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89 GTS-4

SAU SA Club Member
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Everything posted by 89 GTS-4

  1. Located in Adelaide *Aftermarket Garrett GT2871R turbo, near new *Nistune ecu installed and tuned less than 1500kms ago, 189rwkw @ 14psi *Turbosmart Eboost street boost controller, installed less than 1500kms ago, running 14psi on high boost setting, motor has never been boosted prior to installation *Near new heavy duty clutch *Trust front mount intercooler *Turbo back Jasma Exhaust *Starcorp Impul 18x8.5" with near new tyres *Brand new KYB front shocks *King springs all round *Factory 4 Piston front brake calipers *Isotta wheel *New speakers all round *Pager alarm system *LED rear lights *New battery less than 1500kms old *Fresh 3 months rego Rare GTS4 M-Spec all wheel drive I am the second owner in Australia, purchased vehicle from my brother in law who imported it 8 years ago. Clean car with a full history, looks nice and stock, never been defected in its life Not in a rush to sell, only selling due to getting a company car, sad to let it go. Runs very healthy, all recent work carried out by Boostworx. Good for 230-40 ish with some injectors and Z32 AFM Please no time wasters, serious offers will be considered. $9,000.00 or swap for a Stag + cash either way if need be (for the Wife) 0450 906 438
  2. Spotted Dohmar two days in a row at the same time of 12:30 ish heading along Hampstead Rd
  3. Seriously mate take some of these "older" peoples advice, (including myself) we have been there done that, I wrote off my rx7 and still payed it off for the next 3 years becuase my insurance was void. It was so bloody painful but I had to do it. I could have repaired it and been in more debt but I just had to cut my losses and start again. I know the attachement you have to your car, but seriously sounds like an image thing to me. Trust me you will get over it and one day get another car you'll fall in love with. And hopefully when you do you will be able to afford it as well. Sell your car dude
  4. Bayside Blue 34 GTR Vspec on my way to work this morning, near the Parafield Airport, plates BNR34, Nismo wheels, I reckon he has a black 32 GTR as well BNR32 plates, always parked at the home maker center, tuff cars
  5. Ive worked in dealerships a lot of my career, the paint protection is an absolute scam, they make more on the PP than the car itself, when I was doing it (a long time ago I might add) I took a lot of pride in it so if it needed clay barring I just did it. I pre delivered Audis and Jags and stuff so it was kinda important
  6. Mate I had trouble finding one in SA let alone Tas, good luck with it
  7. Today is a good day for spotting..... Nice tuff black 33 with gold works me thinks on Grand Junction at Fosters Rd intersection, nice white 34 tuning on to Grand Junction from Main North, maroon 33 at lights at Gepps Cross intersection heading to the beach, tuff Black 34 parked out the front of Lumo gym
  8. I hear you mate, I used to PD cars for a living and would clay block prior to paint protection if I had too, I guess I just expect dealers to do the same, but reality is you are right and majority of the time it doesnt get done. Every brands importation process is different and the cars are subject to different conditions prior to delivery. High turnover vehicles are obviously better as they dont sit around so long.
  9. If its not done at pre delivery prior to the consumer receiving it, not cool. Consumer should never have to do it themselves
  10. If you have to clay bar a brand new car, your dealer should be shot. But good thing to have around for future reference.
  11. Spotted gun metal grey 33 with some 5 spoke chrome wheels at lights on Mcintyre road at around 12:30 heading towards Parafield, tidy looking.
  12. Hi Mate, If you can only access off the shelf type products and dont mind spending a little bit ($50-$80 from memory) try Zymol Creame which you can apply by hand. Its pretty awesome stuff. I used to get it from Autobarn when I worked there. Grab some microfibre cloths for removing the wax after applying. And also try washing with a non caustic detergent so as not to remove the wax when washing. You should only have to repeat wax every few months and your paint should stay in great condition. Did you get a deisel Titanium? I recently attended a Ford Motor company drive day through work and drove the diesel, nice car.
  13. Geez mitch I reckon you take your job way too seriously, seeing as tho you took the time out to hi-jack my thread and post photos of your work, good on you. I cant even be bothered replying to all the crap you just wrote, get out of the thread mate and go polish a car or something....
  14. Really all depends on the type of paint mate, however I follow the exact same steps you alrealy mentioned on most 2pak paints. Step 1 with darker colours I generally cut with a heavy foam pad and either one of my favourite compounds like Farecla or an Autosmart one. I get these from a wholesaler that used to supply my detailing shop years ago. Then step 2 wash all compond off. Step 3 i use a lighter foam pad with a minimul cut and high wax content, and normally depending on the result finish buff with an even lighter pad. Then step 4 wash again. Step five finish wax (as you would say) all by hand Lighter colours much the same but I love using a 3M wool pad for the initial buff with a kinda waxy autosmart polish, the wool pad does all the cutting so you can use a light polish/wax and just about not need a foam pad at all, then obviously finish off after a wash by hand. I love the 3M screw on type pad, they are awesome, but kinda dangerous if you dont know what your doing Some paints tho mate like Euro cars, Audi, Jag etc have very soft flat colours, no mettalic in it. Very diffiucult to machine polish, near impossible to not create swirls with a machine which creates more work by hand afterwards. I detailed for a company called Solitaire over here in Adelaide which is an Audi, Jag , Lambo, Bentley, Volkswagon, and Skoda dealer, some of the toughest paint I've had to work with. They get all salt spray over them from sitting on the docks and I was having to machine polish brand new vehicles straight off the boat! Pain in the ass
  15. Jonno i merely suggested sanding the clearcoat blend line only to try and smooth it off then machine polishing it, to the previous author. Mitch is thinking im talking about sanding a whole car. Helps if he was to read the entire post before flaming lol. But whatever let him flame if he likes. As for finishing by hand yes you are right in saying a wax is great for sealing off. On darker cars that i have machine polished, after the wash stage i like to hand polish/seal with a product which is high wax with a very minimul amount of cutter in it, like one of my favourites Super Resin "Polish". It helps with any minor swirl marks from machine polishing .
  16. 1200 on acrylics and on poorly applied clear coat on lighter 2pak colours followed by a compound by an experienced detailer is not a problem. I have done it many times before. I would never use 1200 on darker colours or paint in good condition. I only suggested 1200 due to the previous authors comments about poor paintwork being applied And for the record you can achieve some very good results by hand polishing with the right condition paint work. Especially after heavy cut, fine buff then wash polish/compound off and finish with a hand polish. I have done it so many times as my job for a living over a good period of time. I hope your not implying that I am in-experienced....
  17. Lol jonno i hope that fridge has beer in it for all the tim e you spend out in there! I thought i was bad...
  18. Wow. No offence to anyone personally but i seriously think people way overstock there detailing supplies with so many unnecessary products! I have kept my wheels clean over the years by simply washing rinsing and wiping dry every time i wash the car. And the occasional autosol dish polish on bare metal wheels i have owned.
  19. Wow. No offence to anyone personally but i seriously think people way overstock there detailing supplies with so many unnecessary products! Ive kept my wheels crystal for years by simply washing rinsing an wiping dry every time i wash the car. And the occasional autosol dish polish on bare metal wheels i have owned
  20. Silicone spray will only attract dirt/road grime even more. I wouldnt bother putting anything on them just keep them clean regularly instead of backing on the grime by leaving them too long
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