Deep Dish V35

^^ haha yep thats how i do it too, just peel back the inner wheelarch lining and scratch all the skin off your forearms

did you touch the bulb glass? or drag it on something when installing it?

the "stretch look" all depends on the actual tyre you choose to fit. some tyres are made with bulgey sidewalls, some come with extra rubber for rim protection. some have neither. its the hardest bit of getting the right look. i have had situations in the past where a 265 in one brand was actually wider than a 285 in another brand. it really helps if you can see the tyre you want already fitted to a another wheel before you buy your own. my fronts are currently 20x8.5 with a 225/35/20, they have about 15mm stretch each side and it still looks almost square

1.51" ???? dont you mean 1.51mm?? that amount of poke with the wheels you PMd me? on a sedan yes, on a coupe no. 20x10 +25 should be a good fit with minimal poke. i think the poke is shown in millimetres on that website but i cant check on my iphone just out of interest, what were the mounting face to fender measurements on your coupe?

yeah was hoping the blank plate would keep the sensor operating properly so i wouldnt have to do wiring... in that case, what spec resistor? all i know its 10a

just wanting to clarify with someone on here before i tackle this job, if i make a blanking plate/gasket for this hole in the EGR will it set off a CEL? and is this the only recycling point?

a few of us are quite knowledgeable and can help, depends on which end of town youre in. headlight is easy, just fiddly window motor is easy, just fiddly ipod cable costs just a few dollars to make jack from a 350z or go to nisswreck any idea of desired wheel size? budget? i might be interested in your factory stereo/trim panel if you upgrade

^^ are they turned on?

alternatively.... if you want your current wheels to be more flush, you can use the result of the calculation from my second post to buy a spacer that matches that measurement (for me, measurement of -5 means i should fit a 5mm spacer) to make the rim flush with the fender (slip-on spacers are not something i would use as they will reduce the amount of stud thread inside my wheel nuts)....... which worries me more than the whole "legality" thing

Nice chart, needs to be redrawn to scale tho. And as it says, definitely doesnt allow for camber

most LED reverse lights wont be bright enough to see where you are driving at night...

Ok here is how to measure the camber and adjust the original offset calculation accordingly This is a 2 person job unless you were born with 3 arms. Tools needed: 2x straight edges Tape measure First thing is to cut a straight edge from some steel or alloy bar so that it is the same height as the RIM. You will need to measure the height of the rim alone using a tape measure. You will find it is around an inch or 25mm more than the actual rim size. see pic 1 pic 1 (click to enlarge) After you have made this tool, get a friend to hold it VERTICALLY and directly onto the centre line of the wheel so that it touches the rim lip on the top and bottom of the rim. see pic 2. pic 2 (click to enlarge) Now using your second straight edge, hold it so that it JUST TOUCHES the top centre of your fender/wheel arch, and hangs perfectly upright and alongside the first straight edge without touching it. see pic 3 pic 3 (click to enlarge) now heres the tricky bit... You need to measure 2 places. First place to measure is at the TOP of the rim, the distance from the wheel side of the first straight edge to the wheel side of the second straight edge. see pic 4. you can see the measurement at my thumb is approx 10mm. Yours will be different pic 4 (click to enlarge) Second measurement. Try to do this as close as possible to the same height as you originally measured the mounting face when doing the steps in my first post. Once again, the distance from the wheel side of the first straight edge to the wheel side of the second straight edge. see pic 5. you can see the measurement at my thumb is approx 5mm. Yours will be different pic 5 (click to enlarge) Now take the first measurement from the second measurement. It should give you a negative number. For me it is -5mm. That number is the adjustment you make to the offset calculator for that particular wheel's offset when using the website mentioned in my first post. The website does not allow for camber, so this calculation fixes it. on the website it will show the wheel now poking out that far when the car has no camber. this is correct. If youve just done your front wheel, you can now go and measure the rear wheel Hope that is easy enough

Forgot to say that all offsets are allowing for slight lowering of the car. The lower the car is, the less flush those measurements will be

yeah those commodores tend to have something similar to a $3 LED strip stuck to the front of the light. Most disgusting.

Just spent 3 hours writing this up, hopefully I havent missed anything... Here is a simplied way to measure your car for wheel fitment when you want to upgrade. You can only do this method if your car currently has an open type of wheel which allows easy access to the brake disc. What i am going to get you to do is measure your car for width, then use a website to calulate the offset. Tools required 1. tape measure 2. a 60cm ruler or some kind of straight edge like square tube(that long or longer) 3. pen and paper to write your measurements 4. access to the following website on a PC (doesnt work on apple devices) http://www.jonathanr...fset-calculator NOTE - It is important to make sure your tyres are inflated properly and your car is parked on level ground!!! We will do this whole thing for just your front wheel first. When that is done, re-do this whole tutorial for your back wheel. BEGIN! While holding the very top of the ruler or straight edge, let it hang so that the upper part is just resting against the highest point of your wheel arch, as seen in picture 1. It must not contact anything else at this point. pic 1 (click to enlarge) Using the tape measure, you need to rest the hook end of the tape against the WHEEL MOUNTING FACE of the brake disc (or a part near it which is level with that face) and measure DIRECTLY OUTWARDS to the hanging ruler, as seen in picture 2. If you hold the tape measure on an angle, your measurement will be incorrect - it must not be held on an angle. note: In my pic I was unable to touch the wheel mounting face on the brake disc so I touched the end of the tape against a part of the brake caliper that I could see was level with that mounting face. Another thing is to make sure you are measuring to a point that is as close to the centre cap of the wheel as possible, as camber will affect your final result. pic 2 (click to enlarge) The point at which your tape measure reaches the inside of the straight edge is your first measurement (which is the distance from the wheel mounting face to your fender) take this measurement off the tape measure and record it in millimeters as "Fender distance to hub" on your notepad. You can see my measurement as being 85mm, yours might be different. Now using just the tape measure, measure from the top centre of your fender's wheelarch, across the top of your tyre, to the side of the suspension strut or shock absorber. This measurement is the absolute widest you can go between the strut/shock and the fender. See picture 3. You can see my measurement is 245mm (approx 9.5 inches) overall. All alloy wheels are actually ONE INCH WIDER than the width they state on them - a wheel sold as 8.5 inches wide will actually be around 9.5 inches wide OVERALL as the measurement the manufacturers give you is for the inside where the tyre bead would seal. Now I know that with the right offset I can ONLY JUST fit an 8.5 inch wide wheel as it would physically be 9.5 inches wide. pic 3 (click to enlarge) Using your hand, reach around the tyre and feel for anything that comes near the back of the wheel. The shock/strut SHOULD be the closest thing to the back of your front wheel, but on the rear you might also have clearance issues with the trailing arm. All you need to do is check the difference in gaps to see if this is going to be an issue. If it is going to be an issue, you'll need to allow for it by having a narrower wheel. Now go to the website I mentioned earlier. http://www.jonathanr...fset-calculator On this page, the black lines represent the wheel, the blue lines are the tyre, the red line is the fender/wheel arch. We will be using the "wheel one" settings and the left hand picture for the new wheel in this example 1. Insert the rim diameter you want. This is the easy bit. 2. Leave spacer/adapter measurement at ZERO 3. Remebering what I said earlier about wheel widths, enter the width you want PLUS the one inch, making sure you dont go wider than that overall measurement from the fender to the strut that you measured on your car. 4. Enter the Fender distance to hub measurement you wrote on that piece of paper. Now adjust the offset measurement until the points of the black lines touch the red line. When they touch, you have found your PERFECT MEASUREMENT for FLUSH WHEEL FITMENT. NOTE this website does not allow for camber. The lower your car is, the more camber it will tend to have, meaning you can run wider (ie: less) offset closer to zero or even into negative numbers. I can show you how to allow for camber in another post at a later date.. on V35's the front doesnt camber too much when lowered, but the rear does exponentially. All you have to do now is set your desired tyre width and profile. The blue line will show the shape of the tyre you want to fit and whether it will be a stretched fitment or not. Using the WHEEL TWO settings, enter the width, profile, and diameter of the FACTORY FITTED tyres listed on the tyre placquard on your car. In the box on the bottom of the page you can now see under WHEEL TWO the standard tyre height and rim diameter that the car came with. You should aim to match these 2 measurements with your new tyres on WHEEL ONE so that you dont upset your speedometer's accuracy. You have now finished your first wheel and can write down all the settings listed under wheel one. Now go back to the top of this page and do the same thing for the opposite end of the car. Things to consider: -Large multi piston brake calipers such as BREMBO or BEAR BRAKES stick out past the mounting face of your brake disc. These will quite often have clearance issues with aftermarket wheels. It is necessary to measure how far your brake caliper sits past the wheel mounting face and make sure that the rear of your desired wheels have this clearance. -Lowering your car will change the amount of clearance you have as the wheels tend to increase in camber angle, making the top of the wheels "tuck in", especially on the rear of cars with IRS. The lower the car is, the lesser the offset of the wheels can be.

Thanks chris. good to know its not going to be a simple exercise.... Howait - I think we're only going to cover standard fitment. Anything that involves converting a car to another shape should go in a different thread. feel free to start that if you feel like it

single generic bucket seat, adjustable back grey in colour. good/average condition. needs a steam clean perfect for making a racing seat for your gaming console $50

e-go cost will be $33. 75x45x20cm box at 10kg

this post will be the unofficial chart of comparison between Japanese Nissan and American Infiniti models. to be used as a reference when tyring to buy US parts to suit your JDM vehicle and vice versa. i'll start some basics, if other people can add info that would be great. Pics would be good but are only relevant for cars that havent had people modify them at home obviously it will be impossible to make this perfect as the level of mechanical/electrical options make things a bit harder. this mostly just applies to external parts. it will be easy to get carried away with details, not sure how detailed we want this to be.. and i'm not entirely sure ive got my starting details correct so feel free to fix anything. as people correct the information, we'll just get the Moderators to apply it to this post. ---------------------- JDM V35 Skyline Series One Sedan Build dates - /2001 - /2003 Engine Variants: VQ25, VQ30, VQ35 US equivalent is Infinity G35 Sedan Build dates - /2003 - /2004 Engine Variants: VQ35 -Series 1 and Series 2 grille and bonnet only interchangeable as a pair. -Bootlid/lights/bumpers from S2 will fit ok. -Coupe panels/lights do not fit -bushes/brakes same as 350z -engine components must be from same capacity US service manuals here: 2003 - http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2003/ 2004- http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2004/ ----------------------- JDM V35 Skyline Series 2 Sedan Build dates - /2004 - /2005 US equivalent is Infinity G35 Sedan Build dates - late 2004 to /2005 US service manuals 2004.5 - http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2004.5/ 2005 - http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2005 ---------------------- JDM V35 Skyline Series One Coupe Build dates - /2001 - etc etc

its a serious thing when a main fuseable link blows. do lots of checking for melted parts before driving any further. this is a good reason to remember to use adequate insulation or conduit when doing any aftermarket electricals... i can remember way back in 1991 we were driving to the gold coast and while passing a Jaguar at about 125kmh the main fuseable link at the battery popped for no reason. left us travelling at 125 with no lights, ignition, power steering. the jag continued driving back past us while we were in the wrong lane facing oncoming traffic. luckily just 1km out of a town where we could call the NRMA (this was before mobile phones). the guy just bypassed it with heavy gauge wire and we went on our way with no other problems - which was stupid because it couldve been a serious electrical fault that wouldve set the car on fire...

ive seen them in the bumper vents of a v35 here and they looked stupid in my opinion. the ones in aftermarket headlights are better but still kinda out of place in all honesty, any DRLs bought cheap on ebay are not worth the effort. they are not bright enough, the colour is too blue, and they dont match any of the cars existing lines. to be a proper DRL you would need EACH LED to be a minimum of 3w to be seen in daylight. and they arent cheap. Narva make them.... google any car that has factory DRLs to see what i mean about DRLs integrating into flowing body lines.... its one of those things that never really work as an afterthought. i personally would look at the 2011 porsche carrera bumper lights with DRLs as a styling idea simply because of the similar front shape

i'll start a new thread for this...

and this is where you still need to be careful. i think someone needs to do a proper year by year comparison between jdm and usdm

is this just a bonnet clearance issue?

i know its not relevant in this case, but my thoughts would be: id assume most of the population would see the exotic INFINITI as the proper brand since it is in the showroom, and see nissan as the asian imitator... and then get put off by seeing "boring old nissan" on the vin plates, relating it to a cheap copy of a good car. much like the old VR commodore/lexcen thing where people put commodore badges on the outside. it was still the same car but nobody wanted the lexcen