Timcgt

So ive done a wee bit of research and apparently its not as easy as just dialling in 15psi.... so to get me out of trouble and a temporary fix i will run a vac line direct from the fitting just after turbo to the wastegate actuator. i have a knock monitor on the way but dont think it will be here by the weekend. hoping it just runs a bit rich over the rev range. i might turn on the knock correction in ecu manager and go for a squirt and see if it drops any timing....

How do I lower my boost? I have ecu manager,

New actuator didnt fix the problem. Constant boost cut on full throttle. I think scotty nm35 is onto something. Its cold as hell down here atm. And when i picked the car up from brisbane it was fine but that was summer time in qld, no overboost issues, now its winter time in lower SA.... How can i drop my boost level in ecu manager so i can test the actuator? If i go down to 14.7psi, and even if it is opening slow or not flowing enough it should still stop boost rising once its fully open? I cant seem to alter or even find my max boost setting in haltech ecu manager. i can alter boost cut and restore but cant find anything else. I have a track day next weekend. Will i do it harm if i just plumb vac line direct from fmic pipe just after turbo to the wg so it opens at 14.7? will it just run rich? or is there a chance it'll lean out? Also, do you guys recommend running 6 litres of oil if im slidng it to try and prevent oil starvation in a internally stock rb25

Now I'm worried about sliding my rb25. Internally standard. You guys recommendhaving 6litres of oil in it. I'm no pro drifter lol first drift day coming up next weekend.

18psi It has slowly gotten worse. It did it once on the drive back from Brisbane and once on the dyno run. But now its constant boost cut with full throttle. I have another actuator coming so I'll try that

Haha if you can find me a step by step guide I'll have a crack. If the turbo has to come off I'll be replacing it with something a bit more responsive. I might try and drop the boost to 1bar and see if that changes anything, if it keeps hitting boost cut then I'll get serious. For now I'll swap the valve as they're only 50 bucks. Have a skid day coming up at tailem bend motorsport park so want it going hard for that

I took it for a spin with the vac line connected directly to the wg actuator and it opens at 15 psi (so i guess its a 1 bar actuator) What if i just go for a new boost control soleniod? the mac valve if i can find one Now it is just a constant overboost with full throttle and it used to be every now and then. So something has been faulty and now is buggered? That is the only thing that can really cause these symptoms from what i can tell?

Just to test wg actuator? I woulda thought it will work. If I try and test the whole system with the solenoid still connected I need manifold pressure

How will I find out what actuator pressure is? Just join the lines and go for a spin?

Yeah there is a filter on the other side of that valve, I'll pull it out and see if it's blocked. Also the signal for boost is just after the turbo in the cooler pipe. How does it work? Map sensor tells the ecu manifold press, then sends the signal to that valve which switches and uses the boost pressure to open the wg?

I disconnected the actuator and the wg flap moves freely and the actuator has plenty of pull. Is there any way I can test the little boost control solenoid? The vac lines are pretty much new, but I will replace them anyway

How do I turn the boost down? Ecu manager won't let me change anything, and what would cause it to spike?

Could it be boost cut, it is overboosting now, it used to spike a tiny bit but now it is flat out

Cheers for the input guys, bit more helpful than a couple other forums I've been on

Doesn't run a maf sensor, doesn't run an oxygen sensor, it hasn't always been there, it's what I would call a misfire, fullpower, to nothing then full power, might do it twice and then its all good all the way to 7300, It does seem to be getting worse, I will try plugs and see what happens. Turbo I was told is a gt30/76, other than that I don't know. How can I check vct? It is all good if I ease into it. I'll go for a squirt and have a go at data logging it later today so I know exactly what psi it's at Haha yeah it 'looks' like there is a bit of room but I've run out of space in the tunnel so would be a massive job to move it back to get the cooler hidden

Haha yeah.... Need to do something about that, not sure whether to try waic or try running 2 small coolers on either side, don't have much room to play with

Cheers mate, yep I'll bang some pics up this weekend

What heat range plugs should I get? And Iridium or platinum?

Yep if I go wot in every gear, but I can ease it on and it's fine

Ah ok it has .7 gap plugs atm not sure on type, what do you mean by cold plugs?

Hey guys, I have a bmw e30 coupe, with a rb25 and 5 speed setup out of a r33. It has (from what ive been told by prev owner) gt30/76, upgraded injectors, fuel pump, 3 inch tbe, haltech platinum pro plug in. Was meant to be making 270rwkw, but that was on a dyno dynamics dyno, i did a run on a mainline dyno and made 240rwkw with very safe afrs, and a touch of wheelspin. (18psi) I am having a huge misfire at about 3000rpm under load, if i baby the throttle on it doesnt misfire at all, i had heard the coilpacks are known for issues. So i have swapped in some yellowjacket coilpacks but with no difference. I have fixed a few issues, the install was a bit shoddy. not impressed with the work done to be honest. I dont know where it was tuned, i have the haltech ecu manager but honestly dont have much of an idea as to what i am doing lol. it also doesnt run a afm or oxygen sensor but it was very safe on the dyno run so im not overly stressed about the tune. Where would you recommend a retune in adelaide? Any ideas on the misfire guys? Cheers for any input!

Both :-) I think theyre around 1200 kgs. Ill weigh it when I get it back from my tuned

Turbo is gt30/76, worth upgrading?

Ive heard stories of 500hp on stock internals?