Bushy

Yeah I don't know mate, I'm no brake expert I was just making the point that I don't think it's the pads based on my experiences with them/what you said. Throw those spare pads at it and adjust master rod and test. Those are the only easy options bar testing a different BM.

It's up to you. Those pads are rated to 780 deg. so it's likely you would burn or boil brake fluid, even if new, before you cook the pads.

If you can post some photos of the pads someone might be able to tell you if they're cooked. But also when you overheated the brakes it could have been that you burnt the fluid, did you bleed them in between sessions and check the colour? This doesn't explain why you've got the stiff pedal all the time but just making the point that it may still not be the pads. However if you've got a spare set of pads you may as well try them.

Go with the rubber mount. Pillowball is effectively solid mounting so not going to provide much vibration insulation to the body. Also pillowball is just another part to wear out.

Doubt it's the pads. I have the same on my 32, they were used for a few months then sat for 2 years and still work fine (have been used at track a number of times since). Also they don't require much heat in them to work to their full potential either, I have never noticed any difference between first and last hot lap. On a side note, I have noticed they aren't a very 'progressive' pad, they bite reasonably hard with little pedal effort. As others suggested I'd look elsewhere. Good luck with it, interested to know the outcome.

Cheers lads. Hopefully just drive it! Got a few small things I need to sort out and a few plans for down the track. Fingers crossed no more mechanical issues for a while.

I didn't realise you've got the brass fitting on the compressor housing, in that case you don't need a vac line from the inlet manifold as well. I've got no idea now that dual stage manual boost controller works so not sure if it's setup properly. I just have a single stage boost T that is inline between the inlet manifold and actuator (or compressor housing in your case). Someone else will have to chip in here.

Cheers fellas, unfortunately it will never be finished, still got so many things I want to do haha. It passed roadworthy today, one step closer

I spied a certain couple of SAU Tassie members have entered the Sports GT support race at Phillip Island in November! Good luck boys

I got a PVC plumbing cap from Mitre 10 and drilled a hole in the end for a tyre valve, then used a 2.75-2.5" silicon reducer to attach it to the cooler piping. Make sure you clamp it properly so it doesn't fly off when you pressurise it, 10-20 psi is plenty. It was then pretty easy to hear/feel any leaks, can also use soapy water. I found that even with all boost leaks fixed pressure would still drop slowly, I suspect it was getting past rings, so don't spend hours looking for leaks if yours does the same, any boost leaks in intake will be pretty obvious.

That sucks mate, I also have vision impairment in one eye due to injury so I know it's not fun, luckily as humans we're able to adapt quite well so I'm sure you'll find it won't hinder you much at all in the future. Good luck with it all!

Not sure what the vac nipple on the throttle body is for, mines blocked off though. Should have vac lines for fuel reg, standard boost gauge, actuator, BOV, AAC, PCV and brake booster from memory. I'd just run a single stage boost T, and get rid of that hose with a screw in it as it will leak. Also good idea to pressure test the intake as you will probably find boost leaks you would not otherwise know about, may as well sort it all out now.

Good progress mate. The hoses you're talking about on the throttle body sound like the coolant lines, if they're rusted up just clamp them in a vice and pull them out, they're not needed. I think the idea was to keep the throttle body warm in cold climates to prevent the butterfly jamming. Just make sure you blank off the hoses. If you feel like tidying things up a little more you could extend the injector plugs and run the loom under the manifold. And turn the fuel reg around and poke the return line up between the runners.

I've been working on the car the last couple of nights after study. Got it all back together and initial signs are good. I pressure tested the intake and the new fuel rail has fixed the boost leak around the injectors. Aftermarket oil warning light works well, I can see why they say most engine wear occurs at start up, took a good 5-10 seconds to get oil pressure after sitting for the last few months So far no coolant leaks but time will tell. The only issue was the aftermarket water temp gauge wasn't working, I've had intermittent issues with it so the standard one will have to do for now. Only thing left to do is bleed brakes and it's ready for rego. Going to hold off till after exams though.

Haha, all I'll say is 16x9 +20 Cheers mate!

Thanks mate! Cheers for taking the time

Pity it's all happening coming up to exams, might just have to be patient and wait a bit longer. I've decided on wheels, currently organising through Jesse Streeter, went for something completely different in the end. Might wait till they get here and let pics do the talking

Much excitement today! Got the call from the engineer to say he has been sent the mod plate. Just waiting on a few bits to arrive before I can put it back together then it's good to go!

Fark yeah nice work, loom looks very tidy, wiring scares me so I paid someone to do mine ha

Thanks mate! And thanks again for helping me out Here's a pic of James' RX7 for any rotor fans

Leaning towards some SSR LM9s now, similar style to MS1s but without the staggered lip and a fair bit cheaper. I had a sick weekend crewing for my mate James again in his RX7 in Sports GT at Symmonds Plains, few minor issues that need ironing out as you'd expect with a new car that held him back a bit but we're both learning heaps and he's gaining confidence.

I had a bit of a look through that thread a while ago so I've got a rough idea what will work, might have to have another browse though. I do like XD9s but a few of my mates have got them and I want something different ha. Funny you mention jdmconcept, I stumbled across it the other day and they seem to have pretty good prices. They currently have some SSR MS1s for sale in almost the perfect size/offset which make me drool, but they are farken expensive!

Time for another small update. No news on the mod plate, I spoke to the engineer the other day and he said he had, had a few strong words with Transport Tas recently about how slow they are haha. It can't be much longer, already been 2 months! When I was trying to fix the wiring short, after blowing about 20 fuses I thought a manual reset, fuse style, circuit breaker would have been handy, I found that Narva sell them and got hold of a few off good old eBay. As I think I've mentioned I want to eventually return the centre console to the standard look, which has had me thinking about where to put the gauges. I've reached a decision that they need to go in the glove box, but obviously that doesn't allow me to keep an eye on them while driving. So, I'll rely on the standard water temp gauge while driving (for now) and have fitted an oil pressure warning light. This included an oil pressure sender/switch and light from a local auto parts store, and Proflow 1/8 BSP + NPT (for the Saas sender) T-piece. Whilst I was fitting the oil pressure switch, I found a couple of coolant leaks, of course they were under the inlet manifold in impossible to reach places. One was an obvious split hose going to the standard oil cooler, the other I couldn't pin point. So off came the inlet manifold (again) to replace all the old hoses, tighten hose clamps and re-seal anything that used Grey Max sealant (water pipes, thermostat housing etc.). I had to order a new genuine rubber hose to the oil cooler as it is a stupid shape, and figured it would be a good idea to replace the inlet manifold gasket with a genuine one at the same time. Both ordered from Amayama for half the price Nissan Australia wanted, the trade off is longer delivery time. At some point the new genuine fuel rail turned up, so I changed over the injectors etc. Looks nice and shiny, can't wait to fit it all back up! Replaced the stupid Philips head bolts with stainless Allen key head bolts. I've been thinking about new wheels, I like the steelies I bought, but they're not quite what I was expecting so I've advertised them for sale. Now I'm trying to make my mind up on some 18" Work wheels. I'll be going with white wheels regardless and its a choice between S1R, VS XX, M1 3P and XT7s at the moment. Leaning towards XT7s simply because they are a lot cheaper but keen to hear other opinions! Especially if you can help with sizes/offsets that work on GTST with a nice amount of dish (obviously not including the XT7s).

Actually one probably goes to the intake pipe not the manifold (don't want the canister pressurized under boost), I can't quite remember. Either way get rid of it

The first pic looks like some kind of boost controller (could be wrong though). Those lines are for the carbon canister (the black cylinder thing) one goes to the inlet manifold and one to the fuel tank breather, its for emissions so just get rid of it if its going to be a track car