koe

old tech. Don't get me wrong.I ran T88s,T51r kai etc.All Ment for strokers like yours or nos.Now I have a T78 but this is due to my power to weight ratios. Problem is your revs. Can't rev up stick to a New tech Borg Warner 9180 check it out.Will spool super fast in your set up

check timing check spark plugs gap Knock sensors check water sensor(if temps get high it will shot more fuel to prevent detonation) check o2 sensor(not being able to read afrs will go into full rich) These are the common facts that occure or lead to when rich problems.

just make sure it doesn't have a gloss finish to it. Mate colors don't reflect or impare your vision. I did one for a client and had to sand off the gloss finish. Otherwise it was a nightmare when direct sun light.

I have towed mines with a ford f150 v6. But any v8 will have no problem. Just install a transmission oil cooler

Option one:search for your alarms wiring diagram(helps if you can find the part number or serial number) and you search it on the net. Option two:Take it to a alarm installer and have them remove it. Option three: rip it out and using a fsm with the ignition wiring diagram double check all wiring in your steering wheel dash

jump the main window harness.which you umplug and using 2 jumper wires you power up straight from the battery. You will require a fsm(factory service manual) of your car

evos and subs are built for rally. I know there was a lot of fans back in the days when some time attack cars came out. Never have made any records in no where.Just rally. So if you want to rally then go for those evos and subs out there. If not? Go for a rwd. way more fun to drive. awd is boring.

most people do this. It's usually done for more steering angle. I did it to shave weight off.

usually all that is deleted. Sorry didn't understand the question i guess. But I wouldn't know about that.We delete all that all the time

go online and buy a datsun L26 or L28 Oil filter stud.Basically you want to find one for the 240z or early 280z. This will allow you to delete the oem oil cooler. This is the Oil filter stud before after You can install a greddy oil filter relocation kit or any sandwich plate to run your oil cooler. It's best you shop for a aftermarket oil cooler There are some cheap ones out there that work fine for the RB20/RB25. This does requires to move and plug some of the water hoses.Nothing hard. Super easy to do.

I'm a old man I don't care about copies or china. Specially people making customers do QC for them. But that SR one sure is by far the worst manifold I have seen.

The art of torque and successfully transferring torque to the ground. We're go big or go home is law We're alcohol and nos is the two hands of god Displacement and flow is your only bible Antilag and gear ratios is you mom and dad That was my mentality. I could never get my leg to stop shaking like a wet dog tho........ I guess all my adrenaline goes to my right leg , when I was drag racing. Can't say I hated it. The only way it stopped was flooring down the gas pedal like if I wanted to pierce the front fire wall lol It hade a mind of its own I guess...

Fluidyne radiator, ps cooler, oil cooler They do great stuff Car runs at 160 to 168 degrees all the time.aero work diff cooler turbo intake and suspension. Lots and lots of things I most change Easy way is to replace those old rear cross member bushing in favor of solid aluminum bushings. Both cross member and diff. A 1.5 LSD and a engine torque damper. Sprung type clutches if you care about your stock tranny. There is lots of things you can do to improve your 60 footer Such as one piece drive shaft etc... Mazworx has spend yrs on Silvia's so he was my guide. I had also a spare set of rear wheels. All I had to do is swap rims.

Lol My bad Sure didn't sound right tho... That was with falken tires. I will see if I can find my old slips. Here is my car before the NASA upgrades

I don't know how your tracks work in au? But I have to let off at 1/8th in order to keep running. So I determine my runs by the 60 footer. Which I have nailed a 1.8 sec Pwr in the 0.26 which my friend in he's gsx 600 has that Which is basically the same as the Citroen xsara wrc Rally race car only with better launch capabilities. it sure rocks my internal organs lol Not a fan anymore of drag racing Now I'm NASA and looking forward for some touge runs. Not mentioning drag racing is kind of dead here. Imports that is????

I don't street race period. I use nitro vs air. Which when I set pressure it usually holds it for a long period of time. Yes I double check prior runs but basically when it is tuned its done. So I know when I drive home and go back the next weekend I still have the same psi. Last thing is dot tires are street tires. They just don't last long as your regular dot 100+ thread wear. The Hks hyper d coil overs are proven lethal in drag racing. With less tuning require for fast runs. I'm now using tanabe but if I was still into drag my car would still have hyper ds on it. I have a reinforced Mazworx cross on it with solid diff bushings. Helped me increase torque tho.

Power to weight will always win in my book In a quarter mile track awd means nothing. Most efi comes with launch control Mine is set to 6.5 Mine was jumping to the left Lowered the pressure on the right tire and helped alot. So suspension and tires are destructive counter measures against awd cars. I sure fear no awd car out there. They are top prey in my food chain.

You did find a good deal but not a good swap. Not if you have a rb25det under the hood. Cheaper power is not always better.

Yeah usually I just use a normal garden hose and a flush kit that is sold on any auto parts store. Require you to run your car with the heater on and do not use the t plastic hose connector that's included in the kit. I advice buying a metal or copper one. Should not be more then 20 bucks far every thing needed minus the fluid.

Wiki answers Figures It took me almost 3 months on my last build to reach perfection( a point were I am satisfy and the peek performance) No one I know pushing serious power runs coolant. And if you read more on that wiki bs you will find out how that garbage called coolant or antifreeze creats viscous glass that builds up in your system. Experience is your best wiki. You will flip out even more if I tell you I don't even use synthetic oils. But you wouldn't understand. Either way it's useless to even learn about coolant were I live. One bottle of water wetter and fill up with distilled water. If have never seen snow.

Unless you live in frozen temperatures using coolant in a mod skyline motor is not a good idea. The ideal way or at least how I do it is as fallow. I use 50/50 coolant and water mix to lube(prelube) Then I flush the system which the info on how to is anywhere in the net. Flush until no presence of coolant is present in the motor. I use 1 bottle of water wetter and top it of with destilated water. Usually found in the super market for 1 dollar a galon. Basicly non chlorine water. I have a bleeder system so I let my car do it for it self. But you will possibly want to get a radiator bleeder kit from a auto parts store and bleed the system. Your done Coolant is so destructive in a high operating temp motor it's not even funny. Last time I checked coolant has a much less boiling point then water.

solid lifters,oem restrictors,oil cooler set up,N1 mod oil pump and this Nice flow

They don't make them no more. B&M made them for xsengineering Power pack Sadly B&M doesn't make them anymore. So no more ignition booster nor power pack. You can still get Hks dli and okada project plasma booster. Best price is okada. But this is for high hp applications. The z32 has a better design the the oem ignition booster. There was complains about this ignition boosters lowering the oem coilpacks. It's all rumors. Nothing has been proven nor I have I had issues. Miss information more likely to be found in forums. At the end it's your call.

I just know what works I run splitfire , b&m ignition booster cdi ,z32 igniton chip,ngk bkr8eix front/bkr9eix rear and Hks fcon vpro. Yes my splitfires has tape on them just for added safety. Been running 500 torque for 3yrs on nothing but 93 octane pump gas I use larger spark plug gaps due to the cdi Gap to 30 Tape or whatever it all does the same Insulation

you might want to inspects your coilpack harness and swap the ignitor chip to a better design model like a 300zx z32. Gap sizes yes you should run lower gap sizes until it is completely gone(missfire) To be able to run bigger gaps you will need some form of cdi or ignition booster. Tape does work Look for micro cracks on the coilpacks plastic housing.Specially on the lower side were it connects to the rubber boots.