Slattery Gts-t

Today i noticed my stag was blowing smoke under full throttle, it use to blow smoke after heavy deceleration but it stopped that and changed to blowing smoke under heavy acceleration Anyway while driving today i pulled over to take a phone call and when i took off it started blowing heaps and heaps of smoke so i pulled over and turned it off when the smoke cleared i started it up again and it immediately started pouring smoke from the exhaust. I got the car towed home and took the dump pipe off and there is lots of oil at the back of the turbo and in the exhaust so this tells me the turbo has s**t itself correct? Anyone got a 33 or 34 turbo laying around they want to sell?

No one has anything to input ?

Update, I realised when i checked the g sensor under the console for power i left it unplugged so after plugging that back in and bridging out the relay again i only get error code 32 (E-TS solenoid and circuit), After going over the wiring diagram it shows the relay should get its earth from the attesa ecu but its not so im starting to lean towards the attesa ecu has give up. If you look at this wiring diagram it shows pins 2 and 5 on the ETS actuator relay as having ign +12v but with the attesa ecu plugged in these pins are earthed out with it unplugged the pins have power as they should (i assume this relay is the 4WD relay in the fuse box under the bonnet?) Any input would be great!

My Stagea has had this problem for a while now, it wont shift into 4th/overdrive, the revs drop when in "D" when not on the accelerator but any acceleration and its in 3rd It acts normal with overdrive off (Engine Brakes) but just wont grab 4th when i switch overdrive on I ran diagnostics on the gearbox and it come back with no faults iv no idea where to go from here?

My car was off the road for 3 months with a blown head gasket and iv finally got it back together and going again but now my ABS and 4WD light on the dash is constantly on Iv found that the 4WD relay under the bonnet isnt getting its +12v switch so i ran a wire from the battery to the power out pin where the relay plugs in and the abs unit seemed to spring to life and the ATTESA ecu finally started showing me some error codes (21,61,62). i Started the car and the abs light come on after a few seconds then a few seconds after that the 4wd light come on again. So obviously im not getting any power to the ATTESA ecu or ABS unit all because im not getting this IGN +12v switch to the relay, Also the the +12v that feeds the relay is only getting 11.5v when the battery is showing 12.7v While the car was sitting i accidently left an interior light on completely draining the battery so i replaced it with a blue top optima Im out of ideas as iv tripple checked every fuse and cant find a dud ? a wiring diagram would be really handy

My car was off the road for 3 months with a blown head gasket and iv finally got it back together and going again but now my ABS and 4WD light on the dash is constantly on Iv found that the 4WD relay under the bonnet isnt getting its +12v switch so i ran a wire from the battery to the power out pin where the relay plugs in and the abs unit seemed to spring to life and the ATTESA ecu finally started showing me some error codes (21,61,62). i Started the car and the abs light come on after a few seconds then a few seconds after that the 4wd light come on again. So obviously im not getting any power to the ATTESA ecu or ABS unit all because im not getting this IGN +12v switch to the relay, Also the the +12v that feeds the relay is only getting 11.5v when the battery is showing 12.7v While the car was sitting i accidently left an interior light on completely draining the battery so i replaced it with a blue top optima Im out of ideas as iv tripple checked every fuse and cant find a dud ? a wiring diagram would be really handy

Sorry didnt realise the last post wasnt the original poster ninety3 the last paragraph was directed to you

Did you get the M6 bolt out? dont worry about the spring inside the inlet cam gear, just undo the four screws and the plate and spring will come out then you have access to the main nut or bolt that holds the cam gear on I too felt uneasy about letting that spring go but when you remove it it will all become clear I nearly stripped a head stud too but if your in doubt get a brand new alen key and cut it down and hit it into the stud gently with a hammer to make sure its in all the way then put your 10mm socket over it with your breaker bar (hope your not using a rattle gun for these studs)

Iv never played with electronic boost controllers or twin turbo set ups so im sorry i cant help you with that, Hopefully someone else can post up something to help you out!

Hey mate, Im pretty sure stock boost on a R32 GTR is around 10psi but certainly not 15psi I think he might be talking about the boost restrictor which is a little piece of pipe that is inside the vacuum line that runs from a T piece in the line to the wastegate, The line bleeds a bit of air back into the intake and has a restrictor inside of it, if you remove it it lets it bleed a bit more air and increases boost If you have a full free flowing exhaust and a pod then removing it may just as well increase it to 15PSI and even cause a small spike but id put my money on the spike being caused by the boost controller not being set up properly Anyone please correct me if i am wrong as iv only had experience with RB25'S

Thanks for all your replys! seems like the right turbo for my goals But, the bank which first up approved my loan has now decided to decline at this point in time so this plan has now been set back for a few months until i get settled into my new job, Ill be still going ahead with it just not as soon as id hope. To add to it last night i changed the dying factory turbo for my highflowed turbo which i had sitting around (was trying to keep it stock until i had the engine managment side of things sorted) and about half an hour ago i went for a drive, boosted to 10psi and clunk the exhaust wheel went out through the exhaust!

Iv actually got a bit of a head start as far as handling is concerned the car has Tein coilovers all round and front and rear strut braces, also 265's on the rear to help with traction, but all this doesnt help if i cant handle it so that will be my key focus So with a good tune at the 250rwkw mark the engine should potentially last years? providing i dont flog the guts out of it all the time

SilverS2 what ecu are you using?

Its a GTX iv read that they spool a little bit earlier than a GT, and that they make more power at high psi (22+ PSI) compared to the GT

Yeah true! I do have a blown engine in my shed that i plan to slowly build up so i wanted to buy a turbo that can give me the power im chasing now and then more when its built

Ok as the title states im upgrading my turbo as my factory one is giving up, before i go and spend 6k id like your opinions Now ill start with the cars current mods: Full 3" exhaust (gutted cat), Front Mount Intercooler, Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, K&N Pod, Yellow Jackets coil packs, Brand New Exedy Heavy duty clutch Im Looking at the GTX3076R turbo kit from Kudos? it will be street driven and i want to get into doing a bit of track work, I know it will be a bit laggy for the street but i can live with that, i want to pick a turbo that i can use after i get the bottom end forged and want more power. At the moment until i get it forged and upgrade my clutch im chasing around 250rwkw Along with the turbo i also plan on getting a top feed fuel rail kit with 650cc injectors and a Haltech platinum pro ecu So what are your thoughts? have i missed anything?

To all those who may care, The symptoms i explained in my first post were all caused by having no spigot bush, i now have one installed and all is good back to the way it should be no more crunching or horrible noises

Well, after a little more research/searching iv narrowed it down to being the fact that i havnt put a manual spigot bush in Iv done just over 1000kms without one in i hope the input shaft bearing is still ok

I have a really annoying problem with my r33 gts-t here's whats been done recently and what the issue is If i shift into 2nd from 3000RPM to redline it crunches/grinds If i shift to quickly from 2nd to 3rd it crunches/grinds (i need to go from 2nd to neutral then to 3rd to stop it) Now heres the strange thing, If im cruising along say in 4th at 4000RPM then put my foot on the clutch and rev the car it makes a horrible grinding sound like the gears arnt engaged properly, it will only make this horrible sound while the engine is spinning at 3500-4000RPM or more and i press the clutch and rev it If its in 4th at 4000RPM and i let the car slow down enough so when i release the clutch it should be doing 2500RPM then rev it with the clutch pressed it doesnt happen. So in other words in any gear if the engine and gearbox input shaft are spinning at 4000RPM then i press the clutch and rev it i get this horrible sound (the pitch of the noise changes with revs) These problems only started happening after i replaced the engine and clutch with an exedy HD clutch, turns out the engine i brought must have been an auto (had a flex plate bolted to it) I had no problems before i replaced the engine and clutch, Today i pulled the gearbox out hoping to see some sign of this horrible grinding sound but everything looked fine, i lubed up the fork pivot realigned the clutch replaced the throw out bearing and replacing the gearbox oil with a semi syn 75w/90 grade oil. I did notice a little up/down play in the input shaft and some slight forwards/backwards play The clutch starts grabbing half way up the pedal travel so it certainly seems to be disengaging properly

its not a half cut just a complete engine, I dont care if iv been ripped off all im worried about is getting it back on the road with a reliable engine im not going to wait around until i find a good deal to save a few hundred dollers Prices seemed to range from $1200 to $2500 for a complete engine with warranty so i dont feel iv been ripped off

I pulled 3 degrees from the whole map I didnt have it checked on a dyno as the nearest one is over 250kms away I used the ones that come with the motor and no i just put the engine in and ran it I agree it could very well have been a lean out and detonation either way its shagged The car come with the mines ecu and i didnt get a standard one but im swapping it plus cash my way for a standard one in a few days

Oh really? I did do some shopping around and it seemed to be around what you pay for one with 3 months warranty, plus its already payed for and on its way Oh well as long as its good thats all im worried about at this stage

I didnt really have a choice it was my only car at that point in time plus where i live there is no public transport and it was still running The way i saw it the engine was a lost cause and if it completely $#!t itself i wouldnt have been worried (I covered 1300Kms on 5 and a half cylinders), I have the option of stripping it and rebuilding it with forged bits now

Well havnt i had bad luck after bad luck I purchased an engine off a member on here for $700 without the turbo, anyway after spending a weekend putting it in and running into a few hicups i was really looking forward to having it going again. I started it up and all seemed good so i took it for a drive and noticed it was blowing smoke and after 100kms it had used over half a litre of oil also oil temps would sit at about 95 degress while i was cruising, i thought the smoke might clear so i drove it around for a few hours covering another 150kms or so and the smoke wouldnt clear and progressively got worse I kept driving it and about a week or so later i was driving to another town, I was accelerating up a hill then it started missing so i pulled over and it sounded like a wrx and was blowing more smoke than ever so i turned around and took it home. I pulled all the plugs out and number six was missing the electrode, i then went ahead and did a compression test and got 140 psi from 1-5 then come to number 6 and it had 65 . I continued driving it to work and back due to it being my only car until it leaked hot oil from somewhere onto a coolant line to the turbo melted through it and made a real mess so its now parked up yet again. A friend of mine generously gave me a fairly decent car for free so i dont have to rely on the skyline as my everyday car I stupidly forgot to do compressions before i started it but judging from the smoke it had issues from day one, I have since sold one of my bikes to purchase a good engine. I Brought one from a japanese engine imported for $1700 ready to bolt in, it has a factory turbo which i will be using so i can zero out everything on my emanage and run a factory tune. Lets hope i have more luck with this one!

Just getting everything together for my engine im putting in my r33 things i have so far are: Gates racing timing belt (using old tensioner, bearings and water pump off blown motor as they are only a few thousand kms old) Valve cover gaskets Exedy HDCB Clutch kit Genuine Nissan oil filter Turbo Gaskets Is there anything else i should probably replace while the engine is out ?