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Lol A high boost T78 will Demand tire changes like you wouldn't believe. The demand wide rims to have atleast a 275 or a 300 wide tire to be able to find some grip. This means rims less the 10j are useless unless you can afford good sticky dot tires with treadware 100 or less. Plan ahead and get ready to spend some good cash on suspension and wheels/tires. Learn how suspension works. Become a expert in spring rates etc. The more you know the less money you waste. That's my 2cents

The worst enemy is heat delete the oem oil cooler from the block using a Datsun 510 oil filter stud Will require you to tap some water hoses tho

a an8 line in the rear of the cylinder head This helps drain the head Restrictors are a most There is info on what size all around the net Oil sump is a very good idea to mod. Not for more capacity but to keep the oil where its needed Usually with oil coolers you have to add more oil to the equation Pm me if you need to see what type of sump mod you will be looking for

Twin scroll with be best. I run a single scroll equal length love fab turbo header with a tial 60mm wg. Spool test was at .7 bar no boost controller. Results was: 5 psi at 3,200 rpm 10 psi at 4,300 rpm Which was fool boost We set our rev limit to 5,000 rpm Which was hitting rev limit at 4,800rpm You can check out Kelford camshafts They use a lower lift but the same duration as my tomei. Mine is 10.25 both camshafts They do help spool

Just use 3" aluminum pipes.not the eBay ones. Tube and fin allows the air to reach the radiator which in street cars works best. Just make sure you fmic is at least 80mm + thickness You should have no problem running 80 mm hard pipes just make sure you use t bolt type clamps and good couplers. I have 90mm to the intake and 80 mm from the turbo Good bov is also a good idea. If you buy those china fmic make sure you have it check for leaks prior to installing.

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Change the piping to 3" Use a larger intercooler Get rid of the bov Use a good one A twin scroll type turbo manifold Yes 100mm is a good idea if you can flow power I'm running a rb25 t78-33d with 270-272 camshaft set up I'm at 400hp at 10psi 100mm straight pipe with a vibrant 100mm muffler port and polish etc. Been running for 3yrs + no problems If you have any question just pm me

Lines are as fallow: -6an for up to 600hp -8an for up to 800hp Etc This is the usual way to determine what size of lines to run. Basicly that is. Use your oem line to your external fuel surge tank and run the 044 from the surge tank to the fuel rail I have never run corn fuel or what ever so might way to ask your local tuner what's best.usually you need to run larger injectors ect then what you will need to run on pump gas 2- dont use a Nismo fpr Use a sard Problem solve

Well the answer is simple Simple such on YouTube water wetter has all the info you need and why we don't use coolant anti freeze. Then you will see that water wetter also need assistance of a way to Tottally eliminate bubbles in your coolant system. This is where the swirl pod or bleeder tank comes into play Then you will start to see it all makes sense. Please notice you can't have one with out the other The swirl pod will be your number one source of pressure. This is why you will use a lower psi radiator cap to the radiator and a larger psi rated cap on your swirl pod. This allows the radiator to open faster then the swirl pod in order for your swirl pod to work properly. So the water wetter will replace your coolant mixture , the swirl pod will replace your radiator pressure relief and the billion thermostat will replace your thermostat which will allow more flow at lower temps. Now you most figure out the radiator set up. Aluminum radiators are just for weight reduction and not and will not improve your cooling system. This means you will need more air flow. It's easy to solve. A proper duct to help exit the hot air out of your engine bay. But this is based on the amount of heat your engine generates. I am sponsor by fluidyne and my set up in this area is not compatible with yours. Usually just relocate the radiator in a angle that will push the hot air away for your engine. Hood vents are usually made for this.

There is no need to experiment.RBs are old engines.If you are into competition or real racing the set up is there. My car runs no more then 170s F when pushed real hard with hitting rev limit at 9.5 total destruction. Bleeder or swirl pods.The best way is to use a 16lbs radiator cap on the radiator it self and use a 18lbs radiator cap in the swirl pod.This bleeder tanks are RBs best friend and a good thermostat.Billion is the best. I have never been in a rb running more then 180 f Do not use coolant. Water and water wetter

My cooling set up: Billion thermostat z32 Fluidyne 27x4 radiator 37degrees up Tube and fin type fmic Swirl pod(bleeder tank) Flex-a-lite dual slim pull fans with Thermo controller Expansion tank(overflow tank) Return water manifold Bang 18lbs radiator cap and 18lbs swirl pod pressure cap Hood ducts to extract the hot air away from the motor and twin 100mm ducts from front facia to the block Lower front splitter covers front to the tranny bell house to insulate heat from the pavement . 13raw oil cooler -10 an to a grex set up(oem oil cooler deleted)using a s30 or Datsun 510 oil filter stud. This oil cooler has a t type fitting with a -4 an hose that goes straight to the turbo oil feed with a -3an restrictor. All parts that are heat sources are Thermo insulated. I run 165f on dd and 175f max on track Egt showing bellow 12 on 9.5 Rpms With is candy

Doesn't matter I have made custom fuel pipes forever with or with out oem lines Search for Humlebee on photobucket.com There is some pictures of the ones I have made for my friends Best form is twing side feeds and single top return Never worry about fuel starvation ever again.

I have used mines for 3 yrs now Have taken the head off like 4 times for upgrades So yes

346hp .7 bar wg spring, no boost controller,at 7 psi 60% throttle,rev limit to 5k rpms with custom diff gear ratio.Super low gears.lol.Nothing but 93 octane pump gas.

The diagram is missing the single -8an that goes to the turbo intake. Which should be at the left side of the green fitting. Usually it divides to T hose to the IM and the Turbo Intake. This makes it run as oem spec. I always run it to the turbo intake.Since that way it uses the turbo vacuum to exit the air out of the crank

aluminized steel can work to.You can weld it easy to SS.

but thats for oem boost levels.Greater boost levels require tuff stuff.I would do the MLS,Aftermarket timing belt and arp head studs atleast. There is no reason to take chances.The basics is to build reliable power.

best way will be to use top feed types.That way you can build a proper fuel rail. Add a aftermarket fpr in the equation. You can buy a fuel pipe for cheap. But this days there is absolutly no reason to custom fab a fuel pipe unless you will be pushing serious power in the future. and don't make it out of Stainless steel.Please use aluminum.

True. I run Tanabe It all depends on what you want them for.

To build a RB27 using rb26 pistons you will need at leats 87mm pistons.I wouldn't use oem pistons.You can use the rods but..... The Rod bolts most be replaced.Use arp rod bolts. Since you will need to get your block bored out make sure you tell the machine shop how much boost you planning on running. Take the block,crankshaft, Piston ringsand pistons to them and they will gap the piston rings for you to spec. RB26 crank shaft don't like low gaps in their bearings(rod bearing clearences). I suguest sticking to 2.1 or above.Nothing more then 2.9 or less then 2.1. Use high quality rings.The machine shop will tell you which oil you will use.I use conventional non synthetic 10w40.I change my oil with in 1000 miles or after every track day. The bearings will have to be aftermarket and use calico coating types. Inspect the crank shaft prior to having it micropolish and balanced to make sure it has a a longer collar drive. Use arp main and head studs with a MLS based on what type of gas you are planing to run. Upgrade your oil pump to at least a N1 to improve the oil pressure get a good oil catch can and make sure to install the rear main seal the proper way. after all this the trick is to install good balanced parts that will go on the crank. Good clutch and a good harmonic balancer. I suguest you mod the oil sump as well. Oh and please do a port and polish.To improve the rb25 flow. The power you make is based on how much air can flow in the cylinder head.Which 25s are restrictive. Bore size will be based on what would your boost levels be. So plan on which type of gas you are planning to use. Up grading your cooling system it's a most.Oil cooler etc. My compression is a 8.1 but I run nothing but 93 oct all day. Since I run a 1.8 mls metal gasket(hg). I can't tell you bore size but was set up for 32psi of boost and I run 26psi all day. Don't worry the machine shop knows which bore size is best for you. Good luck

The proplem I see in this new coilpacks this days is that there is no quality control or any test other then the ones done by the buyers. It is comun to see the china brands not testing anything Splitfire offers all info and testing so you know they have pass qc I have had splitfire for two yrs now I run a power pack that shots 19volts to the coils Which have damaged my oem coilpacks one time Two yrs of 19 bolts a larger gaps Over heating and pure abuse they still run great Now my point for qc is that if you google this china non qc products you will find bad and good feed back. So basicly it is a 50/50 chance. I know if many parts the are sold in Japan that has been made in china. But usually it's not completely done in china. Like fpr Internals and final assemble is done in Japan. But the outer case are done in china. Which later explains why you by a fpr and the pressure stays after the fuel pump is off. Now the ones that are completely done in china with out qc Fall all the way down as soon as you turn the fuel pump off QC is what determines the out come QC also determines that all parts or every fpr meets the complete standards require by each company QC This is what determines price range This is why your china non qc products cost less Plain and simple

I was going to do that as well.Just by taking the wrap and foam off exposing the bare plastic of the dash board. Then you can add a layer of carbon fiber. But then I thought about shinny paints don't do well. It could have a massive effect on your vision while driving. So all I did was made this huge pod until I have the time for visuals.

Which cylinder is misfiring? Does it do it at idle?

Solid diff mounts and rear subframe bushings helped me alot to transfer the torque better.At least a engine torque damper which helps shifting.Diff gears is also a good thing to do.Some how higher gears are pref over lower gears. My set up was MAZWORX cross member,Solid rear bushing on both subframe and diff,HKS Hype D rear coil overs,2 way lsd can't remeber my diff gears but sure it was higher then 411s,17 x 9.5 wraped in yokohama advans which I still use or nitto 100 threadware tires pressure set at 28 left and 25 at right.Depends on which way the car tends to jump at launch.No front sway bar and oem rear sway bar.But this is when you know about suspension travel. I have never drag race a awd.I only do rwd.Not sure if deleting the front antiroll bar will help awd aplications....Never been a fan of drag racing.We go there to goof around.I just love to use the launch controller on my hks.lol.So much fun. I had it set at 5k rpm.But this depends on how fast your turbo spools which has nothing to do with your thread..Ebake tech helps as well.