Marko R1

I also heard it is hard to put the box in with a bearing spigot off the ground. Did u install your box?

Why is it better though? What did u change to make it better, spigot?

Terry also suggested I check for dowels. U can use 8mm drill if u cut it in the right length as dowels.

OK. Did that take out most of the vibration? What explanation did Terry give you for your car?

Got it. Man I feel like a rookie lol. So what is the correct way to test flow? With the pump mounted in car, straight off the fuel rail inlet?

Did u end up changing any parts during the rebuild or balance any of shafts? This intrigues me and I'll explain why. My mechanic changed my clutch and as soon as this was done, 3rd gear vibration became apparent under load and boost. With the old clutch, it was perfect. I called Terry @ Award Diff and explained the symptoms my car was having and he bluntly said "its your spigot bush" which makes perfect sense to me as it was obviously damaged during the r&r (before I changed my clutch, there was no vibration). He explained it is something to do with 3rd gear running on the same shaft / input shaft. I can't remember the exact explanation BUT he was adamant and this is why the issue is there only in 3rd gear...under load 3rd gear vibrates due to loose tolerance between input shaft and spigot. Have u replaced your spigot?

make sure u make it known to him if he ever sells the car that u want it...I did the same with my uncle and now I have his car

Update time. I decided to flow test my OEM pump direct from the battery and was very surprised by the results. Over a period of 30seconds, it flowed 2.7ltrs which equates to 324LPH. The pump even ran low and started blowing bubbles as I couldn't fill up the 2 ltr bottle it was sitting in quick enough. Am I getting a higher voltage / power supply from the battery, rather than the fuel pump harness located in the boot? How can the pump flow at such a rate?

they run a dry sump right? is the bottom end forged from factory? i'd be surprised if they were...

hi paul, i just came across this thread - 4yr thread bump how is your box holding up & that 3rd gear vibration? is anyone else still having 3rd gear vibration symptoms & any subsequent updates since?

ive always had a soft spot for Porsches & if I bought a car of this calibre - I'd choose Porsche over its rivals. Apparently a real drivers car, simple but built to be fast. Sorry guys a bit off topic

It is really due to low kms as I've had a reasonable condition JDM and a very tidy JDM. Combination of a well maintained car which is tight in every way (i.e. driveline, bushes, gearbox etc). It is also psychological I believe...for example, an A9X will always feel more nostalgic than a replica

If u can read german: http://hpower.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p197_Pierburg-Typ-E3L-360L-h.html

Pierburg E3L series (700228510)

I want to do back2back flow testing with the OEM pump and pierburg. I reconnected the OEM pump but the trigger switches it off after 5 sec.. can I connect the pump to the battery direct as I want to measure flow into a bucket over a period of 1 minute so that I can calculate LPH.

i'd be interested to hear how u compare the porsche to your gtr in terms of handling & power delivery?

what is a man with 1 ball hanging hehe. I personally prefer twins

Fair enough brad. I still prefer Paul's car

I remember this car was for sale about 4yrs ago from Lithgow, if I'm not mistaken the engine work was done by crd

Lol mukmed. I swear bro my Rex is hectic! One of my pet hates is when a car is lowered too much

thanks bob for your input - grimshaw LOOOOOL that is a great analogy. i'd personally be happy with kerr or hawkins, just putting it out there i fear if i restore it back to factory that i will become bored of the power delivery (im a HP junkie)...anyway, i'll make my decision soon, 1 way or another. i originally bought my gtr back in 2004 for 40k from a close friend in which i then added a few mods & sold it in 2006 for the same price...i then bought it back from the same guy in 2011 for practically the same price. i understand your view on keeping it factory, however, i personally don't think the mods on my car affected its value when it changed hands BUT as these cars get older & appreciate, enthusiasts will want to see all the OEM parts. those tail lights are an absolute fluke - did u buy them just in case something happens to your car, for safety factor? with regards to that poster - how much would you charge for a full scale copy & print on photocopy paper? i seriously want it & it may become a bit of a 'cash cow' for you

that is a monster! looks great as well i hear a lot of good things about JEM tuning & that r33 looks like a good example

hi guys, i need some opinions as i am interested in gaining feedback on this... i recently removed the bigger HKS turbos i had fitted to the car & have been contemplating on what should be my next steps. 1 of my good mates thinks i should restore it back to factory, cover it & leave it in the garage - this i cannot do as i dont see the point in owning the car & preserving it for the next potential owner - i want to enjoy the car & fact is that i hardly drive it anyway (its lucky to see the sun once a month, yes sad i know). i still have the factory turbos & factory parts for the car so now i am thinking if i should bring it back to OEM or leave it as is with larger turbos & enjoy it the way i like - with more power. i guess i have the option of restoring it when i want but maybe there is no point unless i was selling the car to an enthusiast who expects this. i think i just answered my own question!?

Its amazing what flow these OEM pumps can support. I might test mine in a bucket and see how many litres it flows over 1 minute...what is the best way to test this though, direct to the battery? how about some seasoned bong hose? Loool

I think I've hit a wall as I cannot source submersible fuel hose with an ID to accommodate the fuel pump inlet which is 15mm. I tried pirtek, gates, speed flow, earls and purple pig. Gates stock submersible hose in 2 sizes and these only run up to 9.5mm. Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to mate my fuel sock to the fuel pump? Fuel pump is a push hose fitting and the fuel sock has a female push fitting with an ID of 24mm. The generic fuel hose does infact work in terms of size for ID and OD, however, the outer skin will disintegrate as it sits in the fuel tank. If I have no other option, I may run speedflow -10 push hose as EFI Performance suggested this and apparently does not break down in fuel (even though speedflow stated to me that it is not rated for fuel submersion.