RamR33

yea it is soft as u can pull the rod with your hands back not like the stock turbo where almost impossible to pull back the rod with your hand but it might hit 1 psi when that one time i drove it just real quick as test but the pre load has made it a lil hard yea the rear wheel is still there i hope lol not like ive been thrashing it for it to full off and running 20psi. i guess its mechanic time let them have fun with it lol. im almost sure it has something to do with the actuator as ive just put it on and turbo spins great not seized and is getting oil and even if there was a dump pipe leak or loose bolts dont really think it stop it from creating boost.

i kind of put on the actuator rod tight on to the wasgate pin thingy as in adjusted the rod so it can hook on but made it tight so i have to pull the rod a couple of mm to hook on as thought it would close the waste gat flap as i as told. is that wat you mean by preload or is it something else?

i got it from ws racing on ebay,the brand is ws racing and it is brand new, heres a link

the turbo is brand new WS-0448 Turbo straight bolt on one. i got new gaskets for the exhaust manifold and dump pipe.

the only thing i have done diff from the stock turbo and intake and pressure side is for the intake to turbo put a 3 inch to 3inch rubber silicone hose which on the stock one i had 3inch to the turbo intake 2.5inch and from the other part that goes to intercooler is a 90 degree bend which ofcourse the factory one wont work and i put new gaskets,bought a gasket kit from autobarn. the turbo does spin freely and nice with my fingers but cant reall see if its spinning on idle without the front intake coming off and then wont idle ofcourse without the intake/afm. anyway around seeing if the turbo spins on idle withouth the intake with afm that goes to turbo?

i had a look at the old oil filter and that black seal was still on there plus ive gotten underneath the car and had a look to see where it is coming from and its coming from the around the sandwich seal were it goes all round. Ive had a look carefully from the top and have seen nothing of any oil coming from the oil filter seal around there. would alot of oil come out if it was the sandwich seal cause there was a bit of oil coming out atleast a cup full if left on idling for 10min or so.

i blew air into the actuator line and it moved back and forth so that seem to be working. Dont really no what else it could be as all ive done is replaced the turbo with a bigger one, i even checked the oil liine if it was getting oil and thats all fine and good. even reving it on idle it makes a lil sound from the pod but nothing like the stock turbo as u can feel just from idle and reving it,it doesnt seem or feel right,it just sounds like blocked or something. hopefully someone can help cause im out of ideas.

Kris do you mean just blow air into the acuator vacume hose line which goes to the turbo with car idling?

Just had a look and at the dump pipe and not sure wat it is. all i no and can see is the back dump pipe bolts on to the turbo and there a lil groove were the dump pipe bolt goes but cant see it being split. so dont think its a split dump pipe. looks like the ones they sell on justjap but not stainless steel

its a split dump pipe,but its a straight bolt on turbo to suit RB25det. what can be done for this to be sorted out? do i need a new dump pipe or can i buy one like from just jap or something like that?

hi, ive just replaced my old turbo with my new one and for some reason it wont boost at all as ive only changed the turbo and everything was put back to the way it was as in intake pipe and plumped bov and as soon as i try to hit boost it wont go past 0. im thinking it might be actuator stuck or something but not sure. I have taken the intake pipe to see if turbo is seized but spins nice and freely also checked all exhaust bolts all fine. any ideas on wat it could be? or to no if its the actuator is working or not? any help would be great.

Hey guys have a bit of a problem with my R33 skyline. seems to be leaking a bit of oil from the seal at the back of the oil filter sandwich which i was told by the previous owner it had a leak and which he had put a bit of gasket glue from dripping down but as soon as i done the oil filter change it got worse and dnt no why. have no time to take it mechanics and really dont wanna risk driving it as oil is coming out. any ideas of a quick fix as in gasket glue or anything to have it sealed thats good or how i can get a new seal from where and that ? any help would be great.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone would know where to buy some mesh for bumpers similar to the series 2 grill chrome mesh of that type and not the saas one at supercheap or autobarn.

its because i cant go anymore on the screw on the aac and when i connect the tps back it goes down to 700/800rpm but then stalls and kinda goes up and down between700/900 rpm. i do have a bov but plum back one not atmo but is aftermarket. only last thing to check is the o2 sensor as u suggested as im out of ideas.

hi, having a bit of a problem with my Tps idle. ive set my idle to 1100 with the tps disconected and as soon as i connect it,it goes down to 750/800rpm and most of the time stalls when driving and dont no why. aac has been cleaned and new sparkplugs and coils and not sure if its the voltage on tps which havnt tryed yet. also have a greddy e manage but not sure if the idle can be adjusted from there. ive provided a pic if anyone can help me out.

MY ACC was very dirty bad so cleaned it and all good,would that have affected my perfomance on the car cause i havent yet gone for a drive but just let it idle ?

yeah didnt adjust the throttle one i just adjusted the one on the aac thats it but didnt really need to adjust as when it warmed up it went and stayed on 900rpm...you mean i should adjust it with the plug on the aac off? Do i do it when its warm or cold? cause when i cleaned the aac it was sitting at 2000rpm then it dropped down. How do i go about when its cold not to be at 2000rpm and to be a lil bit lower then that?

thank you for that, gonna try it tommorow hope it works

Its hurting my head not knowing whats wrong with it. ive fixed all the vac leaks changed the pugs and the coilpacks are fine, so that leaves me with afm and iac valve. Any ideas how i go about cleaning the afm its a z32? and where the iac valve is on this setup or are they located all the same?

hi,i have a nissan skyline r33 1993 model and it idles at 2000rpm wen i first start it in the morning and then after about 15min it would drop down to about 1400/1500 rpm it does have a different bigger penum and throttle body on it as thats how i bought the car. When it warms up and i go around for a drive it slightly drops to 1300/1400 rpm and then i go home and adjuust the idle screw it does nothing till i rev it and the it drops to 900/1000 rpm. I would then go for a drive again and it would jump up again after 5min and if it stays at that idle under 1000rpm it would stall or feel like a cut out till it hits over 1200rpm again. I have taken it to a mechanic but the best they could do is have it idle at 1300rpm and they thought out all my vacume leaks and fuel and tuned and it still does it. Any help on this would be great.