NIZ30

What most people are talking about is "clipping".... This is when you are trying to turn the amp up too high and it can't cleanly produce the signal to give to the speakers. It is this bad signal that destroys speakers (especially tweeters) and not too much power to the speaker (in this case anyway). So this is how a 4x45w amp kills 300w speakers, not becasue it overpowers the speaker. If you want your music louder you can do this with these speakers, just buy an amp. JL have a long and prestigous history, mainly through home, and studio reference speakers. I think they are relatively new to car audio (2 years or so). But with their history of manufacturing speakers there quality should be pretty good.

I got all the things people are saying : - Trust TD06-20G Turbo Trust FMIC Trust custom exhaust manifold (high mount turbo) Trust Wastegate Injectors (i think?) Fuel pump The car runs fine at 1.5 bar there is no problem with that. But can the engine withstand this boost? Saying this, I am a bit disappionted with my 239hp considering the turbo I have. I need to sort out the fuel problem and think an Apexi S-AFC might be in order.

Have seen the gauge in action. The only reason I am getting it is cause I have lost my ashtray and am filling the gap up with two gauges. So the wow factor is about all i am using this for.

How much boost can an internally standard RB20 take. I am talking reliable boost, not how much before it goes bang. The reason I ask is: I was told when I bought the car that this block is extremely tough, so can handle the occasional high boosting. So, I have been running mine at 1.5 bar for nearly two years now. Just cause it can boost this high doesn't mean it reaches this every gear change. Far from it. I may actually only hit this boost once a month, but it is there when I want it. Today I went to get my car dynoed. Came back $270 poorer and missing an extra 20 rwhp that I used to have and 0.3 bar of boost. He says I will blow a piston if I run it at this boost, but I haven't (yet). There is no detonation problems at 1.5 bar, and the fuelling is all ok. Thoughts peoples? So will my car die tomorrow if I wind the boost back up?

What a coincidence.... Just got home from there just now. They seemed pretty good. Although I effectively paid $270 for some new spark plugs and a couple power runs. My car was running fine (as far as it can with stock ecu) so nothing needed to be done to it. Anyway my results were 239.4rwhp at 1.5 bar. John turned this down to a safer 1.2 bar with 220rwhp the result. He has a real nice RB26DETT engined 280Z.

Have decided against the AVCR (for now). But thanks for the help With the a/f ratio meter, where exactly should i hook this up to the O2 sensor? Is this the airflow meter behind the air filter? If not, where can I find this in the engine bay? I also bought an Autometer quik-lite shift light. Not sure where to connect the wire for the tacho feed. Any help?

I went from no-cat to a high-flow cat. There was no difference. (except no more flames ) But my wastegate vents to the atmosphere so I can't say if it made a difference on full boost.

Now tha we have the track and drag tables. How a bout a horsepower one, similar to these. Proven power of course. Split it up into engine catorgories : RB20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE, RB25DET, RB26DETT(and above ie 2.6-3.0 litres). Also a 4 & 8 cylinder class for those not as lucky as some. Not sure if this thought is original, probably not.

:wavey: Pick Me! Pick Me!

Just about to receive an Apexi AVC-R. Are these hard to install yourself? Anyone had any experince with these? I currently have a bleed valve, does this get replaced? Next question...Do these work well? I run 1.5 bar boost atm. What I am mostly wanting from the AVC-R is to run 1 bar for 1st and 2nd gears. Does it do this well? Last question(s)...I am also getting autometer a/f ratio gauge, oil pressure (electronic) gauge and shift light. Any hints or tips people can give me on the instalation of these?

My left (passenger side) headlight is sometimes dimmer than the right. There might be some bad wiring in there or something. Whether our problems are related i'm not sure. What I am sure of is that i haven't helped in any way. /notches up one more post to the tally/

and again... these had to be reduced

My 32

butter-car?

Shops??? Ares Speed have some of the nicest looking cars in Australia (my opinion). They do excellent body kits and accesories. And you can spend an entire day walking around their shop without being served.... :thumbdwn: If you're lucky enough to get served, you will have the pleasure of paying through the roof for what ever it is you bought. Pity...they do have some damn nice cars there. Nearly worth dropping in just to have a look at the cars at the front. But don't expect to walk out of the shop with much unless you're willing to hand over your keys and so, "go the whole hog."

I agree...It's not as much about the driving somewhere (nowhere). It is the social side of things. If you can sit long enough without police attention it is much better then aimlessly driving from one location to the next. I like to cruise to meet like minded people.

The reversion sound comes back out through the air filter. A standard air filter box is more quiet than a pod filter. So it apears it is not happening, when it is, you just can't hear it happening.

By directional he means when you listen to bass notes, you can't exactly define where the sound is coming from (front, back, left or right). As opposed to higher frequencies (treble) you can clearly tell from what speaker the sound comes from. A sub will generally sound loudest at the back of your boot (closer to the back seat) facing the back of the car. Called rear loading.

I'm a definate. Well about as definate as can be without a date set. Is this a skylines only type of thing? If not I can spread the word through some other avenues.

Update?? Any news yet?

I have had mine to 250ish (wanted to keep eyes on road). I got 260kph Impul speedo. Back seat passenger told me the speed. Was at red line in 5th. It ran out of gearing to go any faster ie. it accelerates from 100-150 at the same rate as 200-250 (close enough anyway). My car is not standard.

oops...the picture...that right. :looney:

Here is a picture before the cars untimely death. Picture quality isn't crash hot, it was dark when I took the picture. There are some things that are not replaceable...material objects are. As Nizman said, he could have owed boxhead's mum more than some money for insurance

I got King super lows (i think) on 18" rims on my R32. As far as ride goes these are better then my previous standard height GABs. On hard turns and bumps there is a bit of scrubbing problem (boxhead witnessed this on Mad Mountain). But in gerneral driving around town they couldn't be any better.

In QLD (not sure about other places) you can only get a slimline plate for the front, the rear has to be standard. Or what they cal "yankee style". This plate is taller and not as wide as normal aussie plates, and fits in the space at the back perfectly. But the front slimline is usually longer than the space allocated. What I did on my Bomex bar was cut out some hard plastic (think it was the devider from a wheely bin) to fit in the space and screwed the plate on through the plastic. Bit dodgy, but is never to be seen again and cost nothing.