savage1987

its at the end of the coil pack harness and sits on top of the coil cover at the back best point of contact [email protected], or my mobile 0428 873 482 Thanks Sam

Thanks man, yes you would have seen my other build around probably - a VN Lexcen with an LS1 in it. This car is a sidetrack from my two V8s. I figure it's good to get a bit of variety

haha cheers, it's still there - I checked that the other day while I was greasing the thrust bearing I'm RAE. copy paste time: Car is officially roadworthy and registered couple of things to sort out drivers' door doesn't shut as nicely as it should, and the key doesn't work in the lock of the same door properly. couple of interior plastic trims need replacing with non-broken ones wheels need a bit of a balance still doesn't make power properly all the time, needs some tuning love I think. Read somewhere R33s don't like Nistune so that's a shame; PowerFC maybe, given that a bigger turbo will be on the cards for later on?? don't know enough about this side of things. so we swapped the HKS pod for a generic pod PLUS a FMIC with all piping! WTF!! Pretty keen to get stuck into building this thing properly, but first i think it really needs a tune or SOMETHING since it uses about 540000L / 100km. Sometime around Christmas we will strip the entire car and prep it for painting, inside and out. Panel shop can take care of the actual colour laying for us I'm having trouble chasing down the source of a misfire / spark breakdown.. Idles fine Coasting down in gear misfires Under part or full throttle misfires at random so hard the R&R must kick in or something because it's like the power just drops away for a moment now and then I've changed the O2 sensor just behind the turbo, there looks to be another one in the rear of the catalytic convertor but I don't know what the deal is with that..? Is this a common issue? There's also an earth strap just hanging free from the floorpan right next to the catalytic convertor... where is this supposed to go? The earth strap in the engine bay from the motor to the strut tower is a piece of shit, I need to replace this because it's rubbish and I'm not happy with it at all. Other than this issue the car's going alright a Z32 ecu (and AFM while I'm at it) plus nistune is our best option? I've been trying to read up on this stuff but there are so many opinions you never know who is just making shit up Also how much benefit is there in upgrading to an aftermarket dump from the stock turbo? I noticed last night that the dump is the stock cast piping. Is it even worth doing this at all since we'll probably end up looking for a high-mount setup further down the track? I replaced the shitty factory earth strap from the exhaust manifold to the strut tower with a nice 2GA cable. I also found that the FPR's vacuum/boost line from the inlet manifold had blown itself off so I cranked a couple of cable ties onto it pretty damn tight as a temporary solution. It seems to have helped a little, it builds power a lot stronger now but still doesn't feel quite right, and the stalling issue has come back stronger than it was before (guessing because the mixture is leaning out properly with the vacuum input adjusting the pressure properly but whatever it is I need to fix it. I read somewhere that the pumps are designed to adjust their voltage at low demand (idle conditions) by means of a switching earth and that this can be circumvented by giving the pump a fixed earth right near the tank. I'll investigate this. Otherwise I'm starting to suspect the pump may need replacing because I'm sure this is a fuelling issue and I don't think it's high enough to be hitting the Nissan ECU's 7.5PSI fuel cut.. Getting somewhere, anyway. It's nice to get a step in the right direction every so often. the plan is to strip it back over Christmas and have it sprayed white. Got the Walbro in today. I set up a new relay right next to the battery with a feed directly from the positive terminal, using the previously existing fuel pump power feed as the signal for the relay. This means the new pump won't be subject to Nissan's fuel pump voltage drop at idle, which can only be a good thing, while retaining the ECU control to switch the pump off in case of an accident. I also gave the pump wiring a nice direct earth so it doesn't have to earth back through the loom. I'll get some pictures up eventually. While I was in the tank I removed and cleaned the fuel level sender assembly because I figured I'd be stupid not to do it while I was in there anyway. It's also worth noting that I used the pre-existing Nissan pump filter rather than the new one Walbro supplied because it (the Nissan item) afforded the pickup a little over an inch more reach downward and I didn't want to reduce my useable fuel volume.

Plenty of work ahead but perhaps not as much as it looks from the photos Cheap car!! and actually passed RWC pretty well straight away so that's a good start. I'll let the pictures do the talking for now, plenty of info and work coming up in the following months. Is anyone missing their mailbox? I think its under the car!!!! Do you think that the pink number plates bring out my eyes? Replaced both tie rod ends straight off the bat, as one of them looked like this... And replaced the hub on the same side for good measure, just in case anything was bent/damaged, and because the bearing didn't feel 100%... unfortunately it was an ABS hub onto a car without ABS, so it was time for another trademark Sam-spec backyard fix Who ever would have thought of using a coke bottle lid to fix a problem......just imagine what you could do with an entire Mount Franklin bottle.....

Got the Walbro in today. I set up a new relay right next to the battery with a feed directly from the positive terminal, using the previously existing fuel pump power feed as the signal for the relay. This means the new pump won't be subject to Nissan's fuel pump voltage drop at idle, which can only be a good thing, while retaining the ECU control to switch the pump off in case of an accident. I also gave the pump wiring a nice direct earth so it doesn't have to earth back through the loom. I'll get some pictures up eventually. While I was in the tank I removed and cleaned the fuel level sender assembly because I figured I'd be stupid not to do it while I was in there anyway. It's also worth noting that I used the pre-existing Nissan pump filter rather than the new one Walbro supplied because it (the Nissan item) afforded the pickup a little over an inch more reach downward and I didn't want to reduce my useable fuel volume.

I've no idea what this is still doing in this section. I should just start a new thread. The car seems to have become more sensible since I dialled the boost right down so I think Nissan's R&R (or 7.5psi fuel cut or whatever the fk happens in the factory ECU) may have been a contributing factor. I don't know where standard boost sits on the factory gauge, we bought the car like this I have a new fuel pump to throw in (Walbro GSS342) and I want to find an injector rebuild kit for it as well. I have replaced the filter and all engine bay lines for peace of mind, and I will do the rear lines when the pump goes in.

seems to have become more sensible when I dialled the boost right down so I think this may have been a contributing factor. I don't know where standard is on the factory gauge, we bought the car like this I have a new fuel pump to throw in (Walbro GSS342) and I want to find an injector rebuild kit for it as well. I have replaced the filter and all engine bay lines for peace of mind, and I will do the rear lines when the pump goes in.

adjusting boost all over the place using the dual stage turbosmart manual boost controller that was in the car when i got it.... keeping it really low to try to rule out fuel cut from what i assume is the standard ECU (haven't looked)

can someone help me understand how the fuel system works in this car? There are what appear to be two fuel pressure regulators inline upon exit from the fuel rail, and neither of them appear aftermarket. The one right on the end of the rail has a manifold pressure/vacuum feed line, then the one after that is on the strut tower... I'm confused unless that one on the strut tower is just a dampener?? I'm sure I've got a pressure issue that isn't feeding reliable pressure under boost so the power breaks down in a weird fluttering sound.... boost pressure stays up just the power isn't there.

sprayed a bunch of grease up along the lever today, hopefully that fixes the issue for me

I replaced the shitty factory earth strap from the exhaust manifold to the strut tower with a nice 2GA cable. I also found that the FPR's vacuum/boost line from the inlet manifold had blown itself off so I cranked a couple of cable ties onto it pretty damn tight as a temporary solution. It seems to have helped a little, it builds power a lot stronger now but still doesn't feel quite right, and the stalling issue has come back stronger than it was before (guessing because the mixture is leaning out properly with the vacuum input adjusting the pressure properly but whatever it is I need to fix it. I read somewhere that the pumps are designed to adjust their voltage at low demand (idle conditions) by means of a switching earth and that this can be circumvented by giving the pump a fixed earth right near the tank. I'll investigate this. Otherwise I'm starting to suspect the pump may need replacing because I'm sure this is a fuelling issue and I don't think it's high enough to be hitting the Nissan ECU's 7.5PSI fuel cut.. Getting somewhere, anyway. It's nice to get a step in the right direction every so often.

Our R33 has an annoying noise that sounds for all the world like a drive belt squeak, only it goes away when the clutch pedal has even the smallest amount of pressure applied to it. It's a series 1 GTS25T if that makes a difference. If anyone has any ideas what this could be, or how to go about fixing it, I'd love to hear it. Thanks Sam

Have already changed the plugs out for new ones, found out at the same time that the coil packs are splitfires that look pretty well brand new. Really wish mods would move this thread to the correct section of the forum.... I reported it the moment I posted the thread lol. Maybe I'll try reporting it again.

wow keen eyes. So keen you picked up the corps even though there's nothing whatsoever in the photos that would tell you that stalker? lol seriously though I'm confused now. also the 270 went wayy over my head. introductions are in order

so I'm having trouble chasing down the source of a misfire / spark breakdown.. Idles fine Coasting down in gear misfires Under part or full throttle misfires at random so hard the R&R must kick in or something because it's like the power just drops away for a moment now and then I've changed the O2 sensor just behind the turbo, there looks to be another one in the rear of the catalytic convertor but I don't know what the deal is with that..? Is this a common issue? There's also an earth strap just hanging free from the floorpan right next to the catalytic convertor... where is this supposed to go? The earth strap in the engine bay from the motor to the strut tower is a piece of shit, I need to replace this because it's rubbish and I'm not happy with it at all. Other than this issue the car's going alright

Thanks for the ideas and feedback guys, the RAM I wasn't sure of exactly what spec to get etc and I was really tired of power-researching all the other parts at 3AM so I just threw that on the order to get myself by. Anyone got any ideas on a set that would work well on this board? I'm running Windows 7 64bit so the more the better, but I don't know enough about timings and latencies and what will fit under my enormous NH-D14!

so we swapped the HKS pod for a generic pod PLUS a FMIC with all piping! WTF!! Pretty keen to get stuck into building this thing properly, but first i think it really needs a tune or SOMETHING since it uses about 540000L / 100km. Sometime around Christmas we will strip the entire car and prep it for painting, inside and out. Panel shop can take care of the actual colour laying for us

*sigh. I reported the post immediately when I realised it was in the COMPLETELY wrong section of the forum. I don't usually make mistakes like this and apparently the moderators took their time moving it, as it still hasn't been moved. Hmm.. The possibilities are endless. Anyway thanks for the altogether useful and productive advice you have all given so far

lol! It's not pink in real life.. just blame that on my shitty phone camera it's anodised red. The monitor is only half of the monitor-ness available, the other half is a 42" LCD TV. HDD: waiting on SSDs to come down in price and up in size to a point where they become cost effective.

specs CPU maker: CPU:Phenom II X4 955BE Motherboard:Crosshair IV Formula Bios:1902 GPU maker: Graphics Card:crossfired MSI HD6870 1GB Twin Frozr II Memory:G.Skill Ripjaws F3-16000CL9D-4GBRHD (2x2GB) DDR3 Hard Drive:Caviar Black 1TB + Caviar Green 2TB Optical Drive:ASUS DRW-24B3LT 24X DVDRW LightScribe Power Supply:Corsair AX1200 Display:LG, 1920x1080 Case:Lian Li Armoursuit PC-P50R Speakers:Logitech X530 Mouse:R.A.T.3 Keyboard:Saitek Eclipse II Operating System:Windows 7 64bit Cooling CPU:Noctua NH-D14 Graphics Card (GPU):Twin Frozr II Case:plenty of case fans standard Speeds CPU Stock:3.2GHz OC'd to 4.0GHz Graphics Card - Core Stock:920 Graphics Card - Memory Stock:1050 Benchmarks 3DMark06:21805 let me know what you think, excuse the phone quality photos Sam

Car is officially roadworthy and registered couple of things to sort out drivers' door doesn't shut as nicely as it should, and the key doesn't work in the lock of the same door properly. couple of interior plastic trims need replacing with non-broken ones wheels need a bit of a balance still doesn't make power properly all the time, needs some tuning love I think. Read somewhere R33s don't like Nistune so that's a shame; PowerFC maybe, given that a bigger turbo will be on the cards for later on?? don't know enough about this side of things.

Plenty of work ahead but perhaps not as much as it looks from the photos Cheap car!! and actually passed RWC pretty well straight away so that's a good start. I'll let the pictures do the talking for now, plenty of info and work coming up in the following months. Is anyone missing their mailbox? I think its under the car!!!! Do you think that the pink number plates bring out my eyes? Replaced both tie rod ends straight off the bat, as one of them looked like this... And replaced the hub on the same side for good measure, just in case anything was bent/damaged, and because the bearing didn't feel 100%... unfortunately it was an ABS hub onto a car without ABS, so it was time for another trademark Sam-spec backyard fix Who ever would have thought of using a coke bottle lid to fix a problem......just imagine what you could do with an entire Mount Franklin bottle.....

got RWC today. turbo timer is on the to-do list, along with figuring out why it doesn't like WOT.. any recommendations on brand for the timer? Coilpacks are Splitfire, look brand new, and I replaced the plugs with NGK BCPR6ES as recommended by an antilag member. Boost gauge definitely on the hit list, need ideas on where to mount a few gauges as well as types that don't look too homo....

it's a manual RB25DET equipped GTS-T, seems to have the 'super HICAS' on it, whatever that is ....and it has one of these little f**kers on it, which I've no idea what to do with.. how do I set it up properly, the boost on both settings seemed to be wound ALL the way down so it made all the funny turbo noises with no power produced I don't know shit about turbos OR skylines really since I've never owned either. Educate me!! We smashed some new oil into it today, replaced driver's seat that had a rip in it, and gave it a quick backyard spec alignment (was way off, probably due to something i haven't worked out yet being bent..) and it seems to be going alright. Tried winding up the boost on the high setting a little; seemed to work somewhat but I'm worried about leaning it out because I know nothing about these things is the factory boost gauge usually fairly reliable/accurate? Anything I should be looking at changing immediately on purchase? Was thinking plugs and leads but I fail there because it doesn't have leads lol.. Anyway interested to hear ideas on how I should approach this! I need to learn a lot about this car. Thanks Sam