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SOLD - admin please remove ad. thank you.

bump... she's still here for whoever wants her. For some reason its not letting me edit the original but... Mileage is 183,000 km

have you sold the R33 s1 drivers window switch? if not please pm.

FOR SALE is my R33 GTS-T nissan skyline. Engine: 2.5L inline 6 cyl, turbo. Asking $7200 (negotiable) I'm a longtime lurker on this site, and the community has helped me over the years with maintenance issues and projects. The community also helped me find my skyline, and now its time to give it back and move on. Its truly a great car and I have no doubts it will please its next owner. Sleek Black with subtle-tasteful mods. NO TROUBLE WITH THE POLICE! - all mods are street legal. The car itself has the stock body kit but due to large 18" rims looks much lower (stock kit is 10cm from legal limit anyhow). The Rims arn't flashy or showy at all, which is exactly why I like them - subtle. Custom modified stock bumper for maximum airflow to the Front Mount Intercooler, which also has model specific piping to prevent having to cut into the firewall at all. Thousands spent on cosmetic as well as performance mods - Custom Moulded fibreglass Sub box in the boot along with the Pioneer splits and singles inside pump amazing sound. Fresh fluids, new brakes, new tyres (less than 2000km on them), etc. the whole lot. Mods as follows: -Model specific FMIC -Custom modified stock front bar (no cutting of reo bar) -3" Exhaust including HIGH FLOW cat -5" Stainless exhaust tip - sounds AMAZING -Exedy heavy Duty Clutch -Turbo Timer -Boost Controller (although running stock boost) -Neon Blue digital Boost Gauge -18" Rims - low profile tires -Bosch Fuel Pump (rated up to 500HP) -HKS Pod Filter -Complete Sound System (Pioneer Front Splits, 12" Infinite Competition Sub in custom box with wall mounted amp in boot, 6" Pioneer Rear speakers) -Keyless entry, Alarm with 3 point Immobilisation -Aftermarket Steering Wheel -Red brake calipers Still has original Skyline Carpets. Finishing University and moving away, and the car must go. If I was staying I would keep it, it runs great has had all regular maintenance done, and I am sad to see it go. Asking $7200. All reasonable offers considered, the price is NEGOTIABLE. RWC included. Contact Rob. (04) 5233 6588 [email protected] or send me a pm, but i don't always sign in everyday.

I know its not the most technical or exciting problem, and seems quite boring, and not many will feel like taking the time to post on it. But, here she goes... 1994 gts-t 180k km, so she has done her time, but has been generally well taken care of. The passenger window works fine when using the passenger switch. it goes up and down, no issues. From the driver side, i can move the passenger window down, but not up. I haven't had the time to do any diagnostic work yet, but from my limited knowledge of electronics, i think i have two possibilities: 1) it is the switch, in which case i replace it, and all is well. 2) it is a loose wire, somewhere between driver door and passenger door, in which case i will hate my life for a little while as i chase it down. Does that seem about right? can anyone recommend some tests i might try? also, does anyone have wiring diagrams for this car? any idea what path these wires take, and which wire on the switch is what? thanks

So, i've been away for a month and a bit, i came back, and sure enough, my battery is dead. I tried to jump it off a friend's car, but no luck, my interior and dash lights turn on, volt meter shows that good current is being passed to my battery, but when i try to start, she barely cranks. could it be that the battery is just so dead that even when hooked up to another car, it doesn't have enough juice to start? should i leave it connected to my friends car while its running for a few minutes to try to charge the battery, and then try to turn the key? ps, the jumper cables i got from my friend were a little thin, any possibility that the cables are just not thick enough to enough amps to crank my engine? any input would be appreciated, thanks

speaking from experience as an automotive machinist... you really do have to overheat the head to get it to warp, and even then, not every overheated head is warped. that being said, it is always a good idea to machine a head whenever you take it off. it'll make sure that you have a nice flat surface for your new gasket. whatever you do, DON'T use any air tools (wire brushes or the like) or do any heavy hand sanding of any of the machined head surfaces, that WILL warp it. if you do have some mechanical experience, go for it. if the other option is wrecking it, what do you have to lose? just take lots of pictures as you work, and i am sure there are some write ups to be found on here.

SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for all the input and ideas from everyone. ended up finding a bad connection under the bonnet. i didn't trace it all the way around to see where it went. just went as far as i had to. as this car has a lot of aftermarket wiring floating around, and i didnt want to bother trying to decipher it all, i'll do that in the future if i have to. everything seems to be good. she fired right up when i repaired the earth wire, the earth itself was corroded, and the wire was rubbed through in one place. but that's what you find in a 17 year old car. checked the charge at the battery in the boot, she is charging 14.1 volts... slightly less than my desired 14.2-4, but what're you going to do. i'll just write it off as a slight inaccuracy in my voltmeter. cheers all

i'm still looking to find the bad connection. but i also decided to check alternator on the posts under the bonnet, before i only checked it on the battery in the boot. it seems that under the bonnet my alternator is charging 15.2 volts... overcharging... but none of that is going back to battery, and nothing from the battery is getting to the front... so i continue to look for my short... but at least i dont necessarily need a new alternator. we'll see if its still overcharging once everything is fixed.

unfortunately i didnt have a second hand to help out with cranking the car while i check battery volts. however, i did hook up the spare battery to the battery in the boot and try to jump that way. got nothing. but when i hook up to posts under the bonnet she fires up. so i am betting on some kind of electrical short/problem between battery and alternator somewhere, and this problem is also affecting the ignition circuit. i checked, tightened and cleaned my earth connections in the rear, as well as the ones under the bonnet (brushed them up with a wire brush, and reattached them) but everything seemed good to begin with. so the problem is electrical. i just have no idea where it might be.

this is where i am leaning. i've been hooking the spare battery up under the bonnet. i'll try hooking it directly to the battery in the boot. when i have the key in and turned to on position everything works in the car except for windows. so maybe youre right, it will draw small amounts of power but not enough for everything. but once i turn the car on with spare battery, and unhook the spare battery (from under bonnet) the windows work fine. i dunno, doesnt really make sense to me. we'll see. i have no idea as to car history. bought it 7 days ago... ran fine for a week no issues whatsoever. there is a lot of aftermarket wiring running around this demon. with alarm, turbo timer, sound system... gauges... and a few other little bits, there is a lot of wires and fuses thrown in everywhere, i am not too sure where what goes to. as for checking cranking voltage i would have, but there was nobody around to check for me this morning. a starter problem just doesnt make sense though. the starter starts the car just fine when i have jumper cables hooked up to the positive post under the bonnet. i doubt its a starter issue. car starts fine when its getting power. if there were starter connection issues, then it shouldnt start regardless of whether i hook power up under bonnet or boot. thanks for all the replies guys. i'll keep you informed on what i find when i get home this evening. if nothing, then its off to the shop tomorrow morning. between school and work, i dont have much spare time to muck around, as much as i'd like to.

yea. i've been looking at everything, but everywhere i hit with a test light seems to light up no problem. i've been checking my earths by hooking up to power and then tapping earths and its lighting up. this is quite puzzling. i'll check out labrador auto

can anyone recommend a reputable mechanic in the varsity lakes/burleigh heads area? if i cant catch the issue by tonight i'll probably drop it off somewhere tomorrow morning.

also, if it were just a bad alternator... would that stop the car from starting? i've been working on the assumption that it wouldn't, but can anyone shed some light on that?

well, i went out this morning. both batteries are good. new one in the car read 12.5, old one out of the car read 12.3. test light told me there was power getting to the alternator. i then used hte old battery to jump the car. and the battery in hte car now read 12.4. so the charging system isn't working. i also checked all my fuses hoping for a long shot but all the damn things were good. thanks for the offer, but i'm about 1.5 hours south of you. i think that puts me a little out of your range. well, battery is in the boot, when i jump it i hook up to the positive post under bonnet, and a bolt from the strut for earth. and the terminals are all good and tight, just dropped in a new battery last night thinking it was just a battery problem. oh well. can anyone else throw some ideas at me?