Dre678

Hi guys, After reading every single post and Dyno on the RB25 dyno page and reading up on the 'stage 1' mods for a R33 GTSt, I've done the following to my car (in addition to what the last owner did). -Blitz SE FMIC -New AFM (stock) -Apexi Pod filter -JJR stainless bellmouth front pipe - Blitz SBC Spec-S Boost Controller -3" high flow cat -3" Fujitsubo catback -Yellowjacket coilpacks -NGK platinum plugs gapped to 0.8mm And after noticing the car struggle when I ran around 10PSI, I had Andrew from Hyperdrive check the car out. The result from the dyno was a truely pathetic 171 RWHP - less than what the car should make completely stock!!! The car is a 1996 S2 R33 with 145 000km's on the clock, the timing belt was done just prior to 100 000km's. He was at a loss to fully explain was was happening He did mention the 'fuel-cut' ECU that impedes anything more than the stock 7PSI. The attached dyno graph shows what is happening. The yellow line is at stock boost and the blue line shows what happened when he turned the boost up to 10PSI. The gradient of the blue line suggest that it would hit around 240HP if the fuel made it there. Whilst I have read some people encountering a similar fuel cut problem (seems common on Stagea's?) most seem to encounter the fuel cut with a stock turbo running at 12+ PSI. Whilst he was certain an aftermarket ECU and tune would solve the problem, this car represents a daily for me and I didn't think the ECU was necessary for 10 PSI. His immediate suggestion was a fuel cut defender. With a supply and installation cost of around $400 it kind of represent the final straw for me If this doesn't cure the lack of power, then was on earth could it be? 20120124113644d.pdf

There's a guide here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42819-rb25det-changing-the-spark-plugs/ If you're changing the coilpacks, consider changing or re-gaping the spark plugs (depending on your future mods etc). Took me more than an hour haha.. the intake pipe going into the throttle body will get in the way of one of the coils as it crosses directly over it. You can either remove a few pipe clamps/bolts and move it out of the way or completely remove it to access the coilpack.

Matt, I bought my R33 with a similar problem. I did, however, have the car inspected before I had bought the car. He was 90% certain it was the coilpacks (which as you've found out, it a common problem). The tacho was also faulty (again, a common problem) So knowing that those things are wrong, and also knowing fixing both are very straight forward diy's, I got quotes from professionals to fix both, presented that to the seller and shook the f*ck out of the selling price Naturally any quotes from mechanics are going to be sky high when they quote factory parts! Haha He accepts (as like your seller, he knew f*ck all about cars) because he thinks his car is terminally ill, and you make a killing - with extra money now ready for mods! Good luck.

Car looks awesome mate, nice work!

I thought I had the same problem when I changed my park lights. Turned out the contact pins on the light were not exactly aligned to touch the contacts of the plug. Seems obvious, but it nearly fooled me

Gents, A couple of questions I'm asking in preparation for my EBC installation: (Background info: My car 1996 R33 S2 GTST stock turbo) 1) Currently a air line runs from one of the solenoid ports to a point down stream of the AFM (but before the turbo). Can this line stay as is? 2) Must the old solenoid be unplugged? I'm reading conflicting advice... 3) See attached - is this a good vacuum line to tap when running a vacuum line direct to the boost controller?

Definitely worth getting an inspection if you're no mechanic yourself. I've used this guy before: A1 AutoCheck He's VERY thorough. He'll usually call after the inspection and give you the low down - he'll then follow up with a pdf report. I've attached a report from a R33 that he inspected. The guy is very objective with his feedback. Report.pdf

Definitely worth getting an inspection if you're no mechanic yourself. I've used this guy before: A1 AutoCheck He's VERY thorough. He'll usually call after the inspection and give you the low down - he'll then follow up with a pdf report. I've attached a report from a R33 that he inspected. The guy is very objective with his feedback.

Definitely worth getting an inspection if you're no mechanic yourself. I've used this guy before: http://www.a1autocheck.com.au/ He's VERY thorough. He'll usually call after the inspection and give you the low down - he'll then follow up with a pdf report. I've attached a report from a R33 that he inspected. The guy is very objective with his feedback.

Definitely worth getting an inspection if you're no mechanic yourself. I've used this guy before: http://www.a1autocheck.com.au/ He's VERY thorough. He'll usually call after the inspection and give you the low down - he'll then follow up with a pdf report. I've attached a report from a R33 that he inspected. The guy is very objective with his feedback.

I opened up the afm and the connections were all sound. There looked to be ample solder on them. There was a little corrosion build up around the pins which I cleaned up. Put everything back and it run sweetly - but I fear it's only a matter of time until it happens again

Bitsushiti, I take your engine light didn't come on before you had re-soldered the joints in the AFM? Through my entire ordeal, the engine light has never come on - and always reveals the '55' code when I reset it using the paper clip method.

I did see that, but I had only cleaned the inside... I'll do this this afternoon and see if it helps, Thanks!

Vekra, My problem hasn't occured since last week... I did end up taking it to the mechanic and after we went for a test drive and he plugged in the consult cable nothing was out of the ordinary In the last week, however, my fuel consumption has reduced somewhat drastically (with no change in driving atitude). It was hovering around 13.5L per 100kms but on the current tank it's sitting around 10! I can only wait until it happens again, in which case the mechanic advised to bring the car straight there... Any update on your end bud?

Awesome, cheers bro.

Hi All, As I found this sticker under my hood I figured its OK to post in the general maintenance section. So can anyone tell me what it's telling me? Thanks!

Mate I've got pretty much the exact same problem :s I've cleaned the afm, aac, throttle body, changed the o2 sensor and changed coil packs. I had changed te coil packs due to a misfire. I really should have done the plugs at the same time. My idle is pretty good now but theres a difinite lack of power. Huge flats spots. But it's rather intermittent. I've reset the ecu and it returns no error codes. I'm taking it to a workshop here in Perth on Tuesday. I'm hoping it's something fixable! Will let you know what they find - if they find something :s

Im not expert but from what Ive read, the o2 sensor affects the car at idle and low revs - not at the rev range you're experiencing trouble. If there's popping and smoke (I'm assuming black smoke) then its implying unburnt fuel. And if the problem only exists within a certain range then it's probably not the spark plugs or coil packs. So something is causing a timing problem then? Could be afm? Fuel pump maybe.

Sold!

Yeah I meant to post this is the western Australia section, sorry!

When I picked up a used exhaust, the seller had also given me a Nismo muffler with compatible pipes and silencer. The piping is 3" and there's also a R33 cat which is included in the sale. The muffler is in one piece but it does have a hole as visible in the photos. The silencer also has scrape marks hence the low selling price. I've never used any of the items, but figured I could make a quick dime by selling Cheers, Andre Link to Gumtree add 0402 032 610

I'm currently encountering a similar problem on my R33. Check out this tut. I'll be trying it tomorrow. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/ Also worth rebooting the ECU after you're done.

I believe you only need a HR license to drive a dump truck... which you can get at a number of training places, just google it. But be warned this is an EXTREMELY repetitive job (not that there's anything wrong with that) but driving the same route like 50 times a day would do my head in If you don't mind getting your hands dirty you can work as a trade assistant (abbreviated to TA) for any of the construction companies. TA's get paid more than dump truck drivers, but that's cos they work a lot harder - in the 50deg sun - for longer stints (usually 4 weeks, whereas drivers usually work 2 weeks away with one of those weeks on night shift) Good luck!

Yep, in neutral there was no problem - the problem only occurred when in gear. So I followed your advice and reset the ECU. It return a 55 code (which I read means all is ok) I went for a drive (a hard one) and it seemed to have done the trick. I'll go for a drive tomorrow and i'll rack up plenty of km's over the weekend so here's hoping the problem has been solved! Thanks for all the advice!

Nah mate, I only did the coilpacks as the plugs were changed not that long ago.