jonn

Put me down for a set (track version). Paying the deposit right now.

What upper arms are you going to use on the front? I have the Ikeya LCA kit but still undecided on what to use for the uppers. Nice work on the build and thanks for constant updates.

Three motors due to oil starvation and it's a case of cracking the oil pump where the collar contacts, not spinning on the crank (and there's shed loads of those!). That's the ones I know of. Ask a few on here and there will be plenty more.

It's a good idea. Why isn't it?

Ok. You're talking about warranty, not insurance.

No argument from me here. Just wonder what the return policy is for new items.

You've lost me Nisskid... You get insurance when you ship the item through EMS and yes it's just like Aussie Post. Box goes missing then you get your money back or more to the point Nengun (for example) get refunded and they send you a new item. I'm sure you can get extra insurance if you pay for it but really it's not needed if you are already covered.

Taken from the Nengun website "EMS is a pre-paid international shipping service delivering to most countries in 3-5 days with full insurance coverage. See the Japanese Postal Service website for more information." I have just been supplied incorrect parts from Nengun. I had to send the item to an address here in Perth and then they resent the correct item. No 30% restocking fee unless you ordered the wrong parts. I don't think Nengun, Greenline, Streeter etc do anything different from each other in regards to shipping etc. Maybe check with Streeter and see what his returns policy is? Here is his returns policy which I presume is for 2nd hand parts not new ones?? "With the razor thin commissions I run I am not able to offer warranty or returns for faulty or damaged parts."

Not quite right. You have to pay 10% duty on the wheels (less freight), add that to the cost of the wheels and then 10% GST on top. So wheels eg. $2900 + duty = $3190 + freight (eg. $300) = $3490 + GST = $3839 Then if you get caught you have to either pay to clear them yourself $50 (roughly) or get a customs broker to do it for you. I would suggest doing it yourself as Customs will send you all the forms you need to fill out and are quite helpful if you have any problems.

Serves him right to be stupid enough to get caught 6 times.

Pretty sure it is Butch. I changed from the mild steel version as it was only 3" to the S/S version.

S/Steel version is 85mm or 3.35"

Good luck getting 4 wheels in through customs without getting hit with duty and gst. It doesn't matter who you buy them off in Japan they are all the same price (roughly). When I spoke to customs yesterday they said they are getting tougher on EMS parcels coming through with no value or grossly under valued. When you look at $300-ish on $1400-ish it doesn't make it all that much cheaper any more, does it?

I meant buy through a local business / importer / forum sponsor etc.

Buy local and support the business in Australia That being said I just got sent some Ikeya LCA and customs have picked them up. Cost me just of $300 duty for $1400 items. I spoke to a nice lady at Customs here in WA and she said that they have Nengun / Peter Spencer in their system and will be closely looking at items from him. For larger shipments that can't come through the regular EMS postal service they will use FEDEX or something similar. These guys have their own customs broker service so they dob you in to customs straight away if they see the value is over $1000.

I suggest you read through the 17 pages of posts. Your answers are in there somewhere amongst the mindless dribble you have contributed so well to.

Stick with the -5's and go the 2.8. Have a search for Gav's dyno sheet (built by XSpeed) and take a look at the respone whilst still making 550+rwhp. I've got a similar setup but using the 2530's, now tuned for response over outright hp. My dyno sheet below.

No problems at all. Should perform well with the parts you have listed, especially with the -5's.

Hey Brockas, Have you got any sort of ATTESSA controller? The Ruzic Engineering one is probably the best on the market and infinitely adjustable. I've put one on mine, played with it a little at the last No Limits night. Definitely a worthy addition.

Looking good Bakes. In the real world dyno numbers are just that, numbers. I wouldn't be too worried about getting X kw's .I'm sure the car feels so much better than before and when (if) you take it out on the track you will see the difference. Great looking car, nicely put together thread and excellent standard of workmanship gone into it as well.

Looking good. Keep going with the updates.

There is one for sale in the Netherlands but it's not cheap at approx. $10k (depending on exchange rate) Click Me!

On the caliper bleed the outer nipple (furthest from brake line) first.

Maybe try Heat Treatments in NZ. I recall an early video of his 32 and he uses an enerpac (hydraulic hand pump) or similar to engage the transfer case.

I do see your point and a good post there. Update rate of the GPS is only part of the story as far as timing goes. You have a dead reckoning algorithm based on speed, heading and acceleration to further reduce timing errors. It's a personal preference and I'm not in any way saying one is better than the other. For track days though I would think timing accurate to 0.1s is more than enough. I guess the attraction of the GPS lap timers is the ability to log the whole lap, show sector times etc.