jonn

Hi Richard, Go Garrett. You should also get in touch with Brockas as his is making around 586hp and that's still a 2.6. I'd start off with the .82 housing to get the best response possible. Well that's what I want to put on mine anyway so would be good to see how it performs No luck with rebuilding the turbonetics or just too costly to do? Cheers, Jon.

Try searching in this section. Someone recently went through all of this. I think it was LotusGTR. Edit. Did your search for you. Try Here!

Looks like it could be HKS?

Actually you can set them in one of three ways, All Round Performance, Maximum Traction and Drift. The kit is designed to lock and/or change the inclination of the rear subframe by fitting the rings in different configurations. All Round Performance does not change the alignment of the diff and has minimal compliance in subframe bushes and mounts. Maximum Traction has the diff inclined for rear squat with reduced bush/mount compliance. Drift has the diff inclined for anti-squat with reduced bush/mount compliance. I would recommend you just go with All Round Performance or Maximum Traction.

You can buy the 300V in a 25L drum. That would do five oil changes @ 4.7L with just a bit left over.

Sure, 1 is the upper control arm, 2 is the traction rod and 3 is a HICAS rod (this is to disable the rear steering setup) your car will probably have the HICAS still installed and it will have hydraulic lines going to it. All the parts in the picture are aftermarket but gives you the general idea.

Lower control arms are front and rear. On the front they are connected by a ball joint to the front sub-frame and another ball joint to the hub. On the rear they are connected to the rear sub-frame by two bolts and a ball joint to the hub. All of this is for a 32 GTR so I'm not sure if your GT-T would be different. Traction rods are found on the rear as you suspected. You can see them behind the the wheels and are angled back in towards to centre of the car-(ish). In the pictures below on the left you can see the rear setup. The short red arm towards the rear is the traction rod and the black arm at the bottom is the lower control arm. In the picture on the right the shiny arm on the top is the upper control arm, this one is after market but you get the idea. The lower control arm is just visible behind the hub. Is that what you were looking for?

It sure can. Nismo has a kit available for it. Try this link Clicky Click

I paid around $250 but it was a few years back now.

Thanks for the offer Paul but I have just received an email from him with an address to send it to. Cheers Jon

Thanks Duncan. I'll shoot him a pm and go from there.

Does anyone know the contact details for Ruzic Engineering? My attessa controller has died (won't let me change maps and the Lat & Long G looks to be wrong). I want to get him to have a look at it and possibly repair it if at all possible.

I paid $270 for all four joints in the front end.

Just plain wrong. A 265 50 series tyre has the same rolling diameter regardless of rim width. The tyre width/ratio has to be the same front to back not the rim width. Rim width has nothing to do with rolling diameter, Tyre width does.

they don't improve the flight of my golf balls

Don't move the needle Have you got the Motec software? If so you can check on the ecu what it's reading and see if it's reading the same as the dash (give or take). Pretty sure you can adjust the pulse width of the tacho signal to suit but don't quote me on that. Idle speed sounds about right at 1100 - 1200 and the tacho won't be able to keep up with the revs anyway, mine doesn't.

You are aware that the width of the rim has nothing to do with the ATTESSA system aren't you? It is the rolling diameter that effects the system so appropriately sized tyres will see no problems at all.

So these are with you in Australia or still in Japan?

Try this for a start

Try this for a start R32_GTR_Heater_and_Air_Con.pdf

Depends if they are the jap built or the swedish built. The Swedish stuff is by far the better quality and rebuildable. Jap version is of lesser quality and maybe not rebuildable. Do a search on here for Ohlins and you'll see what I mean.

^^Totally agree. Remember that when things go wrong on a GTR (32,33 or 34) they are go in multiples of $1000. If you have the money to maintain and repair it then go for it. If you need it checked over go to XSpeed as they are the experts with these things. No one else in Perth comes close.

Yeah no problems here John. I'm very happy with the arms and the suspension place were impressed with the concept and build quality to.

I'm in the same boat. Max I could get is 2.7-ish. I also ordered the race version. I'm not to fazed though as I have some Ikeya lower arms to get a bit more.

Are you sure they are F40's? I can see the part number in one of the pics and it doesn't match the spec sheet you have listed.