Deep Dish V35

just be careful with the hairdrier... it can make your paint bubble if heated too much

but didnt you say your biggest problem was having the rear wheel lift up and lose traction when trying to get into your steep driveway? making things stiffer will mean youll be parking in the street... ive got no bracing, and yet i can still hear the pillars creak when i try to get over my driveway gutter

regardless of what your odometer says, the first thing you should do is give it a 100,000km full service. all fluids, plugs, filters. there are mechanics at importers in australia that can wind back the odometer to any number you want for less than $100. better to be safe than sorry

mine has cut plastic. less than 10mm taken off. when its under the rubber seal you cant see the edge. just sit it ontop of the lip then trace the steel edge with a white pencil. cut inside the white line. perfection

its definitely something that works better on newer cars where the paint has not been weathered

you have a choice. either cut the lip off the new plastic panel or trim 10mm off the steel lip on the car. i know which is easier...

the things on the front of the engine with the blue plugs (assuming you have a VQ25 or 30 motor) are just electronic magnets. they unbolt easy enough, the mating surfaces of the magnets can be inspected but not much else. The gasket is metal so can be re-used. the sound issue is most likely something to do with the camshafts rather than the magnet unit

aparrently you can buy the servo's from dubai for $450 each. i cant get in contact with the guy who can get them tho

must be a setting on your phone then

hills drive will always count me out. i prefer a 40kmh cruise along the beach

click on the users name, it opens a page. scroll to the bottom and select "send me a message"

he used to have it set very low. stock wheels were almost tucking under the arches last time i saw it

reverse lights are powered thru a single 10A fuse (#71) in the fuse box behind the battery number plate lights are powered thru a single 10A fuse (#75) in the same fuse box, which also powers your tail lights and parkers. if either fuse was blown you would have many more lights not woking. edit - it wont be a fuse problem but heres a quick tip. number plate bulb is a T10. you could swap it with your boot interior bulb to check if its a fuse or possibly a socket problem reverse bulbs - just swap them around to check if its a fuse or even a poor socket. theyre an oddball T15 i think

^^ plus trying to use the "but this is how i bought it" excuse never wins either i would say that any place that does compliance should have the paperwork, or via your states rego office oh and the reason its illegal - extra track width puts extra load on your wheel bearings (bearings have a load capacity that fall within ADR's) that could cause them to fail, which would result in a potentially fatal accident. if you were to find a wheel bearing that fits, which also is documented as being safe under that extra load, you could get an engineer to inspect, test, and possibly write you a certificate saying your combination of wide wheels and upgraded bearings are within ADR spec and safe for use. the problem you will then have is steering geometry, as the position of the front wheel and the king pin inclination are designed by manufacturers to align to a specific measurement so that the vehicle's steering reacts a certain way. shifting the centre line of the front wheel away from the king pin centre line makes steering heavy and no longer in line with Ackerman steering geometry principles.... good luck getting an engineer to look past that...

the previous owner was a bit of a hack job on all his cars.... did he put the original suspension back in or is it still on the bump stops?

a late recovery from the tsunami?

id say its just one of those things that can only be determined with an audio clip

^^make sure the nuts that hold everything together inside that shield are tight too. theyre live. you can test if the 120amp fuse is blown by checking both nuts with a multimeter for 12v+

oh and theres also a 120amp fuse within the red battery clamp shield. that one will kill everything if blown

from what i can tell, there are 5 main fuseable links before any power gets to anything else. 1@10amp, 2@40amp, 2@80amp. the 80 amp ones are the ones id be looking for first. oh and also, wire brush or file the contact surfaces of the battery clamps and posts

i'd be checking for a fuseable link on the main + cable near the battery. on other cars they are contained within a black plastic shielded part on the main power cable directly after the battery clamp. not sure about the v35 tho. it is either within the red battery clamp shield.... or i think it is within the fuse box behind the battery. it'll possibly be a big fuse, square, maybe pink or white with clear top. may even be bolted in. you can check all this if you have the right tools (which im guessing you wont) or just do a visual inspection of all big fuses (which is not easy in that location)

i was just thinking some mods might be tried and tested, and proven to lose power... eg throttle spacer as its never mentioned

^^ RHD floor mats will be available soon at an inflated price

i think in general, most people living in the world of stance and mexican offset have researched the rules and decided its better to be rebellious. and not all of us need spacers to get there. it is important to know your local laws so you alone can choose to abide by them or not

maybe he wants one with genuine km rather than melbourne converted hahaha