skysthelimiter

Would be interesting to see how a top mount setup might go seeing as you could really reduce the length of the piping. Don't know how you would go about fitting one for practical use but would be good to see what it could do on a dyno for some giggle factor.

Hi Jordan, I'm glad I've managed to inspire someone, although I unfortunately don't know what the future holds for the black car now. I have lots of options and scenarios in play and change my mind daily. My current line of thinking is to pull the motor, gearbox and all the goodies out of the black one and put them in the white one so I can start enjoying track days etc. If I can manage living with a shell in my shed I will let it sit there and possibly toy around with an engine conversion in the future. In regards to your car I guess it all comes down to whether you can justify the time, effort and money but I will say it does feel rewarding when yo see the progress and it is something you have accomplished yourself. If you love the car though I would go for it and definitely post up a build thread!

Yeah for the price they are pretty good..the rims on the white one not so much.

Nice car similar to what im aiming for one mine.

Was a bit worried about being cop bait with multi-coloured doors so did a quick rattle can spray on the passenger door which looks pretty average but less obvious from a distance at least. Also went wreck shopping and picked up the following bits Side skirts Rear pods Replacement bonnet (current one has big rust spots) White line strut brace, front sway bar, rear camber and toe arms White gauge with LED kit Tein super streets with EDFC Sprayed the strut brace black along with some of the cooler piping and also straightened up the FMIC while I was at it. Im still not all that happy how the front bar sits as it is not all that flush. Fitted coilovers and edfc which is a pretty cool unit. Something that had been bugging me was how nuggety this thing looks and with lots of rust spots appearing it would obviously need a fair bit of work getting it to look at least semi decent. The other thing at the back of my mind is that although I only just fit in the car with the sunroof if I want to do track work later on my head is either going to have to be on a massive lean, pop up through the sunroof or I just sit on the floor once the helmet goes on. Alas another r33 was bought. Although this one is a 94 it appears to be a S1.5 with the series 2 motor. This one was also bought unregistered and barely running however the body and paint is actually pretty straight with only the boot missing some clear coat. Unfortunately the interior leaves a bit to be desired but I can just pilfer what I need from the black one. Initial diagnosis of the motor is that it is spewing water out the back of the block due to having popped a freeze plug however it will eventually start with much pumping of the gas. I am currently in the process of removing the motor so will hopefully have a better diagnosis by the end of the weekend. Anyway enough typing...a few pics with more to come.

Yeah staying with the stock rail. I have read that the stock one is fine but I already have a fuel reg and gauge sitting there from my old car so I figured it wouldn't hurt being able to monitor the fuel pressure on the dyno if I ever needed to.

Been a while since I posted as I have been busy with house renos and lost motivation for a couple of months where it was just sitting in the shed with no doors however I am back on track again and hope to start having a bit of fun with it soon! Fixed Replaced the Sunroof which now works The doors are now purple in colour Heater core leaked in the car so I have bypassed it for now Installed Exhaust Gizmo EBC Z32 ECU with Nistune Just Jap cooler POD filter R32GTR seats Sony head unit 350Z Track V1 wheels RDA front slotted and dimpled rotors Bendix Ultimate pads - front Removed R32GTR seats – I couldn’t get comfortable in these maybe because I’m too tall for them…either way they wouldn’t be low enough to wear with a helmet being a sunroof model so I decided to swap them for a Turbo setup Parts purchased pending install 800cc highflowed injectors Works AFPR Walbro 255 Fuel Pump Z32 AFM RX7 / VL hybrid turbo machined to a T04E – really don’t know a lot about this turbo but it supposedly made 330kw on an rb20. High mount China Mani Tial 38mm wastegate PLX wideband To do / wish list Ripped apart a laptop to use as a carputer but ended up buying a cheap acer tablet from Dicksmith which runs windows 8.1 and should do everything i want it to, just need to mount it so it looks decent. Need to remount the intercooler as some of the piping is a bit wonky and the front bar doesn’t sit nicely Install Z32 AFM, Walbro, AFPR and fuel injectors. Fit an oil cooler and catch can setup Probably not going to use this turbo setup now might try flog it and find something more suitable. Get the car tuned Paint everything! The exterior looks pretty horrible especially with the purple doors. Might look into plastidip and I would also like to black the engine bay Once the engine side of things is done I would like to get a Bilstein / king spring setup installed like the ones Sydney kid used to do. Take the car to some track days and break things! Exhaust R32 GTR seats I had in for a while 800cc injectors Carputer install which ended up being a waste of time Lovely purple doors and passenger side skirt Front rotors and pads installed 350Z Track V1 Rims - These are Rays forged and almost as light as the Te37s Made up a gauge holder for the gizmo EBC using an old piece of trim and plastic welder. Still need to bog it up and make it look a little prettier but looks better than the cable ties I had been using.

I have acquired an RX7 / VL turbo hybrid that I haven't been able to find a heap of info on. Apparently it has been machined to fit a t04e wheel and supposedly came off an rb20 that made 330kw at the wheels. The turbo also came with a china stainless high mount and a 35mm tial waste gate. I was planning to modify the stock exhaust mani on my r33 and fit it with the external gate setup but just hoping someone could answer some questions before I waste my time trying to fit it as it doesn't seem to be an easy bolt on. - Does the VL t3 bolt up to the r33 exhaust mani? - If so Would the stock R33 turbo lines fit the VL turbo? - Is it worth trying to modify a stock VL dump pipe ie too restrictive? - Is the power figure I was quoted with realistic for this type of turbo? From what I can gather at the very least I will need to buy a VL dump pipe and possibly oil and water lines if the stock ones wont fit. I am happy to do some fab work as I have access to all the stuff needed but it might end up being too much hassle than its worth.

Car was hitting boost cut anywhere from 8.8 psi to about 11.5 psi at around 4500rpm. Even with the actuator arm disconnected it is still building boosting and hitting boost cut although a little higher in the rev range and only when I'm hard on the throttle.

So a bit of a background on the issue I'm having. I have a 95 manual r33 gtst which was completely stock when I bought it and for the most part it drove pretty well however I did notice a little bit of a surge or slight miss sometimes after 4500rpm but put it down to a possible boost leak. I later added a 3" turbo back exhaust with bell mouth dump, just jap fmic and a gizzmo boost controller. Since doing these mods the car will now continue to overboost even with the boost controller disconnected and the wastegate actuator disconnected from the flapper. The flapper also seems to have a nice range of motion so I dont believe it is fouling on the dump. I have done some reading around however this doesnt seem to be a common issue with these levels of mods and mostly seems to be related to bigger turbos however mine is stock so I am a little stumped as to how it is still building boost. I have since tried - cleaning the maf - checking for boost leaks - Installed a nistune ecu with stock S2 maps Is it possible the stock wastegate port is too small? Anything else worth checking? I would like to be able to get the car back to stock boost levels before having the nistune tuned.

Bit of an update I took the car over the pits on Tuesday and to my surprise it passed first go so I was pretty happy with that! I then took the exhaust off to a shop to get a bung welded in for the 02 sensor and got it priced up to have it fitted but was going to cost more than the exhaust itself so I decided that I will chuck it on myself another day. Once I got home I started to work on the spare door and side skirts. Unfortunately after closer inspection I found that the door had quite a few rust spots on the inside and it wouldn't be worth fixing up.I have since sourced a set of doors that I plan to pick up on Sunday. While I was at it I also ran an oil flush through the engine and then added in some more lifter free to the new oil and after running around a little bit it has managed to free up the lifter ticking which has resulted in the engine being nice and quiet so once again I am pretty happy with that. Overall the car seems to drive pretty nice for the exception of the rotors which appear to be a little warped so I have ordered some RDA dimpled and slotted front rotors so will see if they make a difference. I have also noticed that when running at WOT the car will do a jerk and then push a little harder. I am guessing this is not normal behavior but have read a stock car runs 2 stages of boost so I would like to hook up the boost controller to see what it is running at. Decided to give it a little wash before the pits...a bit like polishing a turd really Sh*****t sonnnn it passed the pits! Stupid rust spots on the replacement door

Haha yeah probably I just wanted to see what it would look like mainly. It probably wouldnt be too hard to clean if it was gloss paint but its matt so the dirt and grease will stick to it a bit more cheers hopefully it will stay somewhat interesting..

So after a couple of months of gathering parts and working on the car I have decided to have a crack at getting it over the pits. I feel that I have addressed most of the items on the last pit inspection and it seems to drive pretty nice so if it does fail it shouldn't be for anything too major. A few pictures to how I got it to this point Firstly here is a couple more pics to show how much hate this thing has received...key gouges in the paint and drivers window :S Finished look of the rust fixed up Mate helped me remove all the aftermarket wiring which was a bit of a mess Any ideas what this does? Some sort of horn from Japan Car had a hesitation at WOT so plasti dipped the coilpacks and rail then cable tied them together. So far a few quick drives and no more hesitation so will see how long that lasts for. Bought some interior pieces that had already been painted from a wreck...not really a fan of the red gear boot so will change that down the track. Few parts to fix up after its licensed. New door and skirts should cover up the side damage. Hoping to get a working sunroof with the parts from both of them Let the modding begin! (once its licensed) PLX wideband and PLX DM-100. Am thinking I might try and fit one in the cluster where the oil pressure gauge is. Gizmo boost controller / turbo timer from my old car Picked up a turbo back xforce exhaust for $150 Also have a couple more parts in the post on their way.

Yeah old one was an S1.5 as well. Was pretty mild just the usual exhaust fmic and safc etc but was in pretty good condition overall. Shame I sold it I should have kept it but I'm looking forward to some sunroof action in this one once I get it going only problem is I'm not sure how much head room I will have once I put on a helmet seeing as I'm about 6'4 :S

Haha yeah I know I had to hunt around for a while for a replacement steering wheel as one of the reasons the car failed the pits was due to the steering wheel falling apart. I ended up getting one from a wreck on gumtree for $100 with the airbag. It is by no means perfect but a lot better than what was on there. I will double check the plug tonight. Will need to know which series its is for when I get the nistune.

Yeah personally I like the S1.5 the best. I am fairly certain it is a series 2 motor as it has a pink label MAF but there was an extra series 1 Ecu sitting on the floor when I bought it and the current ECU is a refurb so it doesnt have the model number on it so I was trying to figure out which one it was for a bit. The guy before me swapped the head over so I'm guessing the extra ECU came with it.

I paid $2700 for it which at the time I didn't think was too bad seeing as there were people in WA asking more than that for unregistered NA and Auto R33's. I estimate that I have probably spent an extra $500ish for parts that I have bought off of wrecks to bring it back up to scratch so in reality it probably wasn't that cheap especially seeing how much rust there ended up being. Truth is I probably fixated on it being that it was a 95 (like the series 1 front bar and the series 2 spoiler) and had a sunroof.

As you can see in my last post so far I have done the work myself and there is other bits of surface rust in various areas which will need attention too. The thing I need to figure out is how much effort I should put into the appearance. The anal part of me wants to go all out and give it a respray and do it properly but I definitely want to do lots of track days etc with this car and if I go all out I might be more hesitant when it comes to the track so its finding the balance which I guess iI will figure out int time.

more to come

Issues with the car that need attention Motors ticking - think it is just the lifters though as it seems to run well battery needs clamping down couple of new tyres brake lights not working speedometer not working lots of dodgey wiring that needs attention fix up interior replace steering wheel fix sunroof noisy power steering repair the front bar fix the rust hole in the boot replace the passenger door replace ignition barrell - key falls out service - oil, filters, radiator flush fix the heater Random TLC Started work on the boot sill and cut out as much rust as I could without having to take out the rear windscreen. Due to the position of the hole it made it hard to get power tools in there to remove the rust so used a rust converter on the bits i couldnt get to. Of all the parts that need fixing this is the one that worries me the most as the rust could quite easily come back again. Decided to weld the new metal in two pieces. This is the first time ive tried to weld a car body and bought a cheap mig for the job. Ended up going gasless which did the job but my skills could definitely do with some practice. Its not pretty but will hopefully do the job. Made it hard grinding it flat as I couldnt get an angle grinder in there so had to use a dye grinder. I decided not to weld at the top section near the windscreen as the metal was a bit thin so used some metal tec bog stuff. I didnt end up taking any other photos after this but I will put on up on the finished result. Decided to pull the head off and have a look due to the lifter tick I was going to pull out the lifters and clean them but decided I would try some engine flush and lifter free first. Also painted the rockers and changed the gaskets while I was there. Will be going for a black theme under the bonnet with just the rockers being white. Wasnt to happy with the matt paint so might pull them out at a later stage and go with a gloss finish. I have owned a plastic welder for years now but never actually used it until now which presented the perfect opportunity. Even though my skills aren't that good it was a bit of fun and I think once I sand it down and bog it up it shouldn't really be noticeable. The plan is just to get the car over the pits and registered before I start going all out on the appearance. The only work I am doing is the stuff that it would fail on at the pits for now.

Guessing this will be a boring build and not in the least bit epic so this is more for me to track my progress and use for possible future motivation however feel free to input Bought this stock standard unregistered scum spec 95 R33 recently. Current plans Get the thing rego'd again and back on the road take it to lots of track events make it a little more visually pleasing chuck on some goodies for better performance learn to use nistune and try not to wreck my motor Short term parts list 3" exhaust front mount cooler and piping z32 nistune ecu plx wideband gizmo boost controller suspension / handling upgrades Now for the pictures which are somewhat uninspiring Bought it looking like this After getting it home Passenger side damage Sunroof which doesnt work and has a little bit of rust Rust holes in the boot sill makes me sad Interior not too bad but steering wheel and gear knob (held on by rubber bands) needed attention Front bar was cracked and side bracket had snapped off Tape fixes everything Boring engine bay Defect list Not sure who wrote it but they are probably right My old 33 that I owned for a while. Looked a bit nicer than this nugget