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Navara96

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Everything posted by Navara96

  1. Galvsport in Perth have done the conversion using a BMW DBW motor, not that you could tell by looking at it now(a heap of modifications have been done to it). If you look them up or Gav rb28 you should be able to see the set up
  2. Yeh it would be just to make sure there are no tuning issues... I’m sure Nissan designed it the way they did for a reason just hoping it wasn’t because it creates issues with less volume!
  3. Hi Everyone, Just another case of me getting bored and replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.... this time it's the air chamber or whatever you want to call it from under the rb26 plenum. this thing.. why? Well i no longer have a clutch booster or the factory boost solenoid on my gtr so just had many of the lines plugged up, I also will be getting rid of the stock cold start valve which attaches to this and hopefully removing some (even more if going single turbo) of the 454397 lines that run under the plenum and make everything a pain to work on. It also serves as a great place to add ports for my MAP sensor and boost gauge without it looking horrible and tee'd into other lines or drilling into the balance tube above the injectors. so what i have come up with; which i have 3D printed and all bolted in place with the idle control valve I will end up getting it cnc'ed in once i am happy with the design and port sizes for everything are sorted... but may run a plastic piece originally just to make sure there are no reverberation issues. It will plumb to the 2 factory sources from the balance tube and as you can see bolts to the factory location, the plan being it's only a single custom piece and plays nice with the rest of the factory parts instead of having to change everything around it (other than new lines which will have to be made to suit). let me know what you think, thanks, Nic
  4. globe installed, should be bright enough for a side repeater
  5. I printed out the bulb holder/ socket last night so assuming i can find a globe today I should be able to see how it works latter today.
  6. Hi Guys, Bit of an update, gave this another go... didn't work changed some things.... didn't work redesigned the entire thing with new tools and everything... and this is what i got Now i wouldn't get too excited but it is at least a workable piece. I have had issues the whole time with the tool not releasing after it's set no matter what i have used I just can't get it to release. So this design actually has a 3D printed transparent skeleton inside the part then the acrylic is set around that.... which of course needs elaborate brackets to keep everything in the right spot while setting inside the mould. A lot of work for something so small and unimportant! While I am happy the part can actually be made and i can now make the bulb holder and call it 'completed' the issue still remains that the quality of the final product isn't up to scratch, around the tiles on the face there are still a lot of bubbles and because I haven't remade another mould it has deteriorated and the surface finish isn't perfect. I can fix the later easy enough make a new mould and/or sand back the surface, but the bubbles is a bit more difficult and unless i can find a practical solution that gives a better success rate i'm unlikely to make these for other people. I have enough resin to make probably another 30 of these which i will no doubt still try to do for my car but if I can't get at least 50% to set without bubbles on the front face I won't be ordering more (the resin is not cheap). I will keep you updated with at least a working prototype soon and hopefully some better news on the castings until then thanks for looking and let me know if you have any ideas!
  7. Happy to give it a go! If you have the design ready send me through a pm
  8. Hi Guys, little while without an update, spent the weekend at racewars so has boosted enthusiasm to get some work done on my car! I has been having issues getting the new plastic to print well but i think i finally have it, printed it in clear so it was easy to see any issues and pleased to say it all looks pretty good. added a few little revisions to tidy things up like the temperature probe; and why i bothered making this whole thing..... because where the ac box used to be is now where my ecu and fuse box live! (sorry about the crappy mismatched pieces most were tests to get this new plastic printing properly). let me know what you think, thanks, Nic
  9. Doing it from home, potentially looking to start up a business with it in the future. Building them for our own cars ( there's 10 cars between the 3 of us) along with other friends cars and the odd cash job that's over the last 5 years or so
  10. It's not super difficult, if you are mechanically minded and are familiar with the engines it shouldn't be a problem ( it's not like there is anything super advanced about our 90's Nissan engines). A factory manual is a huge help, goes through everything step by step and what and when tolerances need to be checked etc. get the machine shop to measure up your crank and journals if you don't have at least a micrometer, places that specialise in this work tend to be more accurate/ have more accurate means to check. Order the right stuff to suit and clean it, measure it again.... clean it again and torque it down! We have built 10-15 engines ( including a silly rb27 Neo and rb26 with 500+) without a failure/issue yet... give it a go! Always rewarding to hear something start for the first time you built yourself
  11. Hi mate, I've only just received the new plastic so been doing the test runs with that right now! Please send me a pm if you are interested and we can work something out. Thanks, Nic
  12. So over the weekend I fitted this to a mates GTR for the test run, from this.. to this in about 30 minutes; as you can see it frees up a substantial amount of room and saves a couple kg's in the process. Best of all no air leaks! well nothing significant, while poking around under the dash it turns out almost every join in a 25 years vent system leak. I forgot to bring the clip i made to hold the blower side firmly to the blower motor which is where there seemed to be a small leak but was fixed by pressing on the area so have no doubt that the clip will fix that. some thicker weatherstripping wouldn't go astray but trying to find the OEM equivalent stuff has been a pain. Overall though happy with how it's worked out and performs! Plan from here.... I have some new plastic on the way which has a higher transitional temperature ( when the plastic starts getting tacky) the current plastic is 55*c while this new stuff is 90*c... 55 really shouldn't be an issue but potentially a hot day in the sun might test that more than i would like. I have made a few tweaks just for sensor mounts on the inside so they don't just hang around in there and potentially rattle around with the blower on. When that arrives I can start making the few copies i need to do for others, then finish up the second half of the project... but that is much more specific to my car anyways. thanks for looking! If anyone is interested feel free to PM me, I may send to a professional if there is enough interest otherwise for the odd unit a can use my machine ( just takes 33 hrs to print the assembly)
  13. all ready for a test run! AC ducting showed up today, i'm glad I went to the effort of directing the vents towards each other because it turns out the ducting is rather rigid and really would have struggled to bend it nicely into place other wise. hopefully this weekend i will have some good news.
  14. N1 ducts could be done, but fibreglass copies are easy and cheap to get with no real downside? Vents are available from Nissan, I know they aren't cheap ( I have replaced mine!) but as far as creating every part of the vent to get it work would be a struggle to do cheaper and being such a visible piece would be difficult to get to match the rest of the interior and look of the quality of OEM. Mechanical parts to the vent and the slats could be done easily enough and they seem to be what breaks most often. door handles and surrounds can be done from Nissan for $100ish for both doors. If someone has an expensive 3D scanner that can create part files from it would be worth it just to have the files... but creating the parts from scratch would take hours ( atleast for a major rookie like myself) and be likely worse quality and more expensive than going to Nissan
  15. I have the nismo center caps as a single piece. As far as factory parts I had planned on doing exactly as you said but once I found out about the nismo heritage parts I didn't see the need for a lot of them. If there are any parts that people are particularly interested in I'm happy to try create a file for them though!
  16. Some terrible plastic welding later and that's majority of the assembly complete! I have to wait till the ac ducting shows up to join the 2 halves but other than a few minor tweaks that should be it. Both halves fit pretty well so I'm quietly confident with how low the air flow is through the system there won't be any leaks but assuming the ducting shows up this week hopefully next weekend I will be able to test fit it all on a friends gtr and give it a proper test... I already have 3 sets of these i need to make for friends so i may send to a professional to print assuming the prices aren't too bad. then the next step.... the real reason i deleted this box... you will have to wait and see if you are interested
  17. Almost there... over the last few days i have had some issues with the printer... it has been running non stop for about 3 months now so isn't really a surprise but annoying none the less! the worst part was the issue generally showed up 6-8 hours into a print making it a huge waste of material and time when it happen. I have however pulled it all apart and made a couple mods and happy to say it's printing better than ever now. reprinted blower motor side; and installed the whole assembly currently; last piece of the puzzle is the blower side vent which is printing as i write this... and potentially a clip to hold the blower side tight to the top of the blower motor which has no factory mounting points and over 25 years of heat cycling and the weight of the AC box on it has warped a bit in my car
  18. small update, did a bit more work on this last night. Sorted the vents to run between the 2 halves, they have a 70 mm ID and without the AC condenser/radiator in the way i dare say it won't restrict flow too dramatically. The heater side was a bit of a pain I had to make to sure there was enough clearance to get the electrical plug on and off but also wanted to keep the flow as direct as i can.... anyways pictures; the rendering new part attached (on the final part i will probably plastic weld it but for now glue works) weather stripping to hopefully seal the edges and finally test fitted, happy to say it clears!
  19. Hi Guys, An opportunity has come up for me to purchase my dream wheels so looking to move my other sets on (both will be ready in around 2 weeks).... first set; Nismo/Rays LMGT 2's 17x9 +20 all round recently refurbished (polished, new chromed stainless bolts) -centres stripped and resprayed in 32 gtr gunmetal, clear coated then stickers added and cleared again. Barrels have been sprayed in high temp clear to prevent brake dust from sticking. -New genuine rays valve stems -comes with new billet centre caps anodised black (i have a set of original centre caps that will go with as well some tabs broken). -comes with nismo wheel nuts ( only certain nuts fit these wheels) looking for $3800 ono BBS LM's 18x9 +20 all round going through a bit of a refurb currently barrels are getting the small amount of gutter rash welded up and re polished. -New black stainless bolts -barrels getting high temp clear coated -faces are in good condition (some have some chips) but can't find a colour match I'm happy with to respray them in so staying as original. -genuine black centre caps. looking for $2600 ono Again they are not ready yet but looking for some solid interest so i can put a deposit down on the other wheels. Can post at buyers expense, fell free to PM me if you have any questions. thanks!
  20. Sorry for the complete lack of updates on this.... it's been pushed to the back of the list for a while now. I have a few big projects happening currently... a build for racewars which is nothing but one off parts and a 1jz type x that a lot of attention (read a heap more custom parts) is going into to keep it race reliable. But I have looked into a few different options thanks to some of your suggestions and hopefully give it another shot sometime soon
  21. Haha it's like that... printing stuff for no other reason than you can! Printers are much more affordable than many think, mine was less than $500. Is it professional quality? No but it's certainly not terrible and a lot of what I use it for prototyping parts to be done by CNC which is expensive to redo!Considering I was getting quotes for 80-200 for each of these pieces and 2-4 week wait time it was worth it for me. If you are looking to get some stuff made mate pm me and I'll do my best to help out
  22. and a quick one of the blower motor side (this is the first test piece)
  23. Hi Guys, I haven't forgot about the indicators integrated with the GT badge! i have just had a heap of work and other more pressing projects on the go lately..... one of them being this. As many have before I have deleted the air con on my 32... but unlike most I haven't stopped at engine bay, my plan was to delete the box under the dash as well but keep the blower motor and heater functioning....and maintain a working digital climate control (well minus the cooling bit.) The only way i could find to do this originally was to buy an N1 'AC box' and the manual climate control unit (N1's came out with no AC) which believe it or not is expensive, difficult to get a hold of and means you need to get rid of the sweet climate control set up. so instead i wasted a heap of time and came up with these; Now as you can see it's missing the ducting part but i wanted to ensure i could sort the difficult part first before dealing with that, so after getting $$$$ quotes to 3D print parts i wasn't sure would even work I bit the bullet and bought this.. and after converting computer speak to printer speak and 16 hours of printing later, this; turned into this; thanks for looking, I will have more shortly as i'm looking to wrap these up within the next few weeks
  24. The factory senders flog out all the time, I just replaced mine. I was told that the cluster read from one sender and the oil pressure light from a seperate switch... if you show no pressure on the gauge with no oil light on, then it is more than likely a shit sender not a pressure issue
  25. update.....but not the good kind the first piece out of the mould today.. and by out of the mould i mean it glued itself completely to it and i needed to cut the mould, freeze the tool and badge together and smash it with a hammer to get the tool back out. I did have photos but instead of sending them to mail I sent it to trash....not all that smart of me -__- It would seem though believe it or not that not everything on youtube is as easy as it seems! I know shocking. On the upside the piece that was welded to the tool actually did look pretty good, the GT pieces sat nicely and even after the hammering were still held solid inside the cast so i don't think durability will be an issue, also there were minimal air bubbles in the resin for a first attempt. So I'm not giving up, but it may be a while till the next update. I will have to find a better release agent, repair the tools and redo the mould.. so basically starting from scratch again
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