who posts on these forums
Nengun is also well known and reliable
You get a lot more than the quoted 10 to 20 Kw with a swap to the RB25DET. There is a huge difference in the low and midrange torque and therefor general drivability.
I have frequently swapped from Mick's R32 into my R33 and in situations where I just leave mine in 3rd or even 4th since adding the adjustable cam gear I have to go to 2nd in the R32 just to stop it bogging down