turbo76lx

Started wiring the body harness, had to sort through and cut up some spare wiring looms to make one good one up. Looking at buying the Link G4+ thunder ECU, seems to have everything I will need and more. http://www.linkecu.com/G4PlusThunder

Made up a bulkhead fitting for the attesa lines. Also stripped the R33 loom to reuse some of the wire. One day later.

Bit more done, started the brake lines and fuel lines. Got sick of using a cheap brake line flaring tool so lashed out and brought a sykes pickavant flaring tool but my super dodgy tube straightener make from roller door wheels still works ok.

Started filling all the 10mm hole that were drilled from when the dealer had it rust treated back when it was new. They weren't scared to drill random holes everywhere to spray the rust treatment in. It's nice when you find bog inside the car and a random hole. This quarter panel on the passengers side did have 16mm of bog in it so I guess they started levering the quarter out from the inside. Some of the other old repairs, looks like they cut patches out from inside the car to hammer the sill panel out.

I've already made the fuel tank, it's back on page 1, no need to pay anyone as i've made a fuel tank and fuel cells in my time.

Removed the back fuel tank mount that had been butchered for the old drop tank and filled the two back body plug holes. Maybe I should made 2.

Got the other side done.

Started filling in the gap from cutting the body to clear the tyres, because I've had to cut so high I had to weld the two inner panels together first. The fun of welding through tar, body deadener and paint. Little bit of rust in the lower 1/4 so easier to just cut the whole section out as this is covered by the flare. One side done.

Decided to try and for Currie Enterprises Johnny Joints to the front caster rods since the rubbers are flogged out. I think these will be ok considering they are used in the suspension of 3 ton rock crawlers and the engineer is happy with them because of the urethane bush. It's a pity it wasn't 0.4mm bigger in diameter then it could have been pressed in and not have to weld it. Tapped a new thread for the grease nipple through the castor rod and lined it up with the grease nipple hole in the johnny joint then welded it on both sides. Also dropped the motor, turbo and dump pipe back in to see if the brake line will clear and be far enough away from the exhaust.

Another little job done, remade the front brake hard lines from the brembos the the brake line mount.

Got the other side flares done and put it on the ground to see how it looks. This is with no springs sitting on the bump stops to check clearances. This is at standard ride height, will probably lower it about 20mm.

Started on the other side.

Started on the rear flare. Made some adaptors to mount he Recaros on the autotecnica seat rails.

Started extending one of the front flares, thought I would try the tape and bog trick. Cut the bottom off the flare and screwed both parts to the guard. Put masking tape across the two. Mixed up some bog and towelled over the tape and also cut some tig filler rod that I pushed into the bog to give it some extra support. After the bog was dry I remover the flare and fibreglassed the inside. Still needs a lot of work but should come up ok.

Looks like i need to cut and extend the front flares about 50mm.

Ended up getting some Achilles 265/35 18 sport 2's to set up the flairs, the front flairs are going to need a lot of work. I think I will need to cut them and extend the height to allow for when the wheels are turned and suspension travel. And why, because voices.

Update time. So finished building the LX sedan, rebuilt motor back in the purple hatch just waiting to get it tuned, brought a HT kingswood I'm still trying to work out why I brought it, and gave my HJ panel van some love. The HT The van, air baged, 9", 4 link, tubbed, injected 308, t700 box. So now I'm back into this project, brought some recaro SR2 and started setting up the panels to set the panel gaps and fit the flairs which will need a bit of work.

Maybe interested depending on location.

Sorry guys, no updates but getting closer to finishing this one then i'm back into it. photobucket link http://s664.photobucket.com/user/turbo76lx/library/A9X%20hatch http://s664.photobucket.com/user/turbo76lx/library/a9x%20hatch%202

No real updates, have been working on this one. And melted a hole in number 6 piston in the purple hatch, lift pump failed and leaned out at Heathcote last October. The motor is currently at JPC getting rebuilt.

Have a look at rs online for the sensors. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/magnetic-pickups/2355706/

Had the front quaife centre turn up, now just waiting on the rest of the bearing so I can put it together.

Hi Kris..

Hi Justin yes this is out of GTR R33, I would go the 3843S-RS520 kit This should help for the part numbers. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/repair04.pdf I brought the kit form rhd japan http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-r200-mechanical-lsd-disc-kit-rs521.html Negun also have rebuild kits. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit. The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away. I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit. The brake away torque to start with was 25 ft/lb and ended up with 69 ft/lb. Gave the pressure rings and the casing a polish with some fine sand paper and filed the sharp edges, this helped the pressure ring slide smoothly. Pressure ring before polishing. After Polishing the casing where the ears run. Made some plates to bolt to the flanges for testing and removing the stubs. Put back together with a quick coat of paint. Also started to de-burred the block and modified a corner on the fuel tank to give the exhaust more clearance.