51jay

Can anyone say the specific differences between the N1 25DET and the run of the mill one

Anyone got a part no Bendix Ultimates for the RB33 GTS25T I'm sure it's on these forums or the SDU forums but I'm damned if I can find it . Also does anyone know anything about Platignum pads apparantly made here in Aust Thanks Jay

Well!! Benaraby definately sounds like THE place to be seen at How about it Cam??............... Should we??

BY BY Do you have a pic of the underneith of the bonnet??

ZOOM no 53 page 8 similar item from Advan in Sydney 029 647 1362 cost is $A308

My car is not an auto. My best time is 14.8 on Sat I was trying for a consistant 15.1. What do you think about a 2nd gear start I've thought about it . might give it a try this Sat. I could have cut my throat when I broke out!!!!! I was up against a Wrexxy who dialed in 14.6 and I thought I had a good chance of beating him

whatsisname You just pipped me my best 60ft is 2.197 for a 14.813 at 94mph. same tyres but only 167rwKw

I'd be happier if Mick didn't run low 14's in it 15.069 react 0.565 60ft 2.249 330ft 6.329 660ft 9.741 1000ft 12.636 ET 15.069 mph 91.50 my best time is 14.813 at 94.02mph

I've got P zero Rossi 245.40.17 on 9ins rims at the back and I can break traction any time I like in 1st or 2nd. Just remember every day drives have to be usable in the wet too. I wouldn't put a hard compound on mine.

20psi is still a bit high you can go to about 14-15 I run at 16psi rears only of course. my 60fts are between 2.25 and 2,6 usually about 2.4 using either Falkons 255 40 17 or Pirelli P Zero 245 40 17

I dont really see the point Cam is making re dial in times. I ran 15.069, 15.2??,and 15.3?? in my 3 tr1als. for the comp the track temp was down 8 degrees but air temp was only down 2 degrees humidity was up from 78 to 92 and there was a cool breeze. I dialled in 14.95 which allowed me to run as hard as I could. I figured that if I broke out I'd be happy with the time anyway. ...... I thought the far end of the track was very slippery I nearly lost it changing up to 4th and again transitioning to brakeing. several guys went into the paddock.

Each to his own

| Hype ^ | yes that's the idea would make for a double shoetening of the arc your hand moves through. Was also thinking of fitting a gate in the top of the console instead of the leather boot like in some Ferraries.

Well! Well! Well! .......going for it eh Cam,....don't line up beside me will you I had some plans but, alas , I'm in the same state as Dragcombat. Haven't even been able to get it on the dyno with toluened fuel. I was mainly hoping to get some practice in so I could work out an achievable dial in time but didn't manage that either............. anyway I'll see you there.. Break a Leg

I got my C's from takakaira.com in Japan delivered to my door took 2 weeks cost $A634 via credit card. The proper short shift changes the length of the stroke at the bottom of the gearleverwhich actually makes the change faster and also has the effect of shortening the length of the arc your hand moves through when you change gear. Just shortening the top of the lever shortens the arc but doesen't change anything at the bottom. Currently I'm thinkinf of shortening the top of my C's .............Has anyone else tried this. It should give a really short shift but might make it a bit too stiff.

I've got C's, It is very good, solid works well and is very easy to fit. As far as I know Nismo make two one of them shortens by only 10% the other I Don't know, quality should not be a problem though

Hmmm! If you just open up the front of the box you'll be getting air in from around the headlights.... quite a lot , but won't it be bypassing your filter??

Unless you are doing extensive performance mods , the standard system actually flows enough air

JiMbO Put the front of the car up on axle stands enough so you can easily get you head under the front bar. Remove wheel on the cold box side ... it is easier if you remove both. undo attachment points for the black plastic inner mudguard just the front for the driver side. take it out on the cold box side. It is attached at 2 points to the bottom side of the front bar + a couple of plastic clip thingies . Look up underneith the front bar at each side it has 2 screws per side holding it to the guard 10mm hexhead i think remove these. Remove the grill 5 plastic squeeze clips use narrow nose pliers to squeeze them. There are 3 plastic clip things holding the top of the front bar, remove them undo the fog light wiring plugs pull the bar straight out to the front. The wiring plugs are locked together. Pull the bar out until you can see them clearly and use the pliers to squeeze. Guard : Take off the little trim piece at the bottom rear of the wheel arch 2 screws at the front 2 at the side near the jacking point . you may have to do a little straightening of the lip to get them out. Remove the remaining section of the black plastic mud guard 3 or 4 screws in the lip of the wheel arch, several plastic clip things along the other edge. Look inside the guard back towards the door, unplug the indicator repeater ...it's just a half turn and pull. Low down at the door end is a 10mm hexhead screw remove it , open the door about half way and going through the gap between it and the guard at the top is another one remove it. Remove all the screws along the top edge of the guard at the side of the engine bay. At the outer end of the Headlight and just underneith it are 2 more hex heads remove them and you'r done wiggle the guard out. I used an 80mm hole cutter and half round file, 90mm stormwater elbows and pipe and the red bit at the front is the plastic bowl that Woollies Christmass puddings come in. As a guide the hole needs to be somewhat oval as the elbow needs to come straight out the bottom so it doesn't come too close to the wheel. It protrudes a little through the plastic mudguard so you have to cut a hole in it trial and error The elbow should be cut in as close to the ic pipe hole as you can and as far to the outer side as you can. you ar cutting through a curved surface. That's why it needs to be ovalled at the rear. All the plastic clip things fit 8mm holes and i replaced them with new from the Rubber Shop $9 per dozen. The old ones tend to be brittle and break. If you can't find these I can get you some. For the cold box itself I made it from Grey plain outdoor carpet From Hardware house $20 per meter 2 meters wide. It is pliable and flexible but stiff enough to hold it's shape when in place. I made the side wall first and gave it a good coat of polyester resin in place to make it rigid. You can then take it out and apply a couple of layers of fibreglass. It is very rough and hairy after the resin so needs a good but gentle sand befor applying the fibreglass. Then the same deal for the top. One screw at the front and the rear is enough to hold it The outer edge tucks under the little lip of the guard. Along the join you will need to make an angle on one of the pieces so you can screw them together or like me just tape them. Incidently the carpet is a good insulator but a layer of builders silver foil on the inside wouldn't hurt

JimX Next time you'r looking at it could you measure and post the diam and length of your Apexi Pod filter. There is room to bring in a 90mm intake to the bottom of the cold box from low in the front bar. I'm half way through my installation. It was complicated by the position of the ic pipeing and the fact that I have a stock GTR intake into the top of it. I decided to make my own in fibreglass sandwich. The core is outdoor carpet and will have 2 layers 400G fibreglass each side and a final layer of reflective foil. If anyone's interested theres a link to some pics (I hope) http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Cold...20and%20intake/

You would have to be a real idiot to pay out $2000 for a new IC. You could get a decent fmic for that and the origional ic will prevent you from upping the performance. Replacing the ic is the next thing you do after replacing the exhaust, and yes a reasonable used price would be $100 and absolutely no reason why you shouldn't use one. Same would apply to most of the other parts too providing you buy good used parts as opposed to worn out used parts. That you are on this forum suggests you will have no problems finding sources for used Skyline parts. Good luck

we'll be there some time Sunday, probably morning

Fatz....had no problems fitting my C's, the kit had everything needed took me around 45 minutes. All done from the top Klayman.... If you'r just shortening the top of the stick it is as I posted.....If you'r doing the bottom of it too, it is as Fatz posted you will need a spacer plate the right thickness and maybe longer bolts and maybe modify things to fit. That 's why the shop ones come in a kit.

I'm interested and I'm in Bris Pm me for a look at it

there is alarge circlip which you need to be careful with other than that it is simple and you can see what needs to be done as you go. Please post or pm me the end result of your shortening. I've got a C's short shifter but I was thinking about shortening the lever a little.