Slattery Gts-t

Was running a highflow from MTQ at 15 psi on vortex 98 and there was no sign of detonation, i tune it myself for the time being using a wideband and an emanage blue, WOT is around 11.5 to 12.0:1 AFR and iv pulled a few degrees of timing from the whole map as it has a mines ecu

No i wont ever know the true cause all illl know is the engine destroyed itself (with my influence), i do give the car a hard time a fiar bit but who doesnt The previous owner didnt seem like the kind of bloke who would thrash a car but who knows

Actually it was definitely near redline in 2nd My boss keeps giving it to me because he told me to lower the boost but i didnt and he thinks thats what made it pop. The studs wouldnt break on a power stroke because all the force would be on the crank would it not ? Im pretty sure the rod bolts where the cause there both cleanly snapped, if the rod broke first surly the the bottom of the rod would still be bolted to the crank

Well im pretty sure it happened just as i went from 2nd to 3rd so high up in the revs near redline And this block is shagged it has a chunk broken off near where the oil squirter use to be lol

The block is rooted so is the crank and head The rod is in 4 bits, the piston skirts are non existent, the gudgeon pin is cracked in half, the bore and crank have large gouges in them, the bottom of the bore has a chunk broken off it, the oil squirter is snapped off and the rod bearings are twisted and mangled Cause of failure: Rod bolts snapped

Might be something simple like the wastegate is stuck open ?

Okay well got the head off today and its slightly more damaged than i thought Turns out cylinder 4 piston is no longer connected to the crank! im guessing the bottom of the rod has come undone / fallen off and at the piston has tried to exit the engine via the head bending 3 of the 4 valves on that cylinder and forcing the cam back a tooth on the belt The bore is still good can still see the hone marks pretty well and no scratches so thats why im guessing its the bottom of the rod that has let go

Turns out i need a new clutch i wouldnt be comfortable putting this one back in the friction plate is pretty worn and a little torn up, i thought it might be it slipped really bad on me while dropping it in 2nd around a tight corner on a hill didnt grab till it hit about 6000rpm and smelt horrible! its an NPC clutch with an exedy friction plate

Yeah the whole block is painted blue

Well valve float is out of the question then

It used oil when i was running a 5-40 oil but then i changed to 10-40 and all was good, When it $hit itself I was running my highflow at 15-16 psi at an AFR of about 12.0:1 at WOT ( was asking alot from that ceramic exhaust wheel lol ) as soon as it happened my first thought was my turbos ended up in my exhaust or its pingged to death possibly because i switched to vortex 98 from ultimate 98, i never even suspected this sort of thing happening

Engine is out (alot easier than i thought), looking down the spark plug holes i can see a few things on the pistons like 0.10 and "std" and what looks like a part number would this indicate it has been rebuilt previously ? also the block is painted blue. Could the valve damage be caused by valve float at high rpm enough to hit a piston and force the cam to jump back a tooth? just a stab in the dark as it was %100 spot on before hand and definatly only jumped one tooth

Im replacing the whole engine it just didnt get here in time before this one shit itself But your right because i plan to rebuild this engine and now i may have damaged the head Lance: thats what i thought too so its got me buggered, im certain it was spot on before it happened

Just thought id update I was nearing the end of a 300km trip on saturday when all of a sudden there was a loud 'clunk' followed by lots of quieter "clunks" First i though it must be bottom end related as this was unhealthy to start with but turns out my timing belt jumped a tooth on the intake cam and mashed a few valves It only jumped one tooth though is this usually enough to smash valves ? now compression figures are around the 50psi mark with cylinder 4 showing absolutely nothing

Haha oh well that gives me hope that it will last until i organise another engine, Only had this car a few weeks and from the start iv always thought it was lacking power especially off boost well this explains it

I think the gauge is pretty accurate because our compressor reg is set to 100psi and when i sealed the air gun to the gauge and shot 100psi threw it the gauge went straight to 100psi Im pretty confident my engine is shagged lucky it still runs alright, my odo shows 117,000 im taking it that this is wrong or is it not unusual for this to happen to these engines at these kms?

Yeah its the lowest iv ever seen across the board in the few iv tested How much is involved in changing the engine in an r33? taking into account i have acess to a hoist, full toolkit and a few extra hands

Just did compressions on my r33 and got these rather low figures 1 - 105 2 - 108 3 - 105 4 - 97 5 - 110 6 - 106 Tried cylinder 1 again with some oil and got near 200psi, does this indicate my rings are worn to the $hit house ? it uses a bit of oil here and there aswell

I emailed mines with the serial number and they tell me this: Tuned for 100RON fuel Optimised fuel and ignition maps removed speed limiter rev limiter increase +500RPM

Yeah i have read a bit about them heard they arnt any good here, i have been runing bp ultimate with a bottle of wynns race formula octane boost and a bit of xylene each tank and for 3 days it hasnt played but, could my rich and retard be caused by pinging due to the mines tuned ecu ? Could i lower the base timing to compensate a bit ?

Well i just had a look at my ecu and it has one of those gold mines stickers on it

I have an emanage blue i got off a friend will this be any help to me to cure my rich and retard?

Ha ha im new to these forums but iv read alot of threads where "the mafia" gets shot down because his opinions are different to everyone else's Anyway i called MTQ and they confirmed my turbo is high flowed, too bad the standard ecu hates it

Definatly rich and retard, I did some data logging and when the AFM voltage reaches 4.4 or so the timing pulls right back to 0 Deg BTDC and injector duty shoots up Any ideas on how i can stop the boost creeping from .5 bar to .8-9 at redline ?

Ok took the turbo off today It has an id tag from MTQ engine systems with a serial number and part number, also the impeller is 69MM across ( I took the impeller housing off to measure ), The inner diameter of the outlet tube is 52MM from memory