Phyco

Yeah, initially the reason I didn't think to include it was that it was noted as optional on the original post to prevent the overheat function triggering the AC, and not as a requirement for the mod to work. That may be due to things being setup a little differently in the R34. Oh well, at least this is here for anyone who may come across it in future.

Well we got there. Turns out the diode mentioned in the original post as a method to prevent the overheat function turning on the aircon on the R32, actually works to make this functional on the R34. I bought a pack of 1N4004 from Jaycar ($0.95) and added one inline, with the cathode towards the AC relay. Everything behaves as expected now! Thanks for your help @GTSBoy

Thanks for the detailed response. The point about the ECU switching the control pin to earth when the ignition is turned off makes sense. As for shorting the temperature switch, that may be more difficult. The R34 doesn't have the same setup as the R32 does with a temp switch in the radiator to control when the aux fan is triggered (there are no sensors in the radiator at all). I don't know exactly what logic the ECU uses to determine when to trigger the aux fan, but from what I have been able to determine online it's a combination of values from the coolant temperature sensor in the water inlet on the intake manifold, and the AC pressure switch (ECU pins 56 & 57, respectfully). I could short the temperature sensor here but I have no idea what else uses it, nor do I know whether it alone will actually trigger the aux fan anyway. I'm leaning towards 'working around' the problem if there isn't a simple solution I'm missing here. I know the aux fan draws 12v/80w max so roughly 6.7A, and more than likely when the weather is hot I am always going to have the aircon running, so I could unpin the fan wire from the aux fan relay entirely and connect it to a suitable new relay with a power source that is only hot while the engine is running, and use the AC relay to trigger it. Here is the full ECU pin-out if that is any help to anyone (either with this, or in future).

At risk of raising this thread from the dead, I've just tested this mod on my R34 and would like to see if anyone can assist with some minor troubleshooting. I've bridged the trigger pins between the AC and Auxiliary Fan relays, which works to trigger the Aux Fan to start with the AC Compressor (perfect) but the problem now is that the Auxiliary Fan is staying on after the ignition is turned off, unless I remove the bridge on the trigger pin. I can't seem to figure out why it's happening to determine a path forward, other than just concluding that nothing is triggering the Aux Fan relay to 'off' state, and that it has constant power due to the overheat function allowing it to continue running when the ignition is turned off. For reference here is the pin-out on the R34 (GT-T Series 1). Auxiliary Electric Fan Relay Pin #3 [black wire/white stripe] connects to 30A Fuse (F/L - 7) Pin #5 [black wire/yellow stripe] connects to auxiliary fan motor positive Pin #2 [green wire/yellow stripe] connects to 10A fuse (#13) Pin #1 [green wire/brown stripe] connects to ECU port 78 (Auxiliary electric fan relay control signal) <--Trigger Air conditioner Relay Pin #3 [purple wire] connects to 10A fuse (#35) Pin #5 [blue wire/yellow stripe] connects to air conditioner compressor positive Pin #2 [purple wire] connects in-line to pin #3 Pin #1 [green wire/red stripe] connects to ECU port 14 (Air conditioner relay control signal) <--Trigger Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

That is quite a sexy engine bay I have to admit. Mine isn't winning any beauty awards at the moment but a more updated pic is attached than what I posted earlier. Thanks for all the advice in this thread anyway, based off that and some other reading I've done I've decided to go for this and will mount under the airbox for extra stealthiness https://www.tuffcarparts.com.au/proflow-750ml-stealth-black-oil-catch-can-tank-wit~13846

Thanks guys for the help so far. Yes I thought this also, but the cans I was looking at with the vent on the top still seemed to have 2 ports anyway. Like there was meant to be two inlets from the crank case where I only have the one (seeing as the two ports already join into one atop the engine). Can I just block one of them up on the can without causing any negative effects as long as it has the breather on it? Based on advice I've gotten, as my AFM has been moved to the hot side of the intake, and I don't want any potential for oil residue to contaminate it.

Hey guys... Not a very frequent poster here so bear with me please. In the process of getting all the varying issues on my R34 sorted before I take it in for tune (boost was previously turned right down as I bed in a new head gasket). One of those 'issues' is with the intake piping, the oil breather line from the crank case is currently not connected to well, anything. It's just hanging down through the engine bay to under the car. Obviously this is not ideal and the tuner mentioned I would want to get some sort of catch can setup before bringing the car in. I don't want to feed the oil line back into the intake which I guess means I'll be venting it to atmosphere. After searching and reading through a tonne of threads on this forum and others I'm still no clearer as to what I need to buy unfortunately, as it seems all catch cans seem to have two inlets whereas I only appear to have one line that needs to be connected. Pic for reference, not exactly an up to date one unfortunately but it shows the line I'm talking about clearly enough. Can anyone advise me on this? Secondary question, from everything I've read for venting to atmosphere it's said the PCV should be blocked, is there any real issue likely to come from not doing that? Cheers

Hey mate still available at all?

Just for anyone who might be wondering, in GT-X models that included the Xanavi GPS/TV Package & Skyline Holographic Sound option from factory, the antenna booster wire is actually red with a white strip. There is still a grey wire with blue strip in the loom, but at this stage I haven't been able to work out what it actually does.

Narrowed mine down to a contact issue on the TK20 Brown Connector (fuel gauge side) at the back of the cluster, as it has inputs/outputs for all the affected items (Door Locks, Reverse Chime, Speedo, Tacho, Engine Temp etc) just in case that is of any help to anyone else in future!

Hi mate, MFD definitely gone? Cheers

Hey, Just wondering if you got anywhere with resolving this crissy? They are all connected in some way, as I have exactly the same issue. I have narrowed it down to the either the ODO/Speedo/Tacho cluster or one of the cables running into it, as generally by giving it a bit of hard tap or removing and reconnecting one of the cables from behind the cluster the issue goes away (until next time). It's funny when starting the car as you don't get the reverse beep or have the doors lock, and then all of a sudden everything happens at once, like a delayed reaction.

Steering wheel looks good, you do it yourself? The leather on mine is terrible, been meaning to look into getting it fixed...

I have an MFD Surround on order from Nissan, will need to measure it (diagonally at least) for what I intend to use it for, so I will try to remember and let you know when it shows up.

How much for the arc box posted to 6065 WA?

After looking at the picture on it, it may function as the fog light switch in models that have fog lights installed.

I'm not in front of mine right now but fairly sure that switch toggles the interior lighting on and off, independently of your Park Lights/Head Lights.

Sold it I'm guessing?

Cheers, happy to take it off your hands for $250 and whatever postage cost is to Perth.

Still available? Also, does the plastic cover (with the cracks) look like it can be removed?

In the WA section might be more appropriate, though you may have done that already since you posted this

Done!

Okay, so I pulled the shifter apart today and found out it is actually relatively simple to get to the two bulbs underneath. First you need to take out the surrounding part of the console by removing the screw behind the ashtray and then prying it up with a blunt, flat object. Next you will need to use a philips head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding in the shifter itself. After this it is just a simple matter of prying off the plastic that surrounds the remains of the shifter (small white stick looking thing). Once this is done there are two small (tiny) globes directly below the "PRND32" section that can be removed/replaced. I will upload pictures tomorrow once I have the replacement bulbs!

Bump? Had a bit of a search but didn't turn anything up