Kryostaisis

i have access to a air compressor and the drill does actually seem to be small enough... where can you get the drill to drill out at right angles? i might just invest in one of them ill give it a go tomorro night, im still waiting on the studs and the gasket to come in

no worries, but ive already started, ill take photos from now onwards

ive taken most of them off, ordered a few new studs, 2.25 each, but the gasket is 130bucks!! then only problem i have is that the stud closest to the firewall has been snapped (most likely for quite some time now, as ive been experiencing the boost creep and flatspot for quite some time now), i have no idea how im going to get a drill into that to undo it, anyone have any ideas?

sorry guys, i have been busy interstate, and here and there i will get back to you SkyGTRline in the next few days... regards

ok, ive started to pull off the manifold, i have still left the turbo hanging off teh manifold, was kind of hoping i wouldnt need to remove it, but i guess i have to now that i cant get to the other nuts. just one quick question, i can notice there are dark spots around the manifold, which suggests that there is a leak, at the front end of the manifold(nearest to the headlights) there is a leak, but i think its due to the bolt being very loosely put on, as i could undo it with my fingers. at the back of the manifold, there is a really dark patch of carbon deposit, and the noise did seem to be comming from the bck... my question is, is there supposed to be 12 nuts and studs altogether for the manifold? if so, i think my last stud and nut closest to the firewall has snapped off, god knows how, but how am i supposed to get a new stud? where can you get them from? ill keep everyone posted.. hopefully this will solve my flatspot problem

ive seen a few have that aswell, mines got 297rwkw on stock internals, but ive also seen a few around the 300rwkw mark on a low reading dyno have their pistons crack, under a conservative tune aswell in the end its completely up to the owner of the car, if you are willing to risk your engine blowing then by all means, boost it up and tune it up well. otherwise rebuild your bottom end then work from there most dynos use the shootout mode for power runs, its a common fact, on shootout mode, the dyno will give a higher reading than if they used another mode. simply because of the fact that the correction method used, compensates for heat and other factors more in shootout mode than other modes

any other ideas? im pulling out the manifold tomorrow and hopefully have it back up and runnin by wednesday

hes right, you can get 300rwhp out of a stock turbo, providing you have a good tune and a ECU, liek in his case, a power fc ive seen many skylines make over the 210rwkw mark with just power fc and airfilter, fmic and exhaust. but you have to be careful, some dynos use different correction methods which give higher readings than those of other dynos

as long as you have an intercooler and a good tune, you will be able to run 1.0 bar fine, but your turbo wont last, the stock one wont handle anything above 13psi your stok internals are good for approx 270rwkw with a good tune, some people have even seen past 300rwkw(probably due to a higher reading dyno)

nah the ticking is a leak, im pretty sure about that, although ive been told that my flatspot/power loss problem might be due to my knock sensor being damaged and so it may be retarding the timing... but im not sure if thats the case, im going to fix the leak first and see how i go from there

anyone got any idea on how much manifod gastkets cost? should i use gasket glue aswell as a new gasket? or can i just use the gasket glue on the one i have now?

thanks for the advice, yeah im thinking its a combination of things, but not sure what they are, i will pull apart the manifold and check out the gasket and get back to you guys regards

yeap definately stock

as topic states, i have rough idle, it reves up between 300rpm and 1200rpm up and down, up and down, and eventually it gets back to normal. its been happening for the few days.. i will try cleaning the AFM and throttle tomorrow... but i also noticed a ticking noise from the exhaust manifold, i think it started out as a whistling sign and then in the last few days, its been ticking everytime i rev it anywhere above 1000rpm. ive been told it was a leak on the manifold that makes the ticking noise, but i dont have any ideas the car is also "boost spiking" in a sense that after 4000rpm, there is a flatspot till 5500rpm, at the same time, boost will creep up from .7bar to .9bar and drop back off at 6000rpm to .7 again anyone have any ideas?

ive got the fan and the viscous clutch in good condition, if you want it, pm me and we can organise eveyrthing

i can hear a whistling sound comming from the exhaust housing of the turbo, or near there, all i can think of is the gasket that was used, its the usual t3 flange gasket but its rediculously thin boost comes on and sit at .7 but then climbs like all hell and drops off again, have no power till 6000rpm wtf!! also same thing happening with my mates silvia, but his gets to .9bar and at 4000rpm it slowly drops off to .55bar, and when it starts to drop there is no power any help people?

hey leshy/terminal, ive still got my stock r33 one, if leshy doesnt want to sell his, i will sell mine along with the majority of the pipes, but yeah terminal has first dibs regards

i know this is a stupid question, but can a leak from the turbo flange comming off from the exhaust manifold make your boost play around? got a problem with boost, it climbs from .8bar @4000rpm to .95bar @5000rpm, and then drops off back to .85bar at top end... coudl this be due to a leak? any help would be much appreciated

they arent going to be "dirt" cheap, just at trade prices they have a set of the new model of falken tyres, rrp is about 330, i ordered them in for me at 250 a tyre for the 265/35/18 they get in "dirt" cheap tyres every week, 16 17 18 in wheels, they are about 90 - 120 a tyre depending on size but they dont go any further than 225 in width (these are "retread" as in the steel belt is an old one but everything else[ ie the rubber] is brand new) by the way these tyres grip as f!@K, they are really soft and grip like glue even in the wet from my own experience

this is just to help fellow skyliners out, i have built a good freindship with the guys at quickfit in mitchell, anyone who needs new tyres, let me know as i can get them for pretty much trade prices through these guys, alonf with great service and friendly guys regards

anyone?

100 bucks plus shipping good condition, blades on the fan have been shimmed for intercooler pipe clearance, viscous fan clutch in good condition removed off car as upgraded to thermo fan Location is Canberra

got two, one series 1 and one series 2 pm if iterested

by they way, i can get installation for those who are fortunate enough to be in canberra for $150, (extra if your car doesnt have central locking and you wish for it to be installed)

as the title suggests, i have 4 of these car alarms, my mates ended up giving me the wrong amount of alarms to order, and now i have to get rid of them. I am not a trader, just want to get rid of these as they are just sitting here and i am in desperate need of cash the brand of the alarm is CARSCOP they are coloured wires, two point immobilisor here are the specs of the alarm.. REMOTE START V2 newest version (CCFM 6 highest model) Can output signal to arm / disarm the OEM security system before remote start engine Turbo timer delay function (delay 3 or 6 minutes TURN OFF engine to protect turbo engine) Warming car time is 15 minutes, and it can be delayed by pressing remote to 30-60 minutes Function can be selected by remote Reservation mode to prevent car parking in gear for hand gear car Built in Remote Start Engine Function Built in start signal detection and control circuit Pre-turn on the air conditioner function VH connector make the connecting strong One stage shock sensor Shock sensor by-pass function Emergency disarm and reset Intelligent check and adjust start time, max to 6 times start engine Carrier modulation: FM - FM or AM-FM technology Remote feedback range to transmitter up to 1000-1500m Diamond film glass lens for anti-scratch Extra high light emerald green and blue LCD back light Two-way feedback confirmation, everything is under control Blue super bright LED indicator Engine immobilizer Ignition lock Auto re-arm function, Anti-theft and anti-hijack function 2 transmitter can alarm at the same time Keyless entry , central lock / unlock control car alarm Transmitter control arm disarm auto security system Use AAA 1.5V (No 7 Battery) Alkaline battery Battery life is about 1-2 month Double side PCB, full SMT technology Multi-function programmed remote start engine model Pre-turn on air conditioner , Turbo timer delay function Reservation mode to prevent car parking in gear for hand gear car Package list 1 Main control unit , 2 transmitter, 1 Siren, 1 cut relay, 1 shock sensor, 1 wiring, 1 start relay, 1 LED indicator, 1 manual. price is $250 including express post shipping, can do COD at buyers expense with a $50 deposit.