savage1987

Car is sold and gone.

I did read it. "... generally means ... " is not a 100% answer but it seems to line up. Anyway I found the plug for it this morning, jammed between radiator and A/C condenser and full of black scunge.. gave it a quick clean up with some elec contact cleaner and plugged it up. Maybe that fan will work now

Useless post of the century right there. Anyone have any actual information on this?

Anyone know what this sensor actually does? I mean 100% fact, not just an idea pulled out of thin air like the rest of the internet seems to offer..

Yeah thanks champ, I see what you did there with the hint that I should have used the search function that never ever works properly on any forum... That thread still doesn't tell me what that sensor actually does, all I have to go on at the moment is guesswork and wishy thinking. Sam

That's the thing.. I have had a quick look around and can't see a plug for it anywhere. The temp gauge in the dashboard works fine, but I think that's fed by the manifold coolant temp sensor...(?) Unless this one feeds the ECU .. that'd explain why the thing seems to enjoy 14L/100km

Our GTST has a sensor in the bottom of the radiator that has a plug on it that looks like this I can only find ref. to this sensor with respect to the GTR models, should it be plugged into anything on a GTST? Thanks, Sam

price drop on window glass - $10 otherwise it goes in the bin this week.

well with the factory bypass valve or whatever they call the plumb back BOV the last tank of fuel was 13.9L/100km, a bit better than 16. Hopefully a tune (eventually, not just yet unless there is cheap software and lots of support for home tuning a near-stocker) will see that drop a little more near the 10-11 mark.

Should have mentioned that the AFM is a brand new genuine unit, I replaced it thinking that may have been part of the problem. I also have done the fuel filter, didn't cut the old one open though. The inside of the tank looked fine when I did the pump. Injectors are a maybe - are there rebuild kits available anywhere for these? I don't mind doing the work to save some cash.

The motor is fairly close to stock. Just has an exhaust, pod filter, crappy boost controller and the atmo BOV I removed yesterday.Thanks for the photo, it confirms at least that my solenoid has been removed. Would that unplugged solenoid be causing problems with the ECU? The instructions I found for the boost controller state: 1) INTERNAL WASTEGATE SETUP • Allow the engine to cool down before installing your boost controller • Locate the pressure source port and the wastegate actuator port on the turbocharger assembly (refer drawing 1) • Remove the factory boost control solenoid if fitted from the boost pressure supply port while leaving the solenoid connected to the ECU • Install the DSBC Tee piece in the wastegate pressure line with the wastegate arrow pointing towards the wastegate actuator • If your wastegate actuator has additional ports, these will need to be blocked • Secure all silicone hose ends with hose clamps • Mount your boost controller bracket onto the vehicle, and then attach the boost controller onto the bracket with the supplied screws • Make sure the boost dials are turned completely anti-clockwise before making adjustments. Misbehaving = feels like it loses a cylinder intermittently(?) under boost. Sounds like an old carby breaking down spark (same fluttering noise) and the power does not come on smoothly, it hesitates and carries on. Only have the standard boost gauge and I don't really know where stock boost should sit on it to be honest, I have wound the turbosmart controller down so full boost is just under 350mmHg on that gauge, I figured that should be lower than stock if anything, and eliminate ECU R&R spasms from the picture..? This engine does not get driven around on boost a lot, so 16 is, to me, absurd. It did 9L/100km on a 200km highway trip with a mountain drive in the middle, so that side of things is OK. Makes no sense to me, I think I need to find a tuner up here who knows Skylines inside out or find/buy some tuning software and have a crack on my own - I'm sure there's enough online support to get me through something like that. Not that I know of; and I have replaced the O2 sensor on the dump pipe, yes.

I have a similar problem in a 33 s1 ... fuel pump done but no fix http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/394347-rb25det-boost-control/

Hi guys, I have an R33 s1 engine that is misbehaving. I have an engine manual here but it doesn't really help me because the diagrams are super confusing and overcomplicated. Looking for pics of the factory boost control solenoid (as far as I can tell mine is missing - I understand it's meant to be near the boost controller but I just have an empty plug there.. it's all been gutted as far as I can see to fit this crappy little turbosmart 2 stage manual boost controller and I've no idea how the vacuum control piping was set up from factory. I'm trying to go back to stock setup to start a proper diagnosis of why it's not producing the power it should. I replaced the atmo BOV today with a stock plumb back and that seemed to help a bit. Trying to eliminate boost controller from the equation now. I have done plugs - NGKs with a 0.6 gap as recommended to me by antilag.com - and the coilpacks are new looking splitfires. I replaced and rewired the fuel pump too, it's a Walbro 255Lph now. A dodgy injector or a playing up boost controller are next on my list of suspicions. Maybe even a vac leak but I can't find one (fixed a few already though). The ECU is still stock as far as I can tell, and it uses over 16L/100km suburban driving in Townsville - even my 5.0L (even my 5.7L!) doesn't use that much. Car was treated shit before we bought it and sat unused for a long time as far as I can tell, so we are sort of trying to clear things up and get it back to 100% again. Any ideas/help appreciated Sam

still for sale. please get this out of my shed consider offers

still got this

Bump, still got all this Also after an electronic boost controller if someone has one for the right price.

as luck would have it, I already had some uploaded to photobucket it's pretty comfy, if I had a bigger shed I'd keep it - I have been sitting on it while wiring up the LS1 VN, much better than kneeling on concrete

Driver's seat minor wear as you'd expect really for age $50 ono Driver's window glass, 2door $50 ono Air flow meter series1 green 5pin, used, working fine $100 ono Air flow meter series2 pink 3pin BRAND NEW GENUINE bought the wrong one by mistake $250 ono also VN V6 slotted/drilled front brake rotors used, excellent condition $100 pair ono Holden V8 engine covers 5 litre, VR style emblem, 3 piece alloy covers, need painting. $200 ono

Price drop $250 I'm sick of looking at it in the shed

well it seems the reason the reg is f**ked is because it was the wrong one. Amazing. Thanks very much Bosch getting it back (repaired/replaced) tonight, will throw it in and hope the rest of the system is all ok.. otherwise off to the auto elec tomorrow for further warranty fixes.

Thanks, I'll check it out. Your callout fee to Townsville might be huge though.

22680-31U00 (pink, 3pin) Brand new, I bought the wrong sensor for my spec 1. Retail on these is unbelievably huge. $300 0428873482 [email protected] <--- best bet Sam

Aaaaaaaaaand here's the awesome development that has me really hating the car Forgot to disconnect battery last night, battery light was still on this morning Jump started the car.. Didn't sound like it was too happy idling, I hopped in the driver's seat: Speedo going all over the place, was at 100kph idling, I gave the throttle a tap and it jumped off the top of the scale Stereo flickering on and off as though there's a short somewhere that's all i noticed before I turned it off to hopefully avoid doing too much damage to stuff. I have no idea how to even approach this, which is the really awesome thing. In other news, when I unplug the 2pin on the back of the alternator (with the car off) the battery light goes away. Internal fault for sure??? What would have happened if SOMEHOW the little conversion plug they give you was wired backwards? At the moment it goes [sKYLINE HARNESS-------BOSCH ALT] light green-----------------------black white----------------------------red which I don't know but seems weird to me

wow definitely in the wrong section, my bad. just noticed.

I replaced the alternator on our R33 today because the battery light was coming on at idle. I installed a Bosch item that was recommended as a replacement. It all fit OK, and it's a 14V 85A unit, compared with the (12V?)80A old one. The warning light at idle was gone Mrs drove it to work, it still starts and drives OK, but now whenever the car is OFF the batt warning light comes on, and remains on, Any ideas?? Thanks, Sam