scr33min'

Hey guys, I wasnt too sure where to post this up, and thought this was the best place, But I could be wrong. Im after some measurements from the intake setup from an RB26. Im looking at grafting the individual throttle body setup on to another engine. Firstly, does anyone know the size of the butterflies? (inlet) Also, the size of the ports that sit-up against the engine? I know that they're not round, and a funny shape, but im looking at the diamater of the holes. Secondly, the bolt pattern. Is it the same as an RB25? (just as a comparison, its not for an RBb25) If not, a simple diagram or some measurements would be great! Obviously an adaptor plate will have to be made to bolt it up to any other engine, but im just looking at whether this will be a simpler route instead of custom fabricating six new throttle bodys to fit. And also the RB26 intake would be easier to work with as all the components are already there like links, butterflies etc and just modifying the parts to suit, its also cheaper second hand then buying six new throttle bodys and then having to fabricate them together and make them work together. Any information you guys have on this would be great!

Ok so I've been rocking a Apexi ECV for some time now. I kinda have to when I have a unmuffled 3.5" exhaust.So anyways I've been very reliant on this valve to quieten down my exhaust when driving round town and stuff and it's done a great job.But unfortunately it broke the other day, so I have to use an apexi exhaust silencer insert thing which really effects performance.I've examined the ECV and the issue lies in the line itself, most probably a freyed wire due to its age. So my question is can I just get the line replaced with a new one? Or is it easier and cheaper to just buy a whole new product?It seems a waste to just buy a whole new ECV when it's only something so little wrong with it. I just don't know whether it can be replaced or not.

Ok, so last week I got one of my mates businesses (not going to name anyone here) to order me a rebuild kit for my Trust TD07, which had leaking oil seals. He reassured me that the kit was the correct one for the turbo and all that. Anyways it came in the mail yesterday and I thought Id tackle the task or rebuilding it today as its my day off. Well, after carefully ripping the thing apart and cleaning it I noticed that the parts in the kit are the wrong ones. Theyre too small. Ok, so what I want to know is there anywere I can go in the perth/WA region (or anywhere around australia if worst comes to worst and just express post it) to just get new oil seals for the both sides of the turbo without getting the whole kit? I know of places such as Turbotech, but been told to avoid there if i can, so is there anywhere else I can go for just seals? Any help would be appreciated guys as I need to put it back together asap!

Got any photos bluey33? I've don't this before but a little differently to your method and just want to see the results

Ok so having a quick car is great, but having a quick car that doesn't stop is just scary.I've been looking around at as much forums and build threads as I could to get ideas to how I can get better stopping power. There were a few that we're helpful, but they all upgraded to the newer 5 stud hubs, which is great and all, but I'm in love with my watanabes and white volks which are both 4 stud so I'd rather stick with that. My question is, is there a caliper upgrade that will go over the stock dr30 rotor, or a full brake upgrade that will fit on the stock strut?And is there brake booster upgrade that will go on? R32 brakes and booster would be a nice upgrade...if they can fit of course Cheers guys

You can do that yourself? I thought that it had to be balanced and everything and ripping it apart might put it slightly out of balance?

thanks for your help man. Yeah all signs are pointing towards that. Unfortunately its the most expensive to fix out of the suspected problems

Oil. Never mentioned anything about coolant. Ok so here is what I got from the compression test: #1 - 155. #2 - 150. #3 - 150. #4 - 150.

Would I get any benefits going to that oil though?I guess headgasket could be a possibility, but car still pulls hard and there's no oil in the water or water in the oil.Couldn't be the turbo leaking water as its only oil cooled. I dont know if I've mentioned but it's s trust td07

Full 3" kakimoto exhaust with no cat. Best sounding rb ever!

Ok I'll do a compression test later on tonight.Imusing 20W50 mineral oil, as that's what everyone recommends because of the engines age. I have no idea what oil was in it originally

ok so I changed the oil filter and did and oil change and the smoke was reduced a bit. Maybe it just had bad oil in it or the wrong oil?

Nope. No smoke at all while cruising around or on boost

Ok so at idle im getting a bit of smoke, nothing major but a constant little puff. kinda like condensation, but its always there. But, as soon as i let the car idle after a drive and hit boost, it starts to really smoke. it never did this at all untill a few days ago. its oil smoke, i know that because its blue and smells of oil. What im worried about is that it could be the turbo oil seals gone, and i got quoted $800 for a turbo overhaul for a Trust TD07. I can get the head reconditioned for half that price, getting new valve seals if they are the problem. What I noticed the other day though is a oil leek from the top oil feed to the turbo which looks like its been there for a few days (about the same time since this problem has started), could this be part of the problem, or even better the problem itself (but i doubt it)? the problem is that im not actually near the car untill next week, so im trying to do as much research into this as i can so that i can get straight into what the suspected problem when i can. Could it be the turbo oil seals, the turbo lines blocked or leaking (feed or return) or the valve seals leaking? any info into this would be greatly appreciated as I want to get straight into this asap. cheers oh, the engine is an FJ20 if that helps. Out of a DR30

Ok, so I'm over the sloppy stock brakes on my dr30 and I'm looking for an upgrade.So I was thinking of keeping the stock discs but fitting r32 gts calipers over them, but I don't know if the mounting holes lone up.I know if I convert to s13 knuckles I can fit a wide variety of brakes on no problem but I'm not. Looking into going that far just of yet as I might as well get some s13 coilovers to fit at the same time and that then increases the budget more. So are there any simple upgrades I can do to the brakes without having to change knuckles at all?Cheers, Michael

Ok so I'm trying to wire up the stock tacho in a dr30 to a power fc. The power fc is a s13 sr20de+t so it has an sr20 wiring harness which is all wired up and working with the fj20 motor. So, looking at some ecu pinouts for the sr20 I found the rpm signal wire for the tacho, but theres no signal coming from it. I then tried to splice into the cas 180 sensor which has a signal but the tacho didn't work. Would anyone have any ideas on how I'm going to get this tacho to work? The power fc has rpm input as i have it shown on the hand controller, it's just annoying to have to constantly look at the tiny screen.Any help would be greatly appreciated

I don't think it still has a carbon canister or even a cat, but then again I don't know if Fj20s came with carbon canisters?No it runs a catch can setup, which vents to atmosphere.It does seem to be using a bit of oil but I don't know if it's been doing it constantly or if it only just started recently with this smoke.As far as i know the engine is standard with aftermarket cams and a dirty great turbo strapped to the side which was fitted either just before it was imported by C-red or by the guy who bought it from them. I don't know exactly when it was imported as the receipts I have only go back as far as 2006 but I assume it was a bit before then.

Exactly. Don't know whether it's worth spending the $800 just to keep the Trust logo on the front

yeah im going to rip it all off and see what's going on. I got quoted $800 + gst for an overhaul

its coming out from the exhaust, but you can smell it inside the car when the wastegate opens. Only happens on idle though and real slow driving, no smoke when on boost or cruising around, just the smell

So recently I did a hard pull up a hill in third gear. Everything was normal but when I hit boost I noticed a whitish smoke coming from where the waste gate screamer pipe comes out the side of the car. When I got home I noticed that the top oil feed to the turbo was leaking a bit.Ever since then, after a hard run, and ai leave the car idling for a few minutes, white smoke starts to come out the exhaust which is fairly noticeable. I was thinking that the turbo seals have gone, allowing oil in to the exhaust causing the smoke, but since I've never had a leaky oil feed before could it be as simple as the oil leaking out of the feed being the problem? Or could it be that the previous owner had put too thicker oil into the car? (only had the car a few weeks)The turbo is a TD07 and is high mounted. Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers

I'm probably not the best person to participate in any of these events, but I want a team SAU sticker for my back window!

The bonnet of my car is made of carbon fibre, and the previous owner sprayed it the same colour as the car. There are some sections though were the paint is flaking/peeling, and some where it wont lift off at all. I was originally going to just respray it, but though id be different and go with the naked look. So, is there a way to remove the paint and primer from the clear/gel coat underneath without damaging it? Ive heard soda blasting could be an option, because its not as harsh as sand blasting? Or is the only way to do this, to go down to bunnings and grab a crap load of sandpaper and whip out the electric sander? Im just looking for the easiest method here. And also the quickest if there is one cheers

Cheers guys ill be fitting another turbo or two (getting a working rb20 turbo and unkown condition rb25 turbo) and see if it runs better then Just not looking forward to ripping everything off to clean all the oil out of it.

Nah its not steam. Ive had a blown head gasket before and its not like that. The smoke is white. And I pulled the o2 sensor out after the car was off and smoke came out. I tried letting the car warm up to see what would happen, but the longer i left it, the more smoke came out the exhaust. I stuck my finger in the o2 sensor hole after i started the car for about 2 minutes, and got oil on my finger. So oil is coming into the intake and the exhaust I know a little bit of oil is probably normal, but I wouldnt call this much a little bit. And I also cleaned all the intake pipes about 2 weeks ago, so only took 2 weeks to fill up with oil. Im pretty much certain on blown oil seals on the turbo. What do you guys think? Ive got an rb20 turbo on the way to bolt up to see if that fixes the issue. If it does, new turbo is in order. But if not, then Im guessing ill have to do a full engine rebuild