51jay

At the time mick51 and myself were dragracing my car on a regular basis, he was consistantly 0.7sec quicker than me. We put this down to our different approach to gear changing. He used to bang it through as fast as he could. It being my car I was a little slower and gentler. The plus side of a gentler approach is after 4 years of general use ,track and dragstrip, my gearbox is still in great shape....had a C's short shifter in for last 2 years too.

Get a grip on yourself son!....get a grip. Bmw stud pattern id not compatable with R33

It's not the car.......It's that Bl**dy great Turbo!! :wassup:

Didnt have any problems with mine

CerealKiller might need to look at replacing the hingepins....see below Roy if I were you I'd get some advice from a good panel beater

hahaha!...... using the right tool for the job results in less cuts and scrapes. re the discs. You could get the discs machined on the car in your driveway then change the padsl

pair of long nosed curved pliers makes it easier to get rubber tubing off

I don't know anymore..........don't even recognise me!! Also just got back from 3 days in Leeds and my brain is sort of numb

aaaaaaaaaaagggghhhhh!!!!!

Sure is my eyeballs are iceing up.....wish I was there :wassup:

does being in the northern hemispere shange you'r perspective???

what's goin on here ???

Well same situation applies. To repair the thread you will have to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold but you can do it with the engine still in the car, installing a new thread insert is the best way. You could give UAS a call

loved the wouldbe buyer who asked how much rego it had on it

Don't go to bunnings, If this is the oil line into the turbo it's prob a BSP thread. Is the bolt hollow with a hole in the side near the head?. If the thread in the body of the turbo has gone you can drill it out and rethread it to the next size up and replace the bolt or you can get a thread insert same size as the bolt and fit that. This would need the insert kit which comprises special size tap, correct size drillbit and thread inserts themselves. Talk to someone who knows what he is doing as this is a tricky one

Boost gauge is only a vac line into the cabin...no problem and accurate. Oil pressure can be elect or direct via oil line to the gauge. Direct responds quicker to changes in pressure, electric negates any chance of hot oil spraying around the cabin. Take your pick.

I'll be in for one in black assuming you can get the money I have allready paid for the origional ones

I just love an optimist

Happy to be a dragracing chump......glad I'm not an opinionated nitwit

I've bought from them, but only small items eg Apexi RSM. There service is excellent and you can find out aprox shipping charges on site before you commit. They notify you of inclusive cost before sending

I will prob be in UK but have asked mick51 to enter the white car to keep up our Drag Combat record (mick drove the first, we entered the 2nd but had to retire) Hopefully using BFG drag radials...hint hint Mick!!

Custom Carbon in Bris have them www.customcarbon.com.au for coupe or sedan

In Bris red light and fixed speed cameras don't have any warning signs. I've got the Uniden GPS 301....the poor man's Road Angel does pretty much the same thing $288 at Tandy's

That sounds too much, pm jaqule and ask him where he got his and how much, he did a rear wheel bearing on his R33 not long ago. It is a very easy do it yourself job

I've got Pirellis and Dunlops in 18