It's in the fuel tank, You will find the access panel in the floor of the boot forward drivers side up behind theboot front panel. It's not hard to replace but tedious and fiddly. Know not how much they are
From UAS, unused, Will want to check fit befor sale ...so local only. $380.00........SOLD 25/3/04
400R front bar available,... same deal applies $350.00
I am in Brisbane....Enoggera
Easiest way to fix it is to just replace the whole instrument cluster which is a matter of unbolting things until you get down to it unplugging the old instrument cluster , plugging in the new and putting everything back in again... for me...a 30 or 40 minute job. If you can't get hold of one ,i've got one for $100 + postage
OK Iseenow, I got a 400R bar from UAS for my car slightly different to yours. You might want to actually see one befor you buy, needs a fair bit of fitting and finishing to look good
Not sure what you'r after have you got a series 2 or series 1 Skyline??. If series 1 you would need s2 bonnet and lights + some hacking of the front bar support. The top line of the s2 front bar is quite different to the s1
DBA definately have a listing for R33 there was a group buy on these forums not too long ago, I think it was the series 4000 Kangaroo paw. I think they only do the 33GTR in the series 5000
Isn't that the access hole for adjusting the handbrake up??. If you slacken off the handbrake you should be able to just pull the drum off the wheelstuds
As far as I know Nismo make them but you can only get replacement parts from Nismo and to do this you have to have a 400R. ALL the fibreglass Aussie ones are copies....some better quality than others but all glass and all only copies
http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/SAU%...rgan%20Park.jpg
Only 3 SAU cars turned up...a pity...it is very good value for money...as many laps as you like on the full track in 8 lap blocks. Just line up again when you ready. $80 for the whole day. no special licence required.
It started to rain midafternoon just as I was starting an 8 lap session and turned into a thunderstorm half way through. It was very entertaining avoiding the guys who had slicks.
An MGB with a new megabuck engine build put a con rod through the block.!!!
The jacking points at the front and rear of the sills can be seen if you look underneith
...a small rectangulat plate just inboard of the lip has a 8mm hole in it's centre.
trolley jack under the diff for rear or crossmember for front and stands under the sill jack points
to raise just one side of the car a length of 2x4 timber along the sill between the jack points but leaving enough room to place the stands when its up trolley jack under the timber at the balance point where the whole side of the car goes up evenly. Usually a few inches forward of the rear of the door....trial and error!!
If you havn't got trolley jack and at least 2 stands......you shouldn't be doing it.
The gap is about the same as it was on mine.
Helps if you have a friend
Longish about 6 ft 2x4 timber hook it up under the chassis rail whereever you can fit it and resting on top of the brake caliper.
friend levers down on this forcing the suspension arm and therby the bolt down to meet the shock eye.
you pop it on at the right time.
Invest in a trolley jack $80 for the 1800Kg one at supercheap
Repco equivalent is slightly better.
This job would be difficult for a lone worker with very limited experience
Good Luck