daymo

The first time I did it it was really hard to turn over by hand but was possible and I had done all the work with the engine in the car but this time the mechanics had already pulled the engine out and had already loosened the con rods so I didn't get to find out for myself just had to go on their word but this time its was a really good build and it turns over by hand heaps easier. I learnt alot from my mistakes the first time now I just need to fine tune it to get it running perfectly and every time it feels like I am getting closer to getting there I just feel like im missing something and can't quiet get it to idle properly.

Hey guys so its been awhile since I updated my progress but I replaced the ignition module and got the car started but ended up 3 houses from the mechanics and it died again pushed it to the shop and after 2 weeks they told me the engine had seized and would never go again so I got a car trailer and towed it home so over the last few months I have pulled the motor out, striped it down (and found no signs of seizing e.g no marks on the crank) so proceeded to do a full standard rebuild so new bears for both crank and conrods, crank measured and polished, new piston rings, bored honed out, etc and the car now runs and has passed rego and I am now just faced with the fine tuning which is where my questions lay. I am having trouble getting it to idle lower then 1000 rpm and my afm sounds like a vacuum cleaner it is sucking that much with or without the filter (which was only to see if the filter was dirty) I have read a few forums and done a few things from them such as cleaning the aac valve checked all vacuum lines by spraying carby cleaner on them but with no difference and at the moment my idle screw is all the way in and 1000 is the best I can get, it does idle hunt a little when coming to an intersection or stopping, I have the R33 s1 with the ecu that has the screw in the back but when I turn it there is no noticeable difference in idle except when It get to certain points which im guessing is some sort of marker where the idle increases until it gets off the marker and it never seems to stop turning like there is no end to the screw.

Hey Guys, So I am nearly finished rebuilding my Rb25det I just have a couple of issues Im hoping to sort out before I start driving around. So I have a Dark blue plug on the intake side that I just can't figure out where it goes? I'm also having issues with it idling it seems to be idling fairly high around 1200 rpm and I have the consult cable hooked to my laptop and the cas sensor is reading zero on idle but around 20 when revved, I have read somewhere that it could be I just need to reset the Ecu by removing the positive from the battery. any help would be appreciated. I have attached and image of the plug.

Hi I am chasing 2 of these squirters, any chance you still have any of these for sale? Thanks Damien

Hey Guys, So just thought I would let you know where I am at with it. I have gone through and checked the CAS which is all good, timing belt is still spot on, checked the fuel pump by removing the pipe after the fuel filter and turning it to on and plenty of fuel coming through, so I did all this while waiting for my ecutalk cable to arrive and when it did I plugged in and it came up with error code 21 - Ignition error so after this I continued to pulling all my spark plugs and they were all white on the tips which would mean that they had fouled so I bought a new set of spark plugs and have replaced them all and as I reassembled it I checked that all my coilpacks were all good replaced the cover and at this point I still had the car in the on position from when I was using my laptop and didnt think twice to switch it off but as I was replacing the ignitor module I plugged it all in and sat it on the cover so I could grab the bolts and socket I picked it and found that it was burning hot. So this has lead me to believe that this module is fried and is the cause of my issues so I have bought a replacement and just waiting for it to arrive so I did some research as to why this mights have happened and found that it can happen if the earth is not earthed properly so I checked my earth and found that I have somehow placed it under the rocker cover screw at the back so I have moved it to under the last bolt at the back that holds the plate for the coilpacks. Is this what caused my issues or is it still only part of the issue? Thoughts? Thanks

Sorry I should have said but the oil pump was just a general question I have oil pressure and what not I just wanted to find out how commonly it happens.

So it might just take alittle longer for the rings to seat and at this point better of finding the problem and starting there? I also read somewhere that sometimes after a rebuild that the oil pump can fail mostly in the older cars is that a possiblity here or are the RB25DET oil pumps pretty good?

So in having let it idle for so long there may be the chance that I have done something that may need me to basically rebuild it again? Coz if I have to rebuild it again I am thinking I will take it off the road and do a complete rebuild with forged internals but I would rather have it back on the road as I would have to buy another car in the mean time which is why I only used OEM Replacement parts to do this rebuild.

I only idle it for so long because I needed to refit my front bar which has LED indicators that I had to rewire but otherwise I would have taken it straight out for a drive. There is a very slight leak at the back of the bell housing but not enough to cause any issue in that short of a time and I slightly overfilled the oil before it sat and idled but checked the oil again before going but when It stopped I checked the oil and it only just had a drop on the dip stick so I topped it up and tried to start it again with no success. I will definitely go through and check all those and fix the slight oil. Is there anything else I should be looking for having just rebuilt it? everything sounded like it was running well and it idled perfectly before going out.

Hey guys First time posting but I have just finished rebuilding my rb25det with new stock piston rings, oem head gasket and had the head pressure tested and shaved. This engine is pretty much stock besides a fmc, regapped spark plugs and a boost controller set at 10psi. Started the car and let it idol for about half an hr and everything seem to be going great so I decided to take it for a easy run through town and just out of town to make sure everything was going well which it was until I came back into town and pulled up at a round about and it started to sound like it was missing and then just stopped and now it still trys to turn over but no ignition. It sounds like it has no fuel but it has a full tank. Could it be that something has gone wrong and ecu has a error that is preventing it from starting. Any and all advice accepted.

Hey Just wondering If it is still up for sale..... Thanks