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Awesome, thanks for that. Ok no worries at all

Very nice, quality parts as always! Have you got a link to that oil cooler and filter relocation kit? Also I've got a good condition heater core for sale, PM me if you want it.

Sent you a PM mate

Oops ignore the bit about the injectors, I was a few beers down and for some reason thought you said they were purple ha

Your local Nissan spare parts is your safest option. If you have a VIN I can get you the part number. PM me.

Nice one! Sounds like you would have a pretty competitive car for Sports GT It's something I'd love to do one day

How'd you go Damo? Crack the 1minute? I can't remember if it was raining or not ha

Could be Deatschwerks injectors, they make a 750cc side feed with purple cap, either way it doesn't really matter ha. On the battery, I put mine on passenger side simply so fuel pump wiring wouldn't get in the way. It means the positive cable will need to be sightly longer, but that can be neatly cable tied to the rear strut brace.

As the title says, unknown condition as I got them second hand with a fuel rail. Can get them flow tested for a serious buyer. One needs lower o-ring replaced and one has a crack in plastic above the upper o-ring (as pictured out of bag, shouldn't affect sealing). $50 posted for all

Thanks mate! I've thought about doing the cam covers but can't really be bothered haha. I might give them a bit of a polish one day and repaint the coilpack cover, I think I prefer the standard look

Yeah I already suspected that it was a self made problem, just completely forgot I had taken the centre console out

Copied from the other thread, but with pics I found it! Armed with some new found motivation and a few stiff drinks I got stuck into it tonight. I pulled out the rear seat and found the plug going to the tail lights etc. and disconnected it. I found the same red wire with blue trace at the plug and tested continuity to ground going to the tail lights, there was no continuity so I knew that part of the loom was OK. Then I removed the two big terminal plugs under the dash near the drivers feet.Then I tested continuity to ground at the other side of the plug (at rear of vehicle) and had continuity, so I knew the short was between the main plug under the dash and plug at the rear. Then it was just a case of stripping the loom from the back to the front and following that wire. I found that the wire split just under the drivers seat and went across to a couple of plugs next to the handbrake and that is when I remembered I had removed the centre console and immediately knew that's where the short would be. Sure enough I found that I had put a screw through one of them when reinstalling the centre console haha. Where the wire branched off under the drivers seat. The culprit! I'm so stoked to have found the problem without having to take the car to an auto electrician. This is why I love working on this car, it's so satisfying when you put in the effort and get the results!

I found it! Armed with some new found motivation and a few stiff drinks I got stuck into it tonight. I pulled out the rear seat and found the plug going to the tail lights etc. and disconnected it. I found the same red wire with blue trace at the plug and tested continuity to ground going to the tail lights, there was no continuity so I knew that part of the loom was OK. Then I removed the two big terminal plugs under the dash near the drivers feet.Then I tested continuity to ground at the other side of the plug (at rear of vehicle) and had continuity, so I knew the short was between the main plug under the dash and plug at the rear. Then it was just a case of stripping the loom from the back to the front and following that wire. I found that the wire split just under the drivers seat and went across to a couple of plugs next to the handbrake and that is when I remembered I had removed the centre console and immediately knew that's where the short would be. Sure enough I found that I had put a screw through one of them when reinstalling the centre console haha. Anyway, I thought I had better update the thread as I hate it when I read troubleshooting threads with no resolution. Thanks to those that helped!

Got to be careful with split dumps. Cheap ones may not match the rear housing and wastegate port causing boost spike. Had this problem with a JJR split dump on standard RB25 turbo, not worth the hassle, just get a bellmouth dump.

Again no major progress, still waiting on the mod plate But it's given me a bit of time to sort out a few things which is good. I pressure tested the intercooler piping/intake and found some embarrassingly large boost leaks (so that explains the stalling when warm). I fixed most of them although there are still some very small leaks that are giving me grief and I can't be bothered with at the moment. I found... Throttle body vac hose nipple not blanked off (lol) Vac hose too big going to boost T AAC o-ring buggered AAC gasket Throttle body silicon joiner clamp BOV clamp Pin holes in manifold (fixed with JB weld ) This is my home made bung I was missing the fuel rail spacers so I bought new ones from Nissan and bought lower insulators at the same time. Also bought genuine AAC gasket and passenger front seatbelt buckle so I can put the standard seatbelt back in (currently have an R33 seatbelt which looks different). I love new OEM parts! Unfortunately me installing the fuel rail without the spacers had bent the tabs, so now with the spacers installed the injectors don't seal properly. I've decided not to cheap out this time and have bought a brand new standard fuel rail via Amayama (in the post). The new plastic centre console trim and centre console 'pocket' (no photo) turned up! I fitted the glove box and moved the ECU slightly so I could fit the kit panel I fitted some Quik-Latch fittings to the front bar for easy removal. This is a great product but not cheap! Then I found the tail light/dash light fuse keeps blowing when I turn the lights on. Its not the switch itself, most likely a short to ground which means stripping the loom, I'm trying to sum up the motivation to get it done as I've already spent countless hours searching for damaged wires. I've created another thread for the issue but there's probably not much else that anyone can help me with http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/442131-testing-r32-headlight-switch/ Soo this is what it looks like now, and it will get worse Cheers for reading!

Looks good mate. They look like Nismo injectors, prettyhuh sure standards are purple. I bought a R32 with rb25 from Melbourne a while ago that I think was done by Nismo (or Nispro?) Performance and it didn't have a mod plate. Vic roads had the rb25 engine number listed, so they either didn't know any better or didn't care

Yeah that's ok mate, I wasn't really expecting you to do any more you've already helped as much as possible without actually coming to Tassie haha, I was kind of just thinking out loud

Looking at the schematic 42 is an earth, so I guess that means the fault is somewhere along 41. I'm struggling to read/understand the schematic so it looks like I'm just going to have to try and manually trace the wire.

Yeah good luck mate, its been a great story so far! Having a goal is the best form of motivation

Ok I got ya now. 40 is a constant 12v feed, and 41 and 42 both have continuity to earth with everything disconnected. It started after I reinstalled the climate control module and repositioned my gauges, I also moved the ECU slightly to fit the kick panel. I didn't change any wiring and have had a good look for damaged wires in the areas I was working but haven't found anything yet. The fuse still blows with the climate control and gauges disconnected.

Thanks that has helped a lot! I'm pretty sure the circuit diagram you posted is the right one. Just a couple of questions... Did you mean to say there SHOULD be continuity. When you turn the switch on that supplies power between those points so wouldn't that mean you would have continuity between those points? Or am I not thinking about how the switch works, correctly? And could you elaborate on this a bit more? Thanks again, Michael

Thanks for the reply. In an R32 the park light/low beam switch is separate to the indicator/high beam stalk. I did remove the tail light plugs and parkers, as well as the dash cluster and number plate lights (not 100% sure if on same fuse or not) and it still blows the fuse. I'll have a look in the service manual for the pin out, thanks. I'm thinking it is a short to ground, as I have continuity between the switched side of the plug (not sure if this is right term, i.e. the pin that is powered up when the switch is turned on) and ground (somewhere on the body). Assuming I have removed everything that uses this fuse, this should indicate a short to ground, correct? Or am I missing something? I have removed everything bar the actual dash and had a really good look and haven't yet found any damaged wires, I just want to completely eliminate the switch being a problem before spending more time tracing wires. Cheers, Michael

Hi, Just wondering if anyone would be so kind as to check my method for testing the rotary headlight switch in an R32 GTST. What I've done so far... Its a 7 pin connector, I've tested continuity between the top and bottom row of pins in pairs (the 7th pin is a common earth?) There are three positions for the switch and I can visually see three contacts, hence my method for testing in pairs. Switch in off position - there is no continuity between any top/bottom pair Parkers on - there is continuity between the 2nd pair of pins Low beams on - there is continuity between all pairs of pins Does this mean the switch is fine? I've used the search function and cannot find a post which explains how to test the switch, everyone just says to replace it. The problem I'm having is the tail light/dash light fuse fuse blows when the light switch is turned to parkers on. Cheers, Michael

Hook up pressure tester after turbo, not before.